EJ Dual Range AWD 1.19:1 Lo range upgrade to 1.59 {56k warning}

[AlpineRaven]

G'day,
Since I am starting this thread for EJ gearboxes only...

My task is to upgrade this useless 1.19:1 low range in 5speed EJ gearboxes that are found behind EJ22 Liberty, also known as Liberty Dual Range boxes. I am planning to take out 1.59:1 ratio gearset from L Series gearboxes and fit it in Liberty's EJ box - It'll be interesting! (Free to comment in here!)

What you need is: Good mechanical knowledge (that you would be able to remember reverse order), 2 gearboxes - donor EA Dual Range from L series and EJ Dual Range box to work on.

Tools Required:
- 10mm ring spanner
- 12mm ring spanner/socket
- 14mm ring spanner/socket
- Circlip pliers fairly big/strong ones (inner and outer)
- Pointy Nose Pliers (to remove pins)
- 6mm nail punch/pin pusher
- Soft Hammer (NOT HARD hammer!!)

NB:
Gen. 1 Liberty has 3.9:1 ratio Dual Range.
Gen. 2 Liberty & Outback has 3.7:1 ratio Dual Range. (don't know about Gen3 etc)

Here is pictures below -

EJ Gearbox Side:


Gearbox Front:


Centre Diff (bottom):


Transfer Case removed - notice 5th Gearset:

After cracking the box up... one side and other side... Notice Dual Range section above the diff..




Main Shafts -
Top one is L series Shaft
Bottom one is EJ AWD Shaft - pretty much identical except first cog differences (that is 1.59 & 1.19 gear set)...



Upto now, I called it a day from what I noticed and learnt tonight, Is that you cant "just swap" the cogs over as they're both in different sizes.... question is can both dual range section be swapped over without disassembling whole shaft to suit... (shown in red box below)


What can I do about using L series dual range selector in EJ box - obviously I need to modify it to fit with ball bearing to stop from getting out of gear? EJ people who have converted in theirs, what have you done and how?

The Input shaft holder are both different between EA and EJ boxes, the EA one is smaller than EJ one, same goes with the bearing behind the imput shaft (I think its 6205?).

Cheers
AP

[PeeJay]

G'day,
Upto now, I called it a day from what I noticed and learnt tonight, Is that you cant "just swap" the cogs over as they're both in different sizes.... question is can both dual range section be swapped over without disassembling whole shaft to suit... (shown in red box below)

If you remove the circlips in front of the low range gears they just slide off the shaft.

What can I do about using L series dual range selector in EJ box - obviously I need to modify it to fit with ball bearing to stop from getting out of gear? EJ people who have converted in theirs, what have you done and how?

I remember someone saying they modified their leaver in the car to have a detent rather than modify the gear selector.

The Input shaft holder are both different between EA and EJ boxes, the EA one is smaller than EJ one, same goes with the bearing behind the imput shaft (I think its 6205?).

If you're lucky you might be able to get a new bearing with the right od and id to fit the EA shaft. When I did my Foz box I ended up using the EJ bearing with a spacer to fit it to the EA shaft.

[AlpineRaven]

If you remove the circlips in front of the low range gears they just slide off the shaft.



I remember someone saying they modified their leaver in the car to have a detent rather than modify the gear selector.



If you're lucky you might be able to get a new bearing with the right od and id to fit the EA shaft. When I did my Foz box I ended up using the EJ bearing with a spacer to fit it to the EA shaft.

Yep, Now I've figured out tonight (5mins ago!) and I'm relieved about that, will work on that tomorrow or Sunday.
Thanks mate
Cheers
AP

[PeeJay]

The only bearing I replaced was the one on the input shaft, only because I couldn't be bothered getting the old one pressed off the shaft. I probably should have replaced the needle bearings as well, but never actually did.

ps. You may want to clear out some pm's - your inbox is full!

[El_Freddo]

Looking good there AP! Don't forget to let us know how difficult (or easy) it is to remove and install the low range gears that mount on the gearbox casing beside the input shaft

Keep up the good work - very useful info!

Also, with taller tyres (27 inch), which 5th gear ratio is best to use and which gearbox do you find it in?

Cheers

Bennie

[AlpineRaven]

Went to garage this morning, pulled apart further:

Left side is Liberty's Dual Range section
Right side is L Series Dual Range section

I need to pull off the bearing off from Liberty's shaft and put on L series shaft (i will get new bearing anyway)

Dual Range selector section differences. (left is Liberty and right is L series)

I'm still working out but its long way at the moment, I need to start fitting the L series dual range onto EJ main shaft then I'll put it back in casing then will work out from there.. Might mill some off on the selector - but again its long way off.

Hoping to do this once the family goes home this afternoon..
Cheers
AP

[AlpineRaven]

Looking good there AP! Don't forget to let us know how difficult (or easy) it is to remove and install the low range gears that mount on the gearbox casing beside the input shaft

Keep up the good work - very useful info!

Also, with taller tyres (27 inch), which 5th gear ratio is best to use and which gearbox do you find it in?

Cheers

Bennie

I'm running 26.5" tyres at the moment, with 3.7 diff & 0.871 5th it revs around 2600 rpm at 100kmh and to what I think its reasonable... But I would be interested to try out 0.825:1 5th gear, I think Turbo's 0.780 or 0.738 is too low for N/A.. Problem is to find 0.825 is pretty slim.. Unless someone tells me if its easy to find?
Cheers
AP

[discopotato03]

I tend to think 2600 at 100 is pretty good , it beats 3200 at 100 .

BTW the tooth counts for the overdrive 5ths is 32/41 for 0.780 and 34/39 for the 0.871 .
If you want the gear tooth counts for the other four ratios (close and wide versions) I can post them if you like .
From what I can tell 5th gears are the rear most set , besides the transfer pair that take drive back up to the rear output shaft .
Something to look out for is how tall 5th gear ratio is in relation to 4th because the taller 5th gets the wider the the gap inbetween becomes .
If you have a heavy vehicle or one thats a bit peaky torque delivery wise sometimes the revs drop too much and the engine struggles to pull 5th below certain road speeds .

I find with my RX L that the short 0.87 5th (3.7 diffs and 185/60/13 rubber) is great for hilly country but a bit buzzy on the expressways .
My sort of fix will be a higher 8.6 CR and VF10 turbo so the slightly higher revs (and exhaust gas throughput) won't choke off an engine that would normally be reving less . If I had the time and money I'd open my box up and fit the taller Turbo L 0.78 5th but for 2-300 revs its hardly worth it when its rarely driven over 100 . Easier to play with tyres when the 16s go on .

Cheers A .

A .

[AlpineRaven]

I tend to think 2600 at 100 is pretty good , it beats 3200 at 100 .

BTW the tooth counts for the overdrive 5ths is 32/41 for 0.780 and 34/39 for the 0.871 .
If you want the gear tooth counts for the other four ratios (close and wide versions) I can post them if you like .
From what I can tell 5th gears are the rear most set , besides the transfer pair that take drive back up to the rear output shaft .
Something to look out for is how tall 5th gear ratio is in relation to 4th because the taller 5th gets the wider the the gap inbetween becomes .
If you have a heavy vehicle or one thats a bit peaky torque delivery wise sometimes the revs drop too much and the engine struggles to pull 5th below certain road speeds .

I find with my RX L that the short 0.87 5th (3.7 diffs and 185/60/13 rubber) is great for hilly country but a bit buzzy on the expressways .
My sort of fix will be a higher 8.6 CR and VF10 turbo so the slightly higher revs (and exhaust gas throughput) won't choke off an engine that would normally be reving less . If I had the time and money I'd open my box up and fit the taller Turbo L 0.78 5th but for 2-300 revs its hardly worth it when its rarely driven over 100 . Easier to play with tyres when the 16s go on .

Cheers A .

A .

Yeah I would be interested the gear ratios as well... I think I'll stick what I have on my gearbox, 80% of the time is highway and i find 5th good for overtaking as well..
Cheers
AP

[discopotato03]

Hokay

Close..Teeth no .... Wide.. Teeth no .

1. 3.545 39/11 ...... Same .
2. 1.947 37/19 ...... 2.111 38/18
3. 1.366 41/30 ...... 1.448 42/29
4. 0.972 35/36 ...... 1.088 37/34
5. 0.780 32/41 ...... 0.871 34/39

I'm out on a limb after L Series and first gen dual range Lib boxes , AFAIK the Turbo RX L box uses the wide main ratios/1.196 LR/3.7 final drive .
AFAIK 1st G DR Lib has close main ratios/1.196 LR/ 3.9 final drive .
2nd G is a grey area for me but I think I did read that the DR ones were close main ratios 1-4 and tall 0.780 5th/1.196 LR/3.7 final drive . Counting the gear teeth in your box will tell for sure .

Back to Factory specs .
Auxilary Transmission gear ratio (Hi/Lo) .

1.196 - 20/22 x 25/19 . Noted Turbo model .
1.592 - 23/14 x 25/19 .

Hmmm , note how one of the two pairs of Hi/Lo gears has the same tooth count ? It would be real interesting to see how the coupling sleeve teeth are fixed to the side of the 1st motion shaft gear (input gear) because if you could interchange them there is a slim chance that you may be able to retain the Lib style shift fork and detent mechanism . No promises but really need to see close up shots of the two input gears where the high/low coupling sleeves (syncro hubs) engage in direct drive (high range) .

In some Nissan gearboxes what I call the dog ring , which has the gears side cone and short external teeth , is pressed onto a spline on the side of the gear . If they can be removed and the smaller Lib one pressed onto the side of the L input gear all you may have to change is that and the double idler gear itself . Its the need to use the L Series Hi/Lo syncro hub and shift fork that makes this conversion awkward in an EJ style trans because as you can see they are bigger/wider at the fork and a different detent mechanism in the back of an EA82 trans case .

Pics please , cheers A .

[El_Freddo]

Left side is Liberty's Dual Range section
Right side is L Series Dual Range section

I need to pull off the bearing off from Liberty's shaft and put on L series shaft (i will get new bearing anyway)

So what was involved in getting these out (the gearing held in the casing - on left and centre of picture)? And that bearing, I'm guessing I'll need the bearing and the casing that's for the input shaft on the front of the gearbox (in bell housing) from the EJ to fit the EA gear... Sounds like this'll be fun. I'm gearing up for my operation this coming saturday

Looking good AP! Will it be together for the 4wd trip after easter? Would be sweet if it is!

Cheers

Bennie

[legacytt]

I have done this mod a couple of times now. 2 main things with the L series Low range selector fork. As it is bigger you need to grind a few mm off the detent setup on the Lib casing. You will also need to shorten the detent spring. I had a detent "plate"welded to the L selector the same as on the Lib one so the detent works correctly. With the gears themselves you just need to remove the DR gearset from the L input shaft and swap it to Lib one. There is one big circlip holding it on. i swapped in the whole front section of the L input shaft as it was the same size as the Lib one. Secondly swap the counter gears into the other half of the case. Hopefully that makes sense. The box works well, I have just rebuilt it as I had it behind a turbo engine for a while and ended up lunching second gear towing a trailer that was a bit too heavy, the car had the power for it just not the strength in the box. I have it behind an EJ22 now in a MY so should be fine there.

[AlpineRaven]

Okay,
Here some updates of the progress upto tonight (work is in the way and slowing me down)
I've machined on the lathe, I took off 4.25mm off and it fits perfectly on the shaft - no problems at all - very happy with the results. (EA has longer splines whereabouts EJ has shorter splines - that section is in the middle where the selector moves up and down for high/low range.. (Big credit/thankyou to PeeJay for the idea - it works.)
Before:


After:


On the EA Selector Fork, I had to weld a small tab & will drill slots tomorrow ((shown next photo after this one) if you don't do that, the gear will pop out anytime.) I used milling machine and took off 2mm and fits perfectly in the box, I didn't really want to machine some casing off as it was complicated and find it lot easier to mill out on the fork. (NB have to use EA selector due EJ's fork is too small for EA gearsets) I'm using EJ's shaft in the selector. (will smooth and clean up tomorrow!)



Picture of EJ & EA's selector - Notice the notches...


Picture of EJ Casing and you can see the ball bearing and where the 4wd selector goes...


Welded a small notch on the side of the selector, its for EJ's casing for 4WD active light on the dash, EA doesnt have that, I think its located in the lever, whereabouts EJ is on the gearbox.


Inlet Shaft Bearing: I had to use half half EA & EJ, the EA's shaft is smaller than EJ's shaft, the housing is bigger than EA's housing. So had to use half bearing into one, so got a new one - the number for new bearing is 63/28/25CC3.... There is 2 circlips on the EA shaft, I used the 2nd one with .50mm spacer fits nicely - you can see in the picture.. Placed in the shaft nicely..



Thats about all, tomorrow will replace bearings on the main shaft & pinion shaft also the Centre diff, then clean everything and re-assemble back in the gearbox.... Cant wait!
Cheers
AP

[El_Freddo]

Welded a small notch on the side of the selector, its for EJ's casing for 4WD active light on the dash, EA doesnt have that, I think its located in the lever, whereabouts EJ is on the gearbox.

Inlet Shaft Bearing: I had to use half half EA & EJ, the EA's shaft is smaller than EJ's shaft, the housing is bigger than EA's housing. So had to use half bearing into one, so got a new one - the number for new bearing is 63/28/25CC3.... There is 2 circlips on the EA shaft, I used the 2nd one with .50mm spacer fits nicely - you can see in the picture.. Placed in the shaft nicely..

Hmmm. Interesting about the inlet shaft bearing - think I'll need one of them and the spacer...

As for the 4wd active light notch you've added to the EA low range selector fork, the EA's do this in the rear of the box where all the balls and springs fall from. Its quite a complicated setup in there from memory.

Nice work on the milling etc, where did you get access to tooling like that? Would love to know how to use these/own a set to use when needed...

Cheers

Bennie

[AlpineRaven]

Hmmm. Interesting about the inlet shaft bearing - think I'll need one of them and the spacer...

As for the 4wd active light notch you've added to the EA low range selector fork, the EA's do this in the rear of the box where all the balls and springs fall from. Its quite a complicated setup in there from memory.

Nice work on the milling etc, where did you get access to tooling like that? Would love to know how to use these/own a set to use when needed...

Cheers

Bennie

About the spacer, you can buy them from large bolt and nut shop, i got mine from work that they had lying arnd.

About the ball bearings what you said above, from what i know, there is one on the main shaft where the lo and high range is, but it doesn't pop anywhere. There is another one with a spring where the dual range selector, again doesn't pop out. That is all i could think of, on EA box has more balls and springs everywhere and it'll be in the transfer case that you'll need to watch out. EJ won't do that.

The EJ box's transfer case has nothing to do with 4WD selector which EA does (has no linkages etc). which is where it becomes more complicated.on EA box.
The 4WD switch is directly above the lo/hi range section where the selector is.

Milling machine, i have a mate where is an engineer and we do it ourselves, its an bonus for me to access to. Lathe - i have one at work that i can use.

You do need new bearing for the inlet shaft, no other way arnd it.
Cheers
AP

[wagonist]

As for the 4wd active light notch you've added to the EA low range selector fork, the EA's do this in the rear of the box where all the balls and springs fall from.

Only the series 2 L boxes have this, the pre 88 ones are in the lever.
Or is that the "LO" switch? I know they're reversed to the MY setup.

[El_Freddo]

Only the series 2 L boxes have this, the pre 88 ones are in the lever.
Or is that the "LO" switch? I know they're reversed to the MY setup.

Did not know that - will check it out this weekend!

Good work AP, I've changed the plans and will do it at home - this will allow for other work, like finding a good EJ22 and being a parts yard slag

Cheers

Bennie

[AlpineRaven]

Hmmm. Interesting about the inlet shaft bearing - think I'll need one of them and the spacer...

As for the 4wd active light notch you've added to the EA low range selector fork, the EA's do this in the rear of the box where all the balls and springs fall from. Its quite a complicated setup in there from memory.

Nice work on the milling etc, where did you get access to tooling like that? Would love to know how to use these/own a set to use when needed...

Cheers

Bennie

Picture of dual range 4WD low switch on the top of the EJ gearbox - see green and black wires coming from it... That is why I had to make a notch to enable the switch.




Cheers
AP

[El_Freddo]

Nice work there AP - interesting the way they did this low range light switch, guess you gotta have it somewhere...

I'm counting sleeps now for the parts gathering of my gearbox 'sub-project' - I say this cos its part of the EJ conversion I'm hoping to complete before Ruby Scoo hits 400k km on her odometre. Its on 393,500 I think

Keep us posted

Cheers

Bennie

[AlpineRaven]

Nice work there AP - interesting the way they did this low range light switch, guess you gotta have it somewhere...

I'm counting sleeps now for the parts gathering of my gearbox 'sub-project' - I say this cos its part of the EJ conversion I'm hoping to complete before Ruby Scoo hits 400k km on her odometre. Its on 393,500 I think

Keep us posted

Cheers

Bennie

Fair enough...
If you need a hand, let me know.
Cheers
AP