EJ Dual Range AWD 1.19:1 Lo range upgrade to 1.59 {56k warning}

kiwi_subaru · Post by **kiwi_subaru** » Sun Apr 26, 2009 7:15 pm

any one know what ratio the my gearbox low range is? is it same as L series? 1.59

AlpineRaven · Post by **AlpineRaven** » Sun Apr 26, 2009 7:34 pm

If its EA82 dual range gearbox non turbo its 1.59:1. If its Turbo box its 1.19:1 I think? Can someone confirm?
Cheers
AP

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Fri May 01, 2009 9:58 pm

AlpineRaven wrote:If its EA82 dual range gearbox non turbo its 1.59:1. If its Turbo box its 1.19:1 I think? Can someone confirm?

Sounds right to me. The EJ series Subarus - Liberty onwards - also share the same low ratio as that of the L series turbo boxes...

Cheers

Bennie

AlpineRaven · Post by **AlpineRaven** » Tue Nov 10, 2009 6:57 pm

Ok, new update.. I'm doing up another 1.59:1 low range conversion for EJ box with EA low range.
This time I've picked Gen 1 1991 Liberty box because this bloke wants 3.9 final drive which this gearbox has.
Opened it up, and changed as normal progress like what I did in this post.
One thing that I learned which makes life easier is this (its a High/Low synchronizer hub) -

YOU do not need to machine it if you are going to use Gen 1 Liberty's main shaft as the measurements are the same as EA box.

Whereabouts Gen 2 gearboxes onwards you do need to machine the High/low synchronizer hub like what I've shown above. Here is a picture of un-machined High/low synchronizer hub.

So in theory - I believe it would be approx 15% stronger if you used Gen 1 Liberty gearbox instead of using Gen 2 Liberty/onwards gearboxes.
SO if you are planning to convert the gearboxes I strongly recommend Gen 1 box and you can change final drive ratios & 5th gear ratios etc...

Cheers
AP

dibs · Post by **dibs** » Tue Apr 20, 2010 5:44 pm

so hows the box going you still smiling????????????????????

dibs

PeeJay · Post by **PeeJay** » Tue Apr 20, 2010 6:03 pm

Mine is still going fine. Just installing an electronic boost controller to run 15psi so we'll see how it goes now

AlpineRaven · Post by **AlpineRaven** » Tue Apr 20, 2010 10:13 pm

dibs wrote:so hows the box going you still smiling????????????????????

dibs

Yep mate it is still good...
On other day about 4 weeks ago, I had to pull up an Commodore on a car trailer on my mates farm where he couldn't pull it up with his Rodeo (would loose traction on grass) so I wacked in low range and pulled it up - works like a treat - he was gobsmacked..
Cheers
AP

dibs · Post by **dibs** » Tue May 04, 2010 7:13 am

thanks m8 i got a forry box now need a doner box and get to it

dibs

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Tue May 04, 2010 1:25 pm

Hey AP..

I have a 8 bolt Outback gearbox (99 model) here that has bearing problems and wish to pull apart at some stage.. Do you think the EA D/R internals will fit?

Cheers,
Paul

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Tue May 04, 2010 9:46 pm

RSR 555 wrote:I have a 8 bolt Outback gearbox (99 model) here that has bearing problems and wish to pull apart at some stage.. Do you think the EA D/R internals will fit?

Paul I'm pretty sure the internal layout is still the same, just the number of bolts to mount the engine have changed.

If it's a 4.11 or 4.44 diff ratio, to fit the L low range you'll have to shave some meat from the crown wheel. I'm not sure which section needs to be removed as I've not done it or seen it done myself. Peejay will be able to elaborate more I'm sure.

Cheers

Bennie

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Wed May 05, 2010 12:07 am

El_Freddo wrote:Paul I'm pretty sure the internal layout is still the same, just the number of bolts to mount the engine have changed.

If it's a 4.11 or 4.44 diff ratio, to fit the L low range you'll have to shave some meat from the crown wheel. I'm not sure which section needs to be removed as I've not done it or seen it done myself. Peejay will be able to elaborate more I'm sure.

Cheers

Bennie

I really hope so.. as for the ratio, I'll grab the number off the box and see. I remember building a 4.4 many years ago and have to skim some of the crown wheel were it bolted to the diff centre flange.. Thanks bud

s3gti · Post by **s3gti** » Mon Jan 30, 2012 12:18 pm

Just curious, is it a certain type of EA D/R box needed to be used as a donor? I bought 2 EA D/R boxes to use on my 2 liberty boxes. The shaft that the 2 dual range counter gears sit on is thinner in diameter than the shaft from my EJ box. I was so hyped to be able to test it in the mud, but now I can't do it & need to buy another 2 gearboxes. Doh.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Mon Jan 30, 2012 7:58 pm

s3gti wrote:Just curious, is it a certain type of EA D/R box needed to be used as a donor? I bought 2 EA D/R boxes to use on my 2 liberty boxes. The shaft that the 2 dual range counter gears sit on is thinner in diameter than the shaft from my EJ box. I was so hyped to be able to test it in the mud, but now I can't do it & need to buy another 2 gearboxes. Doh.

G'day s3gti, welcome to the forum!

What year is your EJ gearbox from? And the EA boxes? I've not heard of this happening before.

Have a read in the Subaru Chat part of the forum on how to host images and drop a couple in here to show us what you're talking about exactly

I'm sure we'll nut it out without the need of another set of gearboxes.

Cheers

Bennie

s3gti · Post by **s3gti** » Mon Jan 30, 2012 9:33 pm

Lets see if I can do this right, these images should be able to tell the story.

These are hopefully the gears in question. It worked.

These are the 2 sets of low range gears. the liberty is on the right- with the writing on it.

The two shafts side by side

& an end-on pic showing the different diameters.

The liberty gearbox is out of a 91 liberty & the other box is an ea series dual range box. Perhaps it is out of an 1800 wagon, or brumby. I know that it has a final drive of 3.7:1, & that now I have 2 of them in pieces.

Post by **TOONGA** » Mon Jan 30, 2012 10:46 pm

You ned to get an L series 5 speed box and use the low range gears out of that. the brumby/ wagon /MY series gearset will not work.

TOONGA

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Tue Jan 31, 2012 4:32 pm

TOONGA wrote:You ned to get an L series 5 speed box and use the low range gears out of that. the brumby/ wagon /MY series gearset will not work.

Good point Toonga!

s3gti, the gearboxes you've got for the swap - are they a 4 speed or a 5 speed? Got pics of the gearbox casings? I should be able to let you know if it's 4spd or 5spd by the casings if you don't have one that's still together

Cheers

Bennie

s3gti · Post by **s3gti** » Fri Feb 03, 2012 8:17 pm

Pretty sure they are a 5 speed box, same number of cogs as the liberty box. I think it may be like toonga says, the boxes are probably from an 1800 wagon, or brumby. I wish I knew that before I bought the bloody things. Oh well, s#@t happens. thanks for your help.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Fri Feb 03, 2012 8:38 pm

s3gti wrote:Pretty sure they are a 5 speed box, same number of cogs as the liberty box. I think it may be like toonga says, the boxes are probably from an 1800 wagon, or brumby. I wish I knew that before I bought the bloody things. Oh well, s#@t happens. thanks for your help.

Here's the problem - the MY or brumbys only came out with a 4 speed gearbox in high and low range 4wd...

Can you load us up a couple of images of these gearboxes? And if you've got them split a shot like this would help:

I hope you're not giving up on this!

Cheers

Bennie

fårwildrajv · Post by **fårwildrajv** » Fri Aug 03, 2012 5:19 am

Hello!
you seem to be good at subaru gearbox.
I have a question...
is there a needle bearing on the inputshaft between the HI and LOW speed?

Im sorry if my English is bad and some word get wrong... I live in sweden

My problem is a bearing noise when i drive in HI but not in LOW so my guess is a bearing between the HI and LOW.

Thanks!

wagonist · Post by **wagonist** » Fri Aug 03, 2012 5:40 pm

To the best of my knowledge, the bearings supporting the input shaft are the big wide thing to the right, and the thin one in the wall of the casing behind the diff.
When the synchro is engaged, it locks the 2 pieces of the shaft together.
However, when the synchro is the other way, the load goes via the side shaft via the gears which is hidden behind in that pic.
That short shaft is on bearings also, so that might be the problem area.

Anyone disagree?