Brumby Lift Kit first time - Part 2 (with photos)

ashleyn · Post by **ashleyn** » Tue Dec 06, 2011 10:29 pm

So on to the front, same arrangement, jack under the engine crossmember, stands in place.
First undo the rod from the firewall to the engine (under the spare wheel).
Front struts proved a bit of a challenge the first time. Firstly, you are removing the suspension unit, not just the struts. That includes the spring, DO NOT attempt to separate them. Leave the top bolts (inside the engine bay) done up. Remove the clip that holds the brake line into the bracket on the inside of the unit. Grab the top of it with pliers and pull up, it just comes out. Now undo the hose from front caliper and pull it through the mount of the front strut. Temporarily re-attach so the fluid doesn’t leak. Undo the 2 bolts holding the strut body to the brake assembly. Now using special tool called “foot”, lean down on the brake assembly (wheel nuts) and the strut will slide out.

Now undo the top 2 nuts and the whole unit just comes out. Put the front strut top blocks on the front struts, arrows facing in. Make sure the front strut tops with blocks attached go back in the same way they came out (ie don’t spin the struts around 180 degrees). Re-attach the top bolts but you won’t be able to replace the suspension unit just yet.
Undo the steering rod connector (very important).
Now replace all the bolts in the castor rod brackets and front cross member with the lift kit bolts. That way you can lower the engine cross member and gearbox down to the length of the new bolts.
The cross member bolts are fitted to a bracket that has a screw holding it in. I had to drill out the screw to remove the bracket. Then take each bolt out one at a time and install the block and bolt. Repeat for the six gearbox (castor rod brake) block and the engine cross member.

Now fit the brackets, replace the strut using the special tool as before. Undo and redo the brake lines, then bleed the brakes.

Fit the steering extension between the steering column and steering rack, as you tighten the bolts, that should close up so you can fit the locking bolt.
Tighten all bolts to their torque settings, remove the stands and lower the vehicle, all done.
As for the rear, the front brake hoses need to be extended. My air cond compressor was now scraping on one of the hoses so that just needed some adjustment and the gear shift might need some tweaking.

Finished job, looking sweet.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Tue Dec 06, 2011 11:26 pm

ashleyn wrote:

Finished job, looking sweet.

Yes you are!

Jealous!

Cheers

Bennie

guyph_01 · Post by **guyph_01** » Wed Dec 07, 2011 1:57 pm

Cool, Your now ready to join us on the next trip:) and Well done, Your car looks great:)

Any more details on the Ryobi cordless you bought? model price etc? It the only thing i don't have...

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Wed Dec 07, 2011 10:20 pm

Looks good ashleyn. Good idea to post step by step for others to follow plus makes interesting reading lol.

Can i pass on a shortcut i was told about? Instead of disconnecting the brake line which then needs to be bled, use a hacksaw to carefully cut the top of the little tab that holds the brake line to the strut. Then bend it away & you can remove the line without disconnecting it. To replace, just bend the tab back & replace the retaining clip...done!

Thanks to Venom who showed me that...we can now remove both struts, remove the springs, reassemble & replace both struts in 45min

(an unexpected bonus from lots of practice on my troublesome front struts!)

guyph_01 wrote:Cool, Your now ready to join us on the next trip:) and Well done, Your car looks great:)

Any more details on the Ryobi cordless you bought? model price etc? It the only thing i don't have...

+1. Curious bout the Ryobi rattle gun

El_Freddo wrote:Yes you are!

Jealous!

Cheers

Bennie

+1. those tyres look good too...can you give us a close up?

guyph_01 · Post by **guyph_01** » Thu Dec 08, 2011 1:47 am

Is that an EJ brumby?

ashleyn · Post by **ashleyn** » Thu Dec 08, 2011 9:11 am

I wish, standard EA81 with Webber.

Rattle gun is 18v Lithium battery. Model BIW180

Subarubrumbyfan1991 · Post by **Subarubrumbyfan1991** » Thu Dec 08, 2011 4:50 pm

in the photo's yours has the same green stripes as mine, i dont know too much about brumby editions, is this a special edition or just a addon?

ashleyn · Post by **ashleyn** » Thu Dec 08, 2011 8:38 pm

Some of the experts might know, it has the quad headlights which seem a bit unusual.

ashleyn · Post by **ashleyn** » Thu Dec 08, 2011 8:44 pm

They were Khumo 27x8.5x14. Unfortuntely, the guards were going to need some serious mods to fit them even with the lift so I moved them on. I think they are running around Qld now. I'm currently running 195 14's.

sholinguteman · Post by **sholinguteman** » Mon Jan 02, 2012 1:38 am

Bottom line... would you recommend this kit ? have you had it out on the road yet ? like to see a few more pics if possible and oh yes... Happy new year

"MO"

ashleyn · Post by **ashleyn** » Mon Jan 02, 2012 10:02 am

Yes indeed, been driving around for a few months now inc one trip to Bunbury (160km). The only extra thing to consider is extending the brake lines which I've done.

B00sting · Post by **B00sting** » Mon Jan 09, 2012 8:55 pm

Thanks mate, good write up (part 1&2), I'll be using this as a reference when I fit mine.

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Mon Nov 05, 2012 9:46 pm

Are you able to put a picture of the instructions up please? I have a second hand kit without any instructions at all. Planning to put it in this weekend

Cheers Cam

ashleyn · Post by **ashleyn** » Wed Nov 07, 2012 8:36 am

Brumby Kid wrote:Are you able to put a picture of the instructions up please? I have a second hand kit without any instructions at all. Planning to put it in this weekend

Cheers Cam

1. Place car on car stands.
2. Remove front wheels.
3. Undo engine bracket to firewall.
Okay, how do I do it?
Front
4. Undo front brake hoses from front callipers and pull them through the mount of the front strut. Temporarily re-attach. Use pliers to pull the clip upwards, that will free the hose from the bracket at the back of the strut.
5. Remove front struts. Leave the top 2 nuts done up. Undo the 2 at the bottom of the strut. Now the strut should be able to move upwards away from the wheel assembly. That’s enough for now.
6. I lay the lift kit out under the car so you know where everything goes.
7. Place jack under engine cross member and if you have two jacks, put one under the gearbox as well.
8. I then replace all the bolts in the castor rod brackets (3 each side) and front cross member with the lift kit bolts. Trick here as the cross member bolts are attached to a plate on the top of the chassis which in turn has one Phillips head screw holding it on to the chassis. You need to remove the screw, then the bracket can be removed (see picture). You may have to drill out the screw. On the passenger side, the air cond hose is in the way, remove the 10mm bolt that holds the bracket in place and prise the hosing aside to remove the bolt and fit the new one. That way you can lower the engine cross member and gearbox down to the length of the new bolts.
9. Undo the steering rod.
10. Now with all bolts replaced, lower the jack enough to create a 50mm gap at all the bolt points.
11. Put the front strut top blocks on the front struts, arrows facing in. Make sure the front strut tops with blocks attached go back in the same way they came out.
12. Reinstall front struts including brake hoses and bleed brakes.
13. Then take each bolt out one at a time and install the block and bolt. Repeat for the six gearbox (castor rod brake) block and the engine cross member.
14. Tighten all bolts.
15. Steering: for non-power steering use the steering extension provided between the steering column and steering rack.
16. Re-attach engine bracket to firewall.
17. Place front wheels back on and lower vehicle to the ground off the jack.
Rear
1. Place rear of car on car stands
2. Remove rear wheels
3. The same as front except put the jack under rear diff
4. Lay out lift kit blocks under the car
5. Replace the four bolts on the torsion bar and two on the moustache bar (rear diff mount)
6. Shock absorbers – undo the top of the shock absorbers, bolt the brackets provided to the top of the shock absorber and then to the shock absorber mount on the body.
7. Lower rear suspension to length of new bolts – as you did with the front of the car.
8. As per diagram, the driver’s side moustache bar blocks’ bolts are offset as the block fouls on the fuel tank. You may have to bend up the lip of the fuel tank to clear the block.
9. During installing the lift kit it may be easier to release the exhaust from its mounting points along the body to avoid fouling.
10. All bolts should be installed using anti-seize.
11. After all bolts have been tightened, reinstall exhaust mountings.
12. Place rear wheels back on the car and lower the vehicle off the jacks.

Post by **TOONGA** » Thu Nov 21, 2019 9:24 am

bumping for the google bot to find and help people find info on lift kits for brumbys

TOONGA

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Thu Nov 28, 2019 10:42 pm

Is that how it works Toonga?

Shame the pics don’t work - at least not on my phone

Cheers

Bennie

Post by **TOONGA** » Thu Dec 19, 2019 4:53 pm

sadly the images don't work for me either Bennie,

I will say they still work on the Ghost page

TOONGA

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Brumby Lift Kit first time - Part 2 (with photos)

Brumby Lift Kit first time - Part 2 (with photos)

Re: Brumby Lift Kit first time - Part 2 (with photos)

Re: Brumby Lift Kit first time - Part 2 (with photos)

Re: Brumby Lift Kit first time - Part 2 (with photos)