EJ driveline conversion - changing rear diff ratio
EJ driveline conversion - changing rear diff ratio
I'm installing a 4.11 AWD driveline into my L series Touring wagon.
The car currently has the standard L series 3.7 open centre rear diff.
I have a 1999 Outback rear diff, which is a 4.11 ratio open centre. It has splined sockets instead of protuding stubs.
I'm guessing I need to take the 4.11 gearset out of the Outback housing and put them into my standard L series housing (discarding the 3.7 gears) leaving me with a 4.11 open centre rear diff which will just bolt straight into my L series.
Is this the correct method?
Are there any problems going from splined sockets to stubs?
Any particular points to pay attention to?
Cheers,
a.
The car currently has the standard L series 3.7 open centre rear diff.
I have a 1999 Outback rear diff, which is a 4.11 ratio open centre. It has splined sockets instead of protuding stubs.
I'm guessing I need to take the 4.11 gearset out of the Outback housing and put them into my standard L series housing (discarding the 3.7 gears) leaving me with a 4.11 open centre rear diff which will just bolt straight into my L series.
Is this the correct method?
Are there any problems going from splined sockets to stubs?
Any particular points to pay attention to?
Cheers,
a.
I belive (someone stop me if im wrong)
You must use the housing of the diff ratio u wish to use... so that the gears line up.
So im guessing u need to dismantle the 4.11 diff and try and only swap the axle stud parts from the 3.7 into it... should be possible.
Dave
You must use the housing of the diff ratio u wish to use... so that the gears line up.
So im guessing u need to dismantle the 4.11 diff and try and only swap the axle stud parts from the 3.7 into it... should be possible.
Dave
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- tim_81coupe
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Yes Dave you are right.
You need to keep the pinion & crown wheels together as they wear evenly. The most trouble-free way of doing this is retaining the housing in which they both came. Not having done this exact swap I'll put forth a suggestion / educated guess:
Use the 4.11 housing, the 3.7 open centre (or take the opportunity to go LSD) the 3.7 side plates, the 3.7 stubs and the 4.11 crown wheel. Remember to put new gaskets or goo on the side plates and rear cover. Renew the side seals while you're at it too, I might have a couple lying around here somewhere with the proper flared ridge bit (name of which evades me right now).
You need to keep the pinion & crown wheels together as they wear evenly. The most trouble-free way of doing this is retaining the housing in which they both came. Not having done this exact swap I'll put forth a suggestion / educated guess:
Use the 4.11 housing, the 3.7 open centre (or take the opportunity to go LSD) the 3.7 side plates, the 3.7 stubs and the 4.11 crown wheel. Remember to put new gaskets or goo on the side plates and rear cover. Renew the side seals while you're at it too, I might have a couple lying around here somewhere with the proper flared ridge bit (name of which evades me right now).
82 MY Wagon, EJ20G
87 RX, EJ20G
89 Brumby, EA81
12 BRZ, FA20
87 RX, EJ20G
89 Brumby, EA81
12 BRZ, FA20
- steve_rising_sun
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- steve_rising_sun
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Just noticed another slight problem...
The bit at the front-of-the-car end of the diff, where the tailshaft bolts onto it is different. The bolt holes are spaced wider apart on the 4.111 diff compaired to my L series 3.7.
If i'm going to be using the 4.111 housing I guess this part needs to be swaped out with the 3.7 then.
The bit at the front-of-the-car end of the diff, where the tailshaft bolts onto it is different. The bolt holes are spaced wider apart on the 4.111 diff compaired to my L series 3.7.
If i'm going to be using the 4.111 housing I guess this part needs to be swaped out with the 3.7 then.
- tim_81coupe
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- steve_rising_sun
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