It finally happened - timing belt EA82

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Sun May 20, 2012 11:18 am

Water pump is a Tru-flow brand from Auto 1, part number TF3033.
I have never heard of them so I cant vouch for it. See how it goes.

Re the sealant for the water pump 0-ring pipework. I just bought from Auto 1 a tube of Loctite 596 which is a Hi-Temp, red, RTV silicon gasket maker, remains flexible and is pressure resistant.
It is not recommended for use on head gaskets or parts in contact with gasoline.
It is listed as being sensor safe and good from -60 to +316 deg C.
Odd thing is in the fine print on the back is says "not for use on sensor equipped vehicles" yet it says sensor safe on the front. ?
Anyway, I dont expect this will cause me any problems so I will give this a go too.

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Sun May 20, 2012 12:49 pm

Any secrets to getting the LR and RH crankshaft pulley off ?

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Sun May 20, 2012 12:52 pm

Sorry, that should have read

Any secrets to getting the LR and RH crankshaft sprockets off ?

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Sun May 20, 2012 1:25 pm

Doesnt matter, the front one was a bit tight but they are now both off.

The crankshaft seal is now out too. There are 2 more seals in the Dayco kit which I am guessing are for the cam shafts. Will look into this next and then pull the oil pump off.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun May 20, 2012 7:46 pm

pump most likely got made in japan and GMB on it anyway just well packaged with the seal

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Mon May 21, 2012 11:49 am

steptoe wrote:pump most likely got made in japan and GMB on it anyway just well packaged with the seal

Correct, the pump has written on it -

GMB
JAPAN
SU13

Which is exactly what the pump I took off has on it too.

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Mon May 21, 2012 11:51 am

Any suggestions with product/brand/type of sealant/thread lock for secuting the crankshaft pulley bolt ?
If any is used that is.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Mon May 21, 2012 5:11 pm

All I have done in the past is nothing on the thread, silicone under the flat washer of the bolt head and tighten her up as much as you can.

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Mon May 21, 2012 5:24 pm

Torque specs say 89 to 107 newton metres.
Any point in putting the car into low range 4WD, in gear, and trying to tighten it.

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Wed May 23, 2012 8:17 pm

Well, the job is done.
Car is running and the RH (drivers side) lifters are like a sledge hammer untill revs are applied and at least one shuts up till idle and it is noisy again. Need some more Nulon lifter free I think.
I got the crank pulley to at least 107 newton metres (max spec from the manual) so I am happey with this and I added some Loctite 243 medium thread locker good for bolts up to 36mm (physical crank pulley bolt diameter is 14mm)
There is no oil leaking (there's a first) and no leaks at all, I will now try to put a timing light onto it and see how I go.

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Wed May 23, 2012 8:30 pm

Me again.
How/where do you connect a timing light up to an L series.
With the MY I go straight off the - and + on the coil but with the electronic dist nothing is very plain to see.

FROG · Post by **FROG** » Wed May 23, 2012 9:06 pm

positive and negative to battery and inducer to number one lead

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Wed May 23, 2012 9:24 pm

Well dont I feel like a complete twat.
I meant to ask how do I connect a test tacho to an L series.(I know, nothing like what I was asking before)

NOTE - Thanks to Frog for all his usual/accurate help with the oil pump seals and timing belt kit.
No way I would have been confident to have bought spares without you.

P.S. the car has now after a couple of stops/rest/starts quietened down a fair bit.
Still needs a bottle of lifter quitet.
Its going to work with me tomorrow and I need to go to bed.zzzzzzzzzzz