Bianca Engine Work

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sat Jan 28, 2012 10:41 am

Silverbullet wrote:Only takes 2 people to lift normally off the ground but I'm trying to figure out how they lifted it out of the engine bay...blood sweat and tears?

phantomD wrote:They're not really that heavy! I can safely lift a complete EA81 onto the back of a Brumby without any trouble.

I've lifted my old EA82 out with three blokes before. While it's easy to move the engine around with one or two - once you're leaning forward trying to drop the weight IN the engine bay it's not so easy. Doing it with one onto the back of the brumby is simple, you're still up high and you've got plenty of space to play with

I think I'm not far off from this task either Brumby Kid. I question I'm asking is: Should we do a full rebuild or just the HG's?

How many k's has this engine got on it?

Cheers

Bennie

Green_eyed_liberty · Post by **Green_eyed_liberty** » Sat Jan 28, 2012 11:26 am

is this a common problem with the head gasket blowing and mixing water and oil? mine has just done the same this with that creamy crap coming up into the airfilter box.

mine was the passanger side, and still waiting to get the heads back from being machined

Backyard_Brumby · Post by **Backyard_Brumby** » Sat Jan 28, 2012 1:40 pm

Yeah we just put the lot back into the our brumby project. My old man and I are not small lads by any means and we could lift the engine easily but attempted to put it back in and you just end up wasting time and needing to have a few extra beers to dull the pain in your back from leaning over. We just got a block and tackle off a boxing/chin up stand and it just meant we could line it up nice and easily without scratching paint.

d_generate · Post by **d_generate** » Sat Jan 28, 2012 4:40 pm

Hire an engine crane for the day when it goes back in.....much cheaper than back surgery.

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Sat Jan 28, 2012 6:25 pm

Yep, thats what we are thinking d_generate.
295,000 Km Bennie, I hopr to see it go another 300,000 at least.
With 4WD ing, and Roadtrips, inc.
So far i have...
VRS Kit
Welch Plugs (Brass)
Leads
Spark Plugs
Sump is off.
Coil coming

Think thats it.
I really dont want to split the block.
What do you guys think?

EDIT: I pretty much want a bloody solid, reliable EA81 that will go offroad for me aswell as do long country roadtrips. (Am I asking too much?)

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Sat Jan 28, 2012 6:41 pm

Engine Blow By/Back. Is this where you can feel air coming out of the air cox instead of sucking?
What can you do? Coz iz I have to split the block for that im gonna be pissed.

Cheers Cam

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Sat Jan 28, 2012 7:38 pm

I believe blow-by is where combustion gas is escaping past the piston rings into the crank case. I dunno if you'd feel it blowing out through the air cleaner since I've never experienced it but if you do have it you'd need new rings and a cylinder hone so yes splitting the block would be necessary. Don't worry it's not that hard

While you had the engine running did you do a comp test? I think I've heard somewhere you can do a comp test dry first, then put a squirt of oil or two down the spark plug hole and do it again and if the pressure rises after the oil then the rings are worn. The squirt of oil seals the rings slightly for a few revolutions giving you a higher reading.

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Sat Jan 28, 2012 7:39 pm

Nah, didn't get a comp test.

revmax · Post by **revmax** » Sat Jan 28, 2012 8:35 pm

Rings can be fitted without spliting the block but a better job of honing the bores can be done if you do split the block. But it can be honed with the block still intact, just a little more care is required. Would I split the block on this engine. No ! but I would waste no time getting it backtogether to run fresh oil through it.

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Sat Jan 28, 2012 8:54 pm

Please eleberate revmax. Especially on how to...

Cam

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Sat Jan 28, 2012 9:50 pm

revmax wrote:Rings can be fitted without spliting the block but a better job of honing the bores can be done if you do split the block. But it can be honed with the block still intact, just a little more care is required.

Yeah revmax do tell

I've remembered you take the pistons out before splitting the block so you could change the rings, but if you left it intact while you honed it surely the connecting rods would get in the way? and all the honing fluid/metal dust would get into the crank assembly?

revmax · Post by **revmax** » Sun Jan 29, 2012 6:31 am

I haven't done it but put plenty of thought into it if I ever had to.
With pistons removed rotate the crank so the selected cyl's rod is at the bottom.
Cut a circle of say 1/2" thick high density foam with a slot 2/3 of the way through it as far down in the cyl as possible. This foam will support the rod and keep it central and stop debree from going to far down. Plug the little end of the rod with a nicley cut piece of the same foam

The engine stand can be rotated so honing debree will flow out the cyl.
Then just get a 3 stone hone some kero (use a hand pump style squirty bottle, ya dont need much) and give the bore a lickin, just be carefull how far you go down. (or up cause the cyl you are honing is on a doward incline remember)
get some good clean rags with some solvent and wipe the bore clean, then go on to the next cyl.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun Jan 29, 2012 7:59 am

Not much more effort to split the block, I'd be goin' the whole hog. MAN! Some hot dyno shop crowd had a young guys awd Mitsu GSR Lancer in their sho for some work - the invoice stated they honed the bores, no new rings or nuffin', honed the bores above the pistons - ran like poo after - poor rings. Same shop had a good rep until they did timing belts on a twin turbo import, commented on the car and engine is all very good condition. 100km later there is suddenly no water in the engine, on the way to an interstate funeral she stops , dead - boat anchor material. Thought is the cooling system was not bled of air - workshop taken to court and lost against them

two strikes !!

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Sun Jan 29, 2012 8:22 am

Yeah ok,
How would you get the pistons out?
Splitting the block sounds easier.
What are the cons of doing so? Im looking at Sam in particular.
Now is there a way to test for the piston rings, as i know it could also have been the head gasket, or an impropely seated valve, or valve seal thingy.
Thoughts Please.

Cheers Cam

revmax · Post by **revmax** » Sun Jan 29, 2012 9:00 am

think you blokes have missed the point

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Sun Jan 29, 2012 12:05 pm

d_generate wrote:Hire an engine crane for the day when it goes back in.....much cheaper than back surgery.

Slightly less painful too

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Sun Jan 29, 2012 1:15 pm

Cam to get the pistons out you need to pull the gudgeon pins out through 4 access holes in the block. To do this you need a slide hammer and a hex shaped wrench for your ratchet handle (for the two front access holes) You can see the holes at the back when you take the bell housing plate off. You can see one of the front hole plugs already exposed, the other is under the water pump (bad bad place to put a steel plug

) Rotate the engine until gudgeon pin is visible, use needle nosed pliers to pull the circlip out, use your slider hammer to pull the pin out (they can be bloody difficult to remove) With the slider hammer end you need a long bolt with a step at the end to hook over the end of the gudgeon pin...kinda hard to explain.

Actually...seeing as I've done this before and took some pics why don't you have a look at my old thread so you can see what's inside yours before you take it apart

showthread.php?t=19634&highlight=EA81+rebuild

Cons? err...you could be doing all this when there's nothing wrong (like I did

) You have to put it back together again (correct and CLEAN...like I didn't

) unless you get some place to do it for you, would cost a bit though.

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Mon Jan 30, 2012 7:55 pm

Ok, thanks.
Is there anyway to test to see if there is anything wrong?
So i don't end up like Sam?
Engine crane $40 a day, DONE, I was stoked.
What point are you refering to revmax?

Cheers Cam

revmax · Post by **revmax** » Tue Jan 31, 2012 5:06 am

The engine has done a head gasket not a big end bearing.

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Tue Jan 31, 2012 7:21 pm

revmax wrote:The engine has done a head gasket not a big end bearing.

Mmmm & so you are saying i don't need to bother with this?
Apart from gasket issue.
I do have some blow back.
Possible causes...
Head gasket
Valve issue
piston rings
How can i tell which it might be without putting it back together and taking it apart again?
I would like to fix that to get better compression and performance.

Cheers Cam