Problem with my L series wagon

Mezo · Post by **Mezo** » Mon Jan 21, 2013 9:27 am

Hey guys,

I have a problem with my L series that i cannot suss out & would appreciate you help.

Its an 88 or 89 1.8GL Touring Wagon (automatic) and yesterday i changed the worn out rear shocks & also changed both slaves as well. Upon plonking it back on the ground & taking for a test run across the paddock i noticed there is a juddering noise coming from the rear of the car but only when i engage 4x4?

The odd thing is when you drive it backwards (in 4x4) there is no noise, only going forward? as soon as you click back to 2wd the noise goes away.

It never made this noise prior to us working on it this weekend so its obviously something we have done wrong? but were stumped on what it could be?

Any thoughts please.

Mezo.

Esubie · Post by **Esubie** » Mon Jan 21, 2013 10:12 am

"Slaves" ?
Sorry, is that brake slave cylinders ?

Mezo · Post by **Mezo** » Mon Jan 21, 2013 10:36 am

Yep both rear slave cylinders were changed as well.

Mezo.

555Ron · Post by **555Ron** » Mon Jan 21, 2013 11:48 am

Just a thought... but not much more then that- Have you looked at the tail shaft universal joints? Not related to anything you have done but I have similar issues and playing with the tail shaft universal joint replicates it.

Esubie · Post by **Esubie** » Mon Jan 21, 2013 11:59 am

Obviously an issue when you have rear axle drive.

How much 'slip' is available in the 'Paddock'. Is it just the 4WD 'binding up' if you have hard surface only.

Also wondering about it being the rear brake shoes dragging when you apply rear axle drive for some reason after your work there.

Sorry, just guessing here.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Mon Jan 21, 2013 12:28 pm

First rule is go back over the work you have just done. It sounds odd to me that it only does it in when you've clicked in the rear drive

Mezo · Post by **Mezo** » Mon Jan 21, 2013 3:00 pm

Thanks for the reply`s guys,

Ive driven the car in the field prior to us working on it at the weekend with no noise so its something we have done working on it, it does sound like the rear brakes binding & juddering from inside the car but we cant figure why it makes the noise only when the rear wheels are engaged.

The fact it doesn't make the noise in 4wd going backwards is also puzzling, im wondering if ive fitted the shoes upside down? does the adjuster between the two shoes go at the top near the slave or is it at the bottom?

Mezo.

Post by **Bantum** » Mon Jan 21, 2013 4:34 pm

Should be at bottom & go something like this ...

Taken from here ...

Cheers, Bantum ...

Mezo · Post by **Mezo** » Mon Jan 21, 2013 4:52 pm

Thanks i searched & found a better fiche pic which shows the adjuster at the top, i have de-greased everything but wondering now if i should have greased it before re-fitting them.

Still unsure if this is causing my problems though? what has that to do with engaging the rear drive? nothing i would have thought but that`s why ive posted it here in the hope someone has had the same problem before.

Bit like the front calliper piston, had us scratching our heads for half an hour trying to force them back in to fit new pads, then figured they screw in??? never seen that before.

Hopefully an evening member will say "i know what`s causing that"

Mezo.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Mon Jan 21, 2013 6:35 pm

In FWD they are just trailing, yet in 4WD they then get a bit of the massive torque the EA82 produces. I know if a tail shaft on an MY 4WD has a dicky uni joint it will go ting ting in FWD and as soon as a bit of power through it with rear wheels road resistance noise quietens a lot if not completely goes

Mezo · Post by **Mezo** » Mon Jan 21, 2013 7:17 pm

So you say give it a go on tarmac? but our driveway is 1.5 K`s long & its been whisper quite until we jacked it up & worked on it? it would have done this previous no?

I can give it a shot in the morning to see but i don`t think its the reason, but hey im desperate to find the problem as ive got to get a roadworthy done for rego.

Mezo.

555Ron · Post by **555Ron** » Mon Jan 21, 2013 7:52 pm

Mezo wrote:So you say give it a go on tarmac? but our driveway is 1.5 K`s long & its been whisper quite until we jacked it up & worked on it? it would have done this previous no?

I wouldn't do it on tarmac, the owners manual states not to - and there's no point.

Jack the back of the car up safely, craw under to the uni joint, grab either side - twist in opposite direction. Push up and down, side to side. Does it make the noise? Can you hear the noise else where? Is there no noise apparent? Is there excessive slop in the joint, or is it tight? Is the tailshaft straight? Report back with your findings.

My Brumby does this. It has rear disc brakes on it from an L series RX. I am sure it is not my drum brakes making the noise because they are sitting on a shelf in my shed. You won't solve it from the computer desk...

Mezo · Post by **Mezo** » Mon Jan 21, 2013 8:12 pm

555Ron wrote:You won't solve it from the computer desk...

Thanks for the advice there Ron i will go through your suggestions in the morning, you can solve a problem from a computer desk as i have solved many a members problems on my own forum with there motorbikes sitting at my desk.

http://www.tenere.co.uk

Regards,

Mezo.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Tue Jan 22, 2013 7:08 am

Another sign to look for on a tailshaft uni is a dry redy dusty rusty look coming from within the bearing cups - usually indicates a dry set of needle rollers grinding into the cups.
On an L Series they are staked uni joints and not easily replaced - no circlips to flick out. You'd need to grind away the 'staked' bit then on reassembly a tack weld to the housing - not sure if it is a safe thing to do in driveline. Did a tiny one with my steering years ago - is good but does not transfer a lot of power

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Tue Jan 22, 2013 7:09 am

, wonder if we could adopt tenere's warning

"This forum often uses coarse language and is really suitable for adults only"

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Tue Jan 22, 2013 8:46 am

steptoe wrote: , wonder if we could adopt tenere's warning

"This forum often uses coarse language and is really suitable for adults only"

I don't think we need to resort to this type of warning - there's really not that much coarse language to make a scene about it!

As for the issue, are you 100% sure it wasn't there before but now that you've been working on your car you're conscious of any little noise produced in that area?

When you put it in 4wd are you driving over the same surface as what you are when you're in 2wd? I only ask as a change in surface can show up new noises as the suspension moves differently etc, and sometimes 2wd can't get you where 4wd can even when gently testing things...

I honestly cannot think of anything that's juttery and 4wd related. A juttery noise usually means that there's something loose that wasn't tightened down properly or it's always been there but you're just taking note of it now after the work you've done back there.

Cheers

Bennie

Mezo · Post by **Mezo** » Tue Jan 22, 2013 9:00 am

Both myself & Danny are well versed in things mechanical, he`s been a 4x4 man for many years doing all his own spannering & we both restore motorbikes as a hobby.

Dan even worked in a suspension shop in vegas for a few years fitting shocks & custom springs for customers, so this problem is 100% something we have done whilst we swapped out the shockies or changed the slaves.

We wondered if it had something to do with how we lifted it? did we bugger something?
I will flick him the link to this thread so he can read through it & we will take another look.

We are both new to Subaru & that`s the reason i posted this in case there was a Subaru quirk that we didn't know about & hopefully get some pointers before we tackle it again.

I guess what im saying is were not idiots when it come to things mechanical, but,,
even NASA makes mistakes.

Mezo.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Tue Jan 22, 2013 9:07 am

Fair enough, I wasn't questioning your mechanical ability. For the following I'm going to ignore the 4wd part of your initial enquiry as my initial thought was that when you put the strut back together there's a big black flat washer that needs to be re-installed.

I forgot to put this washer back in the first time I did my rear springs/struts and had a rattle. This washer allows the nut on the strut top to be fully done up, without it the top hat doesn't bed properly and is allowed to slop around with suspension bounce.

It's worth looking into.

I doubt you've buggered something when you lifted the vehicle to service it - unless you jacked from an inappropriate place (but can't see that happening).

Also is the noise from one side only or central in the rear?

Cheers

Bennie

Mezo · Post by **Mezo** » Tue Jan 22, 2013 9:15 am

El_Freddo wrote:Also is the noise from one side only or central in the rear?

Cheers Bennie, i was just letting you know that were not clueless when it come to mechanical things, but this one has us stumped.

The noise is coming central & from the rear, as soon i went to test drive it i pulled up within ten meter's & said to Dan we've done something very wrong mate.

Like i said it sounds like brakes binding on & off, but so strange when you go backwards in 4wd no noise at all? only going forwards.

Mezo.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Tue Jan 22, 2013 4:03 pm

where'd ya jack it up ?

the diff has mount at the front of it with a rubber bushing, the others are at the outer ends of the moustache bar

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Problem with my L series wagon

Problem with my L series wagon

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