EA81 odd smoker?

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Sun Oct 07, 2012 7:02 pm

Arh ok. Thanks for that info. What I will probably do is just do all the valve seats, seals and guides. By the looks of things she was running pretty poor on one cylinder. Also, what does a brownish exaust valve mean? lean? Oil?. The cylinder with the bad section of hg was nice and shiny

.

Regards

Doug

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Sun Oct 07, 2012 7:29 pm

Here you go fella's

Doug

Post by **TOONGA** » Sun Oct 07, 2012 7:47 pm

I must ask what did you have your timing set at?

What was the other headgasket like?

you have gotten this far pull the engine out strip it down and rebuild it.

TOONGA

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Sun Oct 07, 2012 8:16 pm

Wherever it stopped after I ran it last? why? Is there something Im missing?

Yeah Its tempting. Il sleep on it I think. The other headgasket looked Ok. Not burnt through at all. All the head nuts felt a bit loose IMO. I thought they would be a bit tighter. All threads felt good too, no threads pulled out of the ali. Someone has had this engine apart before me.

Regards

Doug

Post by **TOONGA** » Sun Oct 07, 2012 8:27 pm

sorry Doug I meant to say engine timing, not where it is now. (6 degrees BTC etc) just a little curious.

TOONGA

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Sun Oct 07, 2012 8:43 pm

Arh ok. Running at around 11-12 BTDC at 1000rpm. Advances to 30-32.

Post by **TOONGA** » Sun Oct 07, 2012 9:16 pm

I would rebuild it, as I was thinking that the burn and speckles on that headgasket looked like pre-detonation.

TOONGA

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Sun Oct 07, 2012 9:32 pm

hmm. I didnt think she was detonating. Remember the engine compression is down at 120psi....and I only run BP ultimate in it.

Im thinking a rebuild is the way to go though. Il regret it if I dont. Know of anywhere in AUS I can get some pistons and rings?

Think it would be worth splitting the crank and having a bow peep at the bearings in there too? 345k on the clock.....

Regards

Doug

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun Oct 07, 2012 10:16 pm

if you can afford to pull it down, get the crank checked, maybe linished and do it right. All the bits are available and maybe just an ebay away - even in the US with one week delivery fedex , get OS pistons for the shop to measure before you machine things. Only your wallet will regret it for a while esp if you plan to keep it for a few years.

Just read in the for sale section 92 Brumby $2500 and the tale on only did the heads ....

Post by **TOONGA** » Sun Oct 07, 2012 10:24 pm

Standard size EA81 pistons and rings

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-BRAT-82- ... 20bad70cdd

20 thou oversize

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-BRAT-82- ... 20bad7106c

main bearings

http://www.ebay.com/itm/6796M-50MM-MAIN ... df&vxp=mtr

bearings rings and pistons

or a complete kit

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-H-4-109- ... c9&vxp=mtr

TOONGA

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Sun Oct 07, 2012 10:45 pm

Steptoe, I donno mate, Ive been tossing this about for the last week. Do I keep the old car, get rid of it, fix it, drive it till it dies. The $3k minimum trade-in at John Hughes was pretty tempting. I like the old car, its nice to not have to look at plastic when I open the hood

. I also dont mind bashing it out in farms as much.

Thanks for the links TOONGA, I had looked on Ebay already and knew they were avaliable in the states. Only curious if there was anywhere in AUS that had them. I was planning on reassembling it next weekend after a fresh sandblast but now it may be a while longer. If Im gonna go the bottom end Il also get all new valves as well. Arh well, Its a full rebuild then.

My Boss has a good saying, "no body is prepared to do it properly but they are prepared to do it twice". I might just follow that.

Il see how I go tomorrow arvo and Im bound to have some questions.

Regards

Doug

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun Oct 07, 2012 10:48 pm

all this from the guy that find (almost*) anything on the 'net.

Good results and fast Jules !

* refering to licking dog

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Sun Oct 07, 2012 10:52 pm

Silverbullet wrote: What does UAS stand for?

Sorry mate, missed your question. Unmanned aerial system. UAV's. Remote piloted vehicles. Whatever you like to call it. I use it for aerial videography and photography

Example;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N0xYjSrL3P0

Regards

Doug

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Mon Oct 08, 2012 8:21 am

Far out ! That was cool Doug

If it's not a keeper, you could try the cheaper method in the suck it and see approach. A mate did it a lot with customers cars that he bought off them when they were not prepared to do it once, do it right. He'd buy, do the bodgy and sell the cars on keeping up a good relationship with new owners for some time

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Mon Oct 08, 2012 9:19 am

Cheers mate, just another hobby. Yeah I think I pretty much decided to keep the car the moment I cracked the first bolt free. Now I think, for a little extra money, Il grab some new pistons, rings, bearings and seals and whatever else looks like crap in there, put it back together and have a pretty decent car for the next 100k. I also like the idea of knowing exactly what condition the motor is in. So tonight Il pull out the motor and start ordering stuff. I cannot feel any ring ridges in the bores so I might get lucky with just a light hone. If not Il stick it in the mill and oversize it.

Regards

Doug

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Mon Oct 08, 2012 12:31 pm

Been consulting with my engine expert

. New plan. Going to strip down the heads and valves first and inspect the seats and valves. Looking at some notes I scribbled down while diagnosing the fault, i see that the cylinder with the highest compression was the one with the blown hg at about 125psi, the other 3 at the 118-120psi mark. My theory is that the water in the cylinder has cleaned the valves. I'd prefer to clean up the heads and valves first before diving in further as well and this seems as good excuse as any. That way they are 95% preped to just go back on.

Doug

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Mon Oct 08, 2012 4:40 pm

Subydoug wrote:Sorry mate, missed your question. Unmanned aerial system. UAV's. Remote piloted vehicles. Whatever you like to call it. I use it for aerial videography and photography

Ahh, I suspected as much

Very nice, I'm into just normal radio controlled planes but I know a few people who do FPV as well. Do you have a video feed back to a ground station or do you fly staying within line of sight? Or autopilot? Video quality looks a bit better than a GoPro too

Thread de-rail over

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Mon Oct 08, 2012 5:20 pm

Yeah, used to be autonomous. I used the paparazzi gear in that plane actually. Then yeah, fpv came into the scene and it became easier to get good footage. I dont think Ive done full autonomous for about a year now. As far as thread de-railment goes, the subie makes a great crash recovery vehicle

. Its saved me a few long walks of shame thats for sure

.

Il throw up some piccies tonight of the valve seats so you all can tell me what you think.

Doug

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Mon Oct 08, 2012 11:23 pm

Hi all,

Got all the valves out of the heads and gave everything a quick clean. I plan on sand blasting them anyway. The main thing I wanted to look at was the valve seats and how well they were sealing. Getting the valve springs off with a super dodgy spring clamp proved to be interesting. Took me the good part of 45min to get the springs off the first head. Then I got the hang of how to use them with out them bending no me and managed to do the second in about 10min

.

Here come the Questions

I thought that the EA81 had a single exhaust valve spring and an inner and outer spring on the intake valve. My heads have two springs on every valve. Is this normal or has someone been tinkering?

Does anyone know the service limit of valve guide wear? I can pinch both ends of the valve and feel the slightest of movement in them. Probably unmeasurable without specific gear to do so. If I were to coat them in oil I probably wouldnt feel anything.

Should I be getting carbon buildup in the intake manifold just before it goes through the valve? Its not very heavy, a squirt with some solvent cleaner peels it right off. Put it this way, its nothing like the exhaust valve manifold.

Thats about all the querys I have. Ive rebuilt small stationary motors before and some of my motorcycles, but all my bikes have been 2 strokers so Im still taking stuff in about these silly valve thingies

. The intake stem seals looked fine too.

Valve seats. Hmm, not the prettiest of things, particually the exhaust ones. Looks like slight carbon "pits" on the faces of the seal, mostly on the valves themselves. All the valves arnt bent so a light lapping will most certainly clean them up 100%. Il wait till I sand blast the heads first though.

Here are some pic's. Parden the quality, they are from my phone

.

Regards

Doug

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Tue Oct 09, 2012 1:47 am

Its late so forgive me if this post is out of order or irrelevant.

If an engine emits heaps of smoke but doesnt smell like oily smoke it could be brake fluid being drawn into the engine from a faulty booster diaphram.

Also I used to test valve guide wear by speeding up down a hill then off accelerator for 10 seconds then full accelerator. lots of smoke then they were worn.

Aftermarket rings are available for the ea81 that dont lock in place allowing them to rotate and when lined up you'll get a puff of smoke. ?But it wont happen often.

Now I'm going to bed lol. hope this helps anyway.