The Brumbyrunner Project

[El_Freddo]

^ That's awesome! Good times eh?

Keen to read more when you've got the time

Cheers

Bennie

[brumbyrunner]

Check out this footage of us hitting some whoops waaaay too fast....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OfSy8j2_ ... el&list=UL

[Bantum]

Just watched 10 min worth, very cool ...

I note how everyone had slowed down by the end of the run ...

Liked your run the best ( 6 min mark ), almost made it all the way too ! ...

Cheers, Bantum ...

[brumbyrunner]

After Finke 2012, I started work on the dry sump. It was handy having a blown motor to mock up everything and for grinding & welding without fear of damaging the motor. I bought most of my parts from Petersons in the USA and they were great to deal with. Good advise and superfast freight.
First I mounted up the Petersons scavenge pump and new ATI harmonic balancer. These are a great unit anyway, but you need one to mount the belt-drive sprocket onto. Peterson also makes this soild billet alloy mount that bolts to the alternator bracket where the aircon compressor usually lives. Everything lined up just fine with any minor adjustment available from the sprocket on the pump shaft.

[TOONGA]

"Go the brumby!!!" ..."did ya see the brumby...?" " eyahehhhe..." "Hey!!! we could do one of them!!!!" ... "do you want a chicken sambo...?"

What makes the Oz outback the Oz outback

I'm guessing there was at least 4-5 feet of air on a couple of those whoops

Awsome stuff

TOONGA

[Bantum]

Umm ... what are going to do with the water lines, as won't they interfere with that pimp setup ? ...

[El_Freddo]

Loved the video. Looks like the Brumby took it in its stride compared to some of the bigger vehicles including the pro buggies!

Looking forward to seeing the rest of the setup.

Cheers

Bennie

[NachaLuva]

the motor grenaded in the first couple of kms and we were in the market for a new engine. We got home and stripped the motor down to discover this

Ouch! Any idea what happened?

the gearbox let go about 40kms in. It looked like the front diff had tried to jump out of the case and was leaking oil badly.
....
Don't know how the gearbox held up with no oil and all that grinding, but it did, and that 20kg Viscous Centre did a superb job of directing enough drive to the back diff. We still did it in 3hrs30min and that was enough for 3rd in class and 35th outright.

You can see the small hole in the side of the case. It doesn't look much but that 'box is toast.

Way to keep going against the odds...awesome effort!

BTW, how do you find the 20kg centre onroad?

[brumbyrunner]

Umm ... what are going to do with the water lines, as won't they interfere with that pimp setup ? ...

One of the many issues that had to be sorted out. Stay tuned....I'll get to it.

Ouch! Any idea what happened?
Way to keep going against the odds...awesome effort!
BTW, how do you find the 20kg centre onroad?

>I think #4 bigend let go. I honestly haven't spend much time investigating. As far as I'm concerned these motors needs better lubrication. When I get my new motor built, it'll be getting crank phasing.
>thanks
>I've never had a 20kg centre onroad but I wouldn't advise it. They're pretty tight.

[brumbyrunner]

The primary goal for my dry sump installation was improving the approach angle. N/A motors are bad enough, but when you have to contend with a turbo crossover pipe in front of an already low hanging sump and then raise the body and bumper away from it, the approach angle gets woeful and the components are horrible exposed. Any Subaru off-roaders already know this I'm sure. In the beginning, I made a steel bashplate to protect the front-end and tie it all together and it's done a fine job. However, it does strike the ground regularly and needs straightening after every race.

So to this end, I tried to make everything below the block as "tucked up" and streamlined as I could. With the exhaust and sump removed the lowest hanging things are the oil pump and oil filter. I removed the oil cooler housing and using a metric nipple, bolted the oil filter directly to the block. The dry sump will hold about twice as much oil and have lines running all the way to the back of the cab, so cooling won't be a problem. The oil cooler coolant return line runs to a port in the block which un-screws and I replaced it with a plug. The coolant supply line comes direct from the water pump which also has two other outlets that I thought I didn't need. The outlets are pressed in so I removed them and tapped out the ports so I could screw plugs in their place.



I had intended to use a N/A pump (on the left) but the thermostat housing hangs down too low.

[Captain Obvious]

great to see things are happening again stuart! that video i cool stuff!!

bryan

[brumbyrunner]

Thanks Bryan.

Next up, I built a new coolant line that runs from the water pump, up the cam covers, under the oil pump, under the intake manifold and meets up with the existing line from the radiator, just behind the starter motor. Also in this pic, you can see the pump mount bolted to the alt bracket. I had to turn it upside down, carve a piece out of the bottom to clear the coolant line and tap in new threads. Metric this time instead of UNC. I did this to lower the pump so it'd clear the bonnet.



I also built a reversed water manifold that runs from the two outlets on top of the block, under the intake manifold and meets up with the other line to the water pump.





I also blanked off the oil filler as it's no longer needed.

[brumbyrunner]

Theres a few dry sump oil pans on the market, but none suited this application so I had to build my own. I'm using a 3 stage pump which gives 2 stages of suction, so I need 2 outlets on the oil pan but they have to be at the front, to keep away from the exhaust. The rear of the oil pan is higher so the oil can drain down to the outlets. The long red fittings are scavenge filters to stop rubbish getting sucked into the oil pump.



I also wanted to retain the windage tray so had to cut it down to fit under the new oil pan.

[Bantum]

Do you still have / need a thermostat in the line somewhere ?

[brumbyrunner]

All the Subaru dry sumps I've seen use an adapter on the oil filter location. This allows the oil to be fed directly into the bearings etc. and away from the disused oil pump. But it hangs down too low and requires a relocated oil filter which is an overly complex result. Instead, I ran my oil feed line into the bottom of the gutted oil pump, where the oil can follow it's original path into the engine. I cut the feed port on the bottom of the pump as short as I could and tapped it out to M18x1.5



Then built a JIC elbow to screw into the port. A bit short on pics but this is the end result.



You can also see I had to replace one of the new plugs on the water pump to run a coolant hose to the turbo.

[brumbyrunner]

Do you still have / need a thermostat in the line somewhere ?

No, don't need one.

[brumbyrunner]

Next up I mounted the Petersons oil tank behind the passenger seat.



And the breather can outside the cab on the rear firewall.



Then I ran the rest of the hoses. This new nylon braid from Earls doesn't have the same wear characteristics as steel braid but is about half the weight and is still rated for high pressure and vacuum.

[STiAMV]

I welcome, who the producer of disks and what parameters diameter, width, OFFSET and PCD?

You can see how much higher the rear guard is cut out now compared to when I did it the first time.

[steptoe]

The wheel rims, also known as mag wheels, look like "Performance" brand , made by in Adelaide, South Australian . My guess is 15" x 6" ?

[TOONGA]

Nice work with all the plumbing, you have given me a few ideas concerning my carby manifold on PJ.

does having no thermostat mean you used a restricter of some sort, or does the distance the coolant is travelling mean you have fewer overheating problems and more keeping the coolant hot?

TOONGA