sick lx liberty

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Wed Jun 15, 2011 2:05 pm

The other way to get around a set of ramps is to jack the front end, chock the rear so the car won't move, secure with jack stands (if you don't have any then get the ramps...).

Run the engine without the car in gear (obviously). This should create the same effect as a slope

Did the heater work previously?

Cheers

Bennie

Super ruby · Post by **Super ruby** » Wed Jun 15, 2011 2:19 pm

thanks Bennie, i will do just that re ramps...and hey download teamspeak 3, Alex, TOONGA come say hello... once you have i will send you ip and port so you can join..buy a mic if you aint got one already kk...oh and yeah bennie heater worked prevuiosly... jyust a thought what if i undo the water hose that i replaced just above the knock sensor, just enough to bleeb air..hmm what you reckon?

Super ruby · Post by **Super ruby** » Wed Jun 15, 2011 4:05 pm

for something to do went out there and tried again without ramps or angle necessary, just wanted to see syptoms of water in radiator and the water just rises as car heats up! damn i hope its not the heads ! but the heater only blows cold air?... gotta wait till i get ramps i suppose and do it the right wy eh..

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Wed Jun 15, 2011 5:25 pm

Another thing you could have a go at is removing the heater hose from the firewall for the hose that goes down to the thermostat housing, fill this with coolant then re-connect to the heater core, then do the same with the other one.

Then remove top radiator hose as Alex has said and repeat - without the engine running.

Top up the radiator then start the engine and let it run, it will take some time for it to warm up. Squeeze the inlet and outlet hoses from time to time. Coolant will come out the radiator filler, you can tape a coke bottle or the like to the filler to create a seal, have the bottle cut in half so it acts like a funnel. This way you can catch coolant as it tries to escape - it will rise up the inside of the bottle. I've found that when the thermo fans kick in coolant tries to escape, this system will save you from losing coolant and having to use fresh stuff to top up again.

Occasionally a stab of the throttle can help dislodge an air bubble too. Once you can feel the heater hoses warming up you can assume that coolant is circulating around the engine - the radiator will be next to heat up once the thermostat has started to open. I typically let the engine run for two cycles of the thermo fans clicking on, making sure that I can feel heat in the upper radiator hose and at least warmth in the lower hose - this means that you have sufficiently bled the system to let it cool leaving the bottle and any coolant it has in it (it should drop as the system cools), replace radiator cap, check the coolant over flow bottle's level and take it for a drive.

A set of ramps at the very least help out with this process too. Might be time to hit up supercrap for some ramps...

All the best!

Cheers

Bennie

Super ruby · Post by **Super ruby** » Wed Jun 15, 2011 5:44 pm

ok mate, thats a job for tomorrow then.. thanks Bennie

Super ruby · Post by **Super ruby** » Thu Jun 16, 2011 3:40 pm

gents i`ve just about had enough eh.. bought the ramps cost me 39 each apparently you can buy just one! lol i told them thats ingenious marketing

anyway put it on the ramps and spent agood half hour watching the occasional bubble blow out the top of radiator when i accelerated in neautral, had the heater on but nothing( no heat)..filled the heater core as suggested , did everything, no go!... i noticed that there is a little water condensation coming out the exhaust , after about 30-40 min of occasionanal acceleration it left a 4ft shaded inprint of water , put my finger in exhaust , a droplet of cold water there , water was clear with some carbon...also water in radiator wasnt heating up whilst cap off hmmm what else i do/happened, as i accelerated i watchted the water rise from the radiator calmly as it burped one two bubbles every now an then, and when the thermo fans on, water rises also..thats about it...oh and just before i had enough i put the radiator cap on accelerated and within minutes the temp was rising fast...so turned it off ..thanks , any ideas, anyone want a cheap librty..

78sti · Post by **78sti** » Thu Jun 16, 2011 4:37 pm

Seems unlikely but the water pump sounds like it is not doing anything?

maby a broken impella or something?

How long since the cam belt was changed and was the pump changed at the same time?

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Thu Jun 16, 2011 5:10 pm

78sti wrote:Seems unlikely but the water pump sounds like it is not doing anything?

maby a broken impella or something?

How long since the cam belt was changed and was the pump changed at the same time?

My thoughts too.

Pump age and cam belt's last replacement would be an unknown unless he's got receipts or some form of documentation about it...

Might be time to learn a little more about your liberty

Don't sell it just yet, you're on the verge of having a good reliable daily runner! So many people give up at this point that it's depressing that I don't have the money to pickup these sweet deals

Cheers

Bennie

Super ruby · Post by **Super ruby** » Thu Jun 16, 2011 5:55 pm

yeah not gonna give up, not just yet... ok i`ll do the test of pump and check heater core for obstruction tomorrow.. no reciepts 78sti, german backpackers seen me coming eh

Just so that i have idea at what rate should the coolant be pushing out once i take off heater hoses to see how good or if at all pump is working?

Super ruby · Post by **Super ruby** » Fri Jun 17, 2011 7:29 pm

taking a break for the next three days , back to my liberty miseries tuesday , i will keep you all posted .. thanks guys,

Super ruby · Post by **Super ruby** » Fri Jun 17, 2011 7:29 pm

taking a break for the next three days , back to my liberty miseries tuesday , i will keep you all posted .. thanks ..

liberated · Post by **liberated** » Fri Jun 17, 2011 7:42 pm

thermos and and seals sold separately these days.

Super ruby · Post by **Super ruby** » Sat Jun 18, 2011 5:07 pm

Thx liberated , ill keep that in mind . i threw the old one back in, seemed to be working properly during the stove top test... cheers

Post by **TOONGA** » Sat Jun 18, 2011 5:18 pm

Super ruby wrote:Thx liberated , ill keep that in mind . i threw the old one back in, seemed to be working properly during the stove top test... cheers

even if it opens on the stove top doesn't mean it is opening in the engine.

Did it open as the water came to a boil or after the water was boiling?

I have had a brand new thermostat (aftermarket not factory) that opened when it want too and not when it was needed too, it killed an engine.

TOONGA

Super ruby · Post by **Super ruby** » Sat Jun 18, 2011 5:49 pm

thermo was well on its way before boiling point , that dont really make sense , more specifically opened before water was boiling its head off .. thanks TOONGA
a question; when i get round to testing water pump flow , how fast should it be pushing water. From memory when i removed water hose above knock senor when motor was running just to have a qik look at flow i would assume it would fill a litre bottle in about 3 min therebouts .. sorry for the clayton figures , will check properly next week,when i try clear heater core i will run motor and see how quick water pushes out ... thx

Super ruby · Post by **Super ruby** » Tue Jun 21, 2011 10:34 pm

update delayed due to inclement L series weather .. possibly tomorrow if iam brave enough , ill keep you updated... thx

Super ruby · Post by **Super ruby** » Wed Jun 22, 2011 4:47 pm

ok , firstly i undid the heater core hoses , poured water into one end came out the other, so heater core fine. Then started the engine with heater hoses off and watched water pump out so the water pump fine. connected heater core hoses started her up radiator cap off. idled for 40 minutes water luke warm bubbles appear at filler cap of radiator intermittently, heater in the car on full no heat blowing just cold air. put the radiator cap on and accelerated , the temp started to rise quickly so turned engine off before it got to hot and de pressurised the radiator cap very carefully so as not to end up in emergency, when it depressurised i removed cap all together and noticed it sucking the water back into engine! so it would be fare to say head gasket eh, but why when the motor was heating up with radiator cap on there was still no hot air coming from heater? thanks...and hey bennie do you recommend anyone in bendigo re doing head gasket assuming it is the head gasket, dunno suggestions welcome ..and thanks again ..

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Thu Jun 23, 2011 12:30 am

I don't really know of mechanics in bendigo - I do all of my own stuff.

When you say that the temp rises quickly how far up the gauge do you let it go before you shut it off? I would say that half way or a little more is where it usually sits.

The sucking of water back into the radiator can be the cooling of the system that is also replacing the air that has been removed previously. As already said its going to take a good run on the street to completely bleed the system after you've done the initial bleed on the ramps.

I wouldn't be so quick to rule a head gasket - my EJ has little bubbles appear for quite some time before I smash the radiator cap on and go for a drive. I've had my EJ up to 120 degrees pushing hard in the sand and had the entire cooling system frozen due to lack of anti freeze (I had replaced the coolant for the snow but didn't realise it wasn't an anti freeze

all turned out well though). I've (touch wood as the saying goes) not had a head gasket issue yet.

When the water in the radiator is luke warm what was the temp gauge on? And did you run it until the thermo's came on at least once? That could take some time with the cold weather we've had...

And how long did you wait until "depressurising" the cooling system - straight after shut down or once cool/cold? If straight after shut down I would expect some coolant to push into the overflow bottle or out around the cap - if cool/cold I would expect some suck back into the radiator.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Bennie

Super ruby · Post by **Super ruby** » Thu Jun 23, 2011 4:49 am

ruddy ell, i was that convinced it was a head gasket bennie, so much for closure eh, ok the Q & A's

Q: When you say that the temp rises quickly how far up the gauge do you let it go before you shut it off? I would say that half way or a little more is where it usually sits.

A: The temp rises to the point of melt down but only when i accelerate with cap on, with cap off it just blows a few bubbles every push. i have let it get to critical and shut it off , my latest attempt i shut it off when it was hot real hot but at a point i was game enough to tackle the radiator cap with a towel..

Q:When the water in the radiator is luke warm what was the temp gauge on? And did you run it until the thermo's came on at least once? That could take some time with the cold weather we've had...

A:When the water is luke warm the temp gauge is normal , which is a mm below the first mark as it has been since the day i picked the car up and drove it for a week or so before the drama began. Thanks to all the feedback its all clear on how this began..On the night of the so called drama the water hose above the knock sensor was leaking( thanksyou Alex and his sis for that insight ). as i drove the water level was obviously down and engine overheating , it got to the point where the hose let go and coolant everywhere, i didnt notice being the bright spark that iam until the liberty started bunny hopping and loosing power and for an instance plenty of smoke came out the rear end, the timing was all over the place, then it stabilised enough to get me back, about a k away.. i crawled home and got straight into the forum

.. i didnt notice thermo`s come on this latest time cause to the touch the water was cool almost cold for 20-30 min or so, it wasnt until i put the cap on and accelerated for about 40 seconds that i could see the temp gauge just keep rising, and i mean quickly rising . Altho the previouse 2 times i tried to bleed the air the thermo`s did come on several times while radiator cap was off..

Q:And how long did you wait until "depressurising" the cooling system - straight after shut down or once cool/cold? If straight after shut down I would expect some coolant to push into the overflow bottle or out around the cap - if cool/cold I would expect some suck back into the radiator.

A:I depressurised cooling sys immediately after turning engine off , as i say this time i didnt wait for it to get to extreme temps as i had allowed it to previously, tho i did allow it to get ruddy hot , to the point where the radiator was above its comfort zone . yes on undoing the cap with a big towel the coolant flowed out around the cap soi let it do its thing for 30 seconds then took cap completely off, it is then the draw sucked water back into engine, the water being steaming hot..

sorry its all so long winded , heading off to melbourne in 20 min.. i hope its all a little clearer , thanks bennie , enjoy your holiday and drop in on the way back

i should be back to give it a forth try later this arvo..

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Thu Jun 23, 2011 2:51 pm

Easiest way to rule out a head gasket is to have a mechanic do a compression test on the cooling system or get a tool that does it for you (I have no idea where to look - maybe super crap or r.e.p.c.o could be good to start with.

Other things without seeing the car myself is that your temp gauge could be dodgy, or the fact that it started surging etc could = a head gasket due to the heat the engine was exposed to.

Another question, what level was the coolant at when you checked it a day or so after your bleeding of the system? It might take a couple of top ups after warming up/cooling off etc to get the coolant to stay where it should be - having the overflow bottle full will also help during cool down with replacing coolant in the system.

Cheers

Bennie

The AUSubaru.com.au Forums

sick lx liberty

hmm

verdict