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Posted: Wed Jan 16, 2013 2:16 pm
by Faraim9117
It looked like the lower shaft would fit, but I'm not willing to change my differential from 4.11 to 3.9 even if it would work (I didn't measure anything just eyeballing it). It's amazing how similar the ea and ej transmission look on the inside. Is the EJ transmission stronger than the EA? I know the input shaft on the EA is smalled but having that solid lower shaft makes me think the EA would be stronger. I figured this would be the place to ask if this 4wd conversion was possible and sure enough you guys knew. I'm glad I didn't waste my time trying it.

After making further modification to the Loyale 4wd shifter, I think I might be on the right track. I'm just waiting on some rod ends to make the final adjustment. But what a pain, especially since my welding skills aren't up to par.

Gilles

Posted: Wed Jan 16, 2013 6:44 pm
by AlpineRaven
Faraim9117 wrote:It looked like the lower shaft would fit, but I'm not willing to change my differential from 4.11 to 3.9 even if it would work (I didn't measure anything just eyeballing it). It's amazing how similar the ea and ej transmission look on the inside. Is the EJ transmission stronger than the EA? I know the input shaft on the EA is smalled but having that solid lower shaft makes me think the EA would be stronger. I figured this would be the place to ask if this 4wd conversion was possible and sure enough you guys knew. I'm glad I didn't waste my time trying it.

After making further modification to the Loyale 4wd shifter, I think I might be on the right track. I'm just waiting on some rod ends to make the final adjustment. But what a pain, especially since my welding skills aren't up to par.

Gilles
Is EJ stronger than EA? - I wouldn't think so, I would say it would be about the same. Just that is the difference is the part time 4WD section. Just different design but as far I know that Subaru uses similar design since 1976 or earlier.
Cheers
AP

Posted: Wed Jul 10, 2013 6:45 am
by niterida
discopotato03 wrote:Hokay

Close..Teeth no .... Wide.. Teeth no .

1. 3.545 39/11 ...... Same .
2. 1.947 37/19 ...... 2.111 38/18
3. 1.366 41/30 ...... 1.448 42/29
4. 0.972 35/36 ...... 1.088 37/34
5. 0.780 32/41 ...... 0.871 34/39
Can anyone tell me if the above ratios are for the 3.7 Liberty box.
If not does anyone know the internal gear ratios for a 3.7 Gen 2 Liberty box ?

Posted: Wed Jul 10, 2013 5:09 pm
by jayrod
I want to do this to my Gen 1 wagon, but i have been reading up saying you may be able to get a 98 Outback dual range for a more direct swap? Its not the same 1.59 i believe its 1.4 but better than 1.19.

Is this correct or am i just reading "Guesses"

Posted: Fri Aug 09, 2013 3:26 am
by nepbug
Hey everybody, I'm in the process of getting the transmissions to do this swap, but while thinking of things I came up with a possibility, let me know if you think it's feasible.

First off, I will likely end up with a 1.19:1 reduction box as my starting point.

Now, I was thinking about this ratio and thought that it would be a great streetable tranny around my area. When I get to the steep mountain climbs in Colorado I could just switch it to low and have that extra oomph without having as big of a drop by downshifting. Then I thought, well, what if you were in that gear all the time as hi-range?

So, is it possible to swap the 1.19:1 Lo-range gear to become your high and then put in the 1.59:1 lo-range as your low?

I've got to run some gear calculations and determine what tires size I want to run so I don't know if I'd even want to do it, but I'd like to know if the possibility is there.

Posted: Fri Aug 09, 2013 3:29 am
by nepbug
nepbug wrote:Hey everybody, I'm in the process of getting the transmissions to do this swap, but while thinking of things I came up with a possibility, let me know if you think it's feasible.

First off, I will likely end up with a 1.19:1 reduction box as my starting point.

Now, I was thinking about this ratio and thought that it would be a great streetable tranny around my area. When I get to the steep mountain climbs in Colorado I could just switch it to low and have that extra oomph without having as big of a drop by downshifting. Then I thought, well, what if you were in that gear all the time as hi-range?

So, is it possible to swap the 1.19:1 Lo-range gear to become your high and then put in the 1.59:1 lo-range as your low?

I've got to run some gear calculations and determine what tires size I want to run so I don't know if I'd even want to do it, but I'd like to know if the possibility is there.
Of course this means your low would be a 33% reduction instead of the possible 59%, but if running oversized tires it might be a good possibility.

Overall switching the 4.11 to a 4.44 would probably be another option that could do similar things and retain better reduction ratios.

Posted: Sat Aug 10, 2013 8:08 pm
by El_Freddo
nepbug wrote:is it possible to swap the 1.19:1 Lo-range gear to become your high and then put in the 1.59:1 lo-range as your low?
Simple answer is no. The 1.19:1 low range is in the same place the 1.59:1 low range goes - so it's one or the other!

Swapping diff ratios is the better way to go about it, especially if you're running big tyres. And if you have an EJ gearbox it's pretty easy to do compared to a cut and shut on the pinion shaft in the EA gearboxes.

Cheers

Bennie

Posted: Sat Aug 10, 2013 10:36 pm
by nepbug
El_Freddo wrote:Simple answer is no. The 1.19:1 low range is in the same place the 1.59:1 low range goes - so it's one or the other!

Swapping diff ratios is the better way to go about it, especially if you're running big tyres. And if you have an EJ gearbox it's pretty easy to do compared to a cut and shut on the pinion shaft in the EA gearboxes.

Cheers

Bennie
Thanks, yeah I don't have one to crack open and see for myself yet.

So it sounds like you have to swap the entire dual range portion over, you can't just swap one gear.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

Posted: Sat Sep 28, 2013 6:27 am
by nepbug
Ok guys, I'm dissassembling the EA82 gearbox right now and have run into a question.

How do you remove the cotter in front of the input shaft bearing?
Image

Posted: Sat Sep 28, 2013 12:49 pm
by tambox
Its a two piece unit. Just spread it at either break in the units or gently tap one side outwards at the break.
It just sits there, but is held in place by the cover you have removed.

Posted: Sat Sep 28, 2013 3:09 pm
by nepbug
Ok, that's what I thought, but when it wouldn't budge when I tried to spread it I thought I must have missed something.

I'll try again in the morning, with s little more persuasion if needed now that I know that is the correct course.

Thanks.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 4

Edit:
Yep, I went back and got it out of there with a little gentle persuasion from a hammer and punch.

Posted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 11:37 pm
by Donkeytits1
Just did this modification to a

Gen 1 Liberty GX Wagon
mfg March 1993
3.90 final drive

I can confirm that the only modification necessary was milling of the selector fork; the spline length was OK and the front housing and bearing were also the same; All rotating parts were a direct swap.

There is not much clearance between the diff and the new synchro sleave, about 2mm!! But thats enough

TIP:
Got a 1/4 ball end tool to mill the detent pits, which is quite simple to do by using one of the selector shafts as a mount.
- Hold the shaft straight up in the mill (a rotary table and chuck work well for this)
- Mount the old selector on the shaft and tap in the dowel a little
- Line up the tool with the dentents and measure depth
- Take the old selector off and replace with the new selector
- Mill the detent pits to the correct depth

Transmission works brilliantly. MUCH better than the normal 1.19 ratio!!!

Here's my shifter fork. The detents milled with the method above work flawlessly