Anyway, the problem was the immobilizer. Had just the antenna coil sitting there with the fob in it and didn't have the immobilizer LED hooked up. So hooked the LED up for trouble shooting, and it was clear the fob wasn't being recognised - Solid light when the key is turned to ignition.
So stuffed around with a few things, drilled the barrel off the donor car and slipped the antenna over that, and the light stayed off and it started first try.
So I might dismantle the barrel and find out why this is the case. My first thoughts are it either has a fob of its own or the shape of the barrel directs the coil's field in a way the fob can respond. Either way, I might put the new barrel in and have two keys if it fits my steering column.
Still gotta finalise A/C wiring - There is a thing on the newer compressor that is not on the old one, and it's symbol on the wiring diagram is that of an AC power source. Don.t know what that is, but now the 6 is running I can probably get the CRO on it and see what it does.
Also got to work out why the ABS lights aren't turning off while the new engine's running. Hopfully its simple, and not some undocumented change thats totaly omitted from the 1st gen engine diagram.
Might do that before taking on any of the mechanical stuff.
So still more to do, but that was a big win tonight.
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Was never a problem though, as the gen 1 along with it's proprietary OBDI port had two little wires you connected together and it would blink the codes out through the CEL. Imagine anything earlier would be similar maybe?
- AUSUBARU MASTER
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The positive wire will most likely connect to an earth wire from the ECU to trigger the thermo fans and idle up when the compressor is engaged.
Impressive work once again!
How hard would it be to punch out this wiring for other to plug and play as a kit?
On closer inspection of the Gen 1 FSM, the engine electrics and the ABS system are completely separate, except for one wire that goes off to the alternator. Presented very descriptively like this
I have no idea where precisely it goes, but I can understand why the ABS system produces a warning light while the engine is running in another car - The alternator it's connected to isn't running. (The ABS system is connected to the alternator that's on the EJ22). This is also why there is a charge light, but that was obvious.
In the complete working Gen 1 I've noticed that if you unplug the alternator and turn on the ignition on, the ABS light lights up briefly then disappears on its own. I can reproduce that behaviour when the EZ is hooked in as well, and this leads me to be confident that the ABS system will be fine once everything is in the one engine bay and the alternator is connected and running.
As to why the ABS system relies on getting an alternator signal, I can only put this down to being a bit a bodge up on subaru's part for its first ABS equipped model. They needed a way for the ABS system to keep its warning light on to the point at which the engine starts (like all the other warning lights), and an easy way of doing that is to simply sense when the alternator has spun up. The alternative is change the ECU firmware to talk to the ABS module, which is more involved.
As for the A/C, that little thing in the thermal cutout is actually a magnetic speed sensor for the compressor shaft. It's built into the side of the compressor unit. How they've shown that in the manual is a bit misleading, if you ask me. It has nothing to do with the thermal cutout, and whilst it does give a roughly sinusoidal AC output, its not really a power supply; Its a sensor, so why not represent it like all the other sensors. Anyway, It is the same type of sensor that is commonly used for crank angle, and it gives a similar shaped signal. Here's a sketch of what it does at idle. At speed, the voltage increases to around +- 1.2V and the frequency increases of course.
Without this signal, the ECU will engage the magnet clutch for around 3 seconds until it drops it and will not re energize the magnet clutch until the engine is switched off and restarted. My guess is this is to detect a slipping magnet clutch or a seized compressor. This is in a car with climate control, so it automatically engages the A/C without the driver thinking too much about it, so i guess that's why there is that added level of protection. Its also why it is in the H6 and not the pov pack 4cyl variants.
Luckily the logic in the ECU is dumb enough that it will accept a constant square wave of an unrelated frequency. And it also doesn't seem to mind if its getting a signal while the compressor is not supposed to be spinning ie, when the A/C is switched off. Conveniently, there are a few wave signals we can source from, an easy one being the taco signal. So all I've done is drop the taco signal down to 1.2V or so and fed it into the input for this sensor. Appears to work.
Tomorrow, just need to buy a couple of resistors to fine tune the Taco circuit, now that it has this modification the actual taco goes dodgy if the battery voltage drops a bit.
El Freddo: The A/C is a bit more complicated than that
The gen 1 essentially has a cut loop - One ECU pin is energised when all the switches and relays want the compressor to run, and there is another pin that actually energises the final relay to run the magnet clutch. This is so the ECU can control the AC and cut it when your accelerating hard. The EZ has those loop pins, but it also has a blower sense (sensing when the blower motors on) mid pressure sense that goes to the pressure cut off switch (which appears not to effect what the ECU does at all) and that annoying shaft speed sensor. PITA. Its wired up now by basically grounding the appropriate blower and pressure sense pins and running that square wave into the sensor input. Now it just runs like the old Gen 1 system.
Yeah this could probably be knocked up into a kit.
The board should be easy enough to punch out. Need to make some amendments, but sending them off to get fabbed wouldn't be a problem. Will probably do that anyway so that I have a nice clean board with no bodges in the car.
And I could program a bunch of micros easily enough to send out with the boards.
Time to buy a GX or a GC8 and start another project mate
The engine is a BEAST. The big cam chain cover makes the engine look absolutely massive. I'm worried if its even going to fit in! (Although it's certain it does).
The alternator on the EZ is a bit larger, higher capacity and has a small 3 pin connector along with the main terminal. This is different to the early EJ which has a round 4 pin connector. I happen to have a spare EJ alternator, and as I am using the original front harness and I don't need the extra generating capacity, I've decided to modify the EJ alt to fit the EZ. This wasn't hard, basically it just involved swapping the pulleys.
Both alternators had noisy bearings, so I overhauled the EJ alternator and ripped the pulley off the EZ. The shaft protrudes the same amount out of both alternators relative to the mounting holes, but the front bearing on the EZ alternator is set back 3.5 - 4mm further than the Hitachi EJ alternator. Because of this the exposed section of the shaft is 4mm longer, the pulley is 4mm longer to count for it. They could have used a 4mm spacer, but I guess its cheaper to change the design of the pulley. So, threw the pulley on the lathe at work, cut 4mm off the back of it, rattled it onto the EJ alt, no problems. Lined it up at home on the engine, everythings sweet.
Tossing up weather to replace the plugs. They are an absolute c*** to change when they are in the car, and they are iridium platinums, so they cost around $250 bucks for a set from the local parts place, or you've got to wait up to two weeks to get a $150 set off eBay.
Keen to keep the upfront cost of this conversion low, in case it turns out to be shit and I decide to swap back. And waiting two weeks would suck ass, so I think I'll give them a miss. The engine has 180k on it, and I have all the service history. So as the plugs have a supposed life of 100k, I should about a year and a half left in them if they all decide to go AT the service interval. I'll risk it, and get that biscuit.
Just gotta quickly rip the head covers off and check the valve clearances, hopefully they're OK. Should be, the engine's very quiet and smooth. After that Its time to say bubye daily and pull the EJ out.
Will add a few pics to this post soon
- Gettin Hot Talkin'
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I added connectors between the board and the rest of the loom, so that if I need to modify it or repair it I need to. The whole thing will be mounted in the stock BC/BF ECU case, with some holes cut in the side.
The immobilizer module sits neatly to the side, and will be mounted to the side of the case with a small bracket I salvaged from the donor car.
You can see this is still V1.0 of the board, and there are a couple of bodges. There are some cut tracks on the underside and some bodge wires, and on the top you can see the small brown wire and the doubled up resistors I added to simulate the A/C shaft speed sensor.
If I was to make V2 of this board, I would probably order in a board mounted connector and matching plug and do away with the wires soldered directly to the board. This would make the whole thing much more reliable, neater and easy to make. I would also leave the immobilizer connections off the board and have the plug run directly from the cut down EZ loom, seeing as there are no connections to the glue electronics or the BC/BF loom except for power. But after saying all that, this will work well enough I hope
The immobilizer LED is just floating for the time being. Eventually I'll rig up a proper LED in the dash cluster.
Oh, and that floating blue wire on the immobilizer is the door warning wire. Originally thought it needed to be grounded when the door was closed, but found out its grounded when the doors open. Not sure why it needs to know that information, maybe to boot up and be ready for a start, but it draws power and seems to work fine thinking the doors constantly closed.
A few days ago I welded screws onto the EZ ECU and it mounts neatly behind the old ECU/inteface board where the TCU is mounted in automatic cars.
The cable tray above the steering column will happily take all the extra EZ wires.
I'm using the key barrel off the EZ car. I haven't worked out why the immobilizer needs it to run or whether the old barrel will work with the immobilizer as well. But I can be sure it will work, and the fob antenna fits over it nicer. The old barrel is also getting pretty worn. I'll need two keys on my keyring now.
The old barrels are both compatable with the steering column, bar the square key on the EZ barrel. I'll need to sculpt out the column a little to make that work.
The plugs on the end are different, but that doesn't matter because the actuall switches will actually swap over.
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Yes - the plan was to run it via a compliant cpu as an overlay system - with it 'monitoring' the basic functions ( wouldn't actually need to run half the other stuff ). You would have to make sure the module is OBDII first though.Donkeytits1 wrote: ... Hmm. Not sure how you're going to go with that Bantum, those things are designed to work on the OBDII protocol ?
P.S. - Inspiring work with the board you have done, any plans to release the drawings for this ?
Cheers, Bantum ...