Fuji Tractor ...
- Bantum
- General Member
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Fuji Tractor ...
Ok - here it is, the Fuji Tractor ...
So I've been working on this since I saw this sketch :
More on the the Squirt here : showpost.php?p=218725&postcount=10
Basic idea was to use the chassis / driveline off a Impreza or similar & shorten it. Then put some new body work over the modified chassis. haven't worked out all the details, as is only a concept at this stage.
Will post some more images / details later ...
Cheers, Bantum ...
So I've been working on this since I saw this sketch :
More on the the Squirt here : showpost.php?p=218725&postcount=10
Basic idea was to use the chassis / driveline off a Impreza or similar & shorten it. Then put some new body work over the modified chassis. haven't worked out all the details, as is only a concept at this stage.
Will post some more images / details later ...
Cheers, Bantum ...
- TOONGA
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- Location: Australind closer to where they divided by zero
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nice concept and a very well thought out drawing
this guy in NZ took it a little futher minus the blades (video 1)
and Honda made one that goes 130mph (video 2)
TOONGA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qe_mS_ucYCM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oH_Qb4fdHfg
this guy in NZ took it a little futher minus the blades (video 1)
and Honda made one that goes 130mph (video 2)
TOONGA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qe_mS_ucYCM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oH_Qb4fdHfg
- Bantum
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- Location: Northern Territory + QLD
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Yeah, It should be good for doing quick laps around the paddock ...
However, I'm not sure about the mechanicals to drive the cutting blade/s though. I was thinking of some sort of prop shaft to junction box behind the Subi gear box, it would need a transfer box of some type there ... Any body got ideas ... ?
Cheers, Bantum ...
However, I'm not sure about the mechanicals to drive the cutting blade/s though. I was thinking of some sort of prop shaft to junction box behind the Subi gear box, it would need a transfer box of some type there ... Any body got ideas ... ?
Cheers, Bantum ...
- Battlewagon
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- Location: Newcastle
- Gannon
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- Joined: Sat Nov 05, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Bowraville, Mid Nth Coast, NSW
You will need a bigger pump than a PS pump to run the blades.
Also, how will you address the lower gearing needed to make the tractor practical?
Turbo diesel engine would be the engine of choice, but I think the gearbox will have to be one built for tractor duty
Also, how will you address the lower gearing needed to make the tractor practical?
Turbo diesel engine would be the engine of choice, but I think the gearbox will have to be one built for tractor duty
Current rides: 2016 Mitsubishi Triton GLS & 2004 Forester X
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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- Bantum
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- Location: Northern Territory + QLD
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Thanks Mate, just what it needs for it to be completed ...Battlewagon wrote:Power steer pump and small hydraulic motor, use a bypass spool on the control so it wont lockup the pump...done.
I hadn't thought of it but this sounds like the perfect solution, although I will have to do some research on the components as I've never really dealt with any of that sort of stuff ...
Got any hints / details / links on what components I should be looking at ?
Cheers, Bantum ...
- Bantum
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Geared ...
Hmm, my thoughts were if you had an electric operated oil pump going to blade motor ie: independent from engine - you could run one for each blade, plan is for two - is this doable ?Gannon wrote:... You will need a bigger pump than a PS pump to run the blades ...
Got any other solutions ?
If I were to keep it in the Fuji family, sounds like having to find EA dual range low gear set, or similar - another option would be to find a tractor donor gearbox that could be mated to the Subi Engine ...Gannon wrote:... Also, how will you address the lower gearing needed to make the tractor practical ... ?
Yep, Another solution might be the new XV electric Hybrid, as the electric motor should be able to handle low gears ...Gannon wrote:... Turbo diesel engine would be the engine of choice ...
Cheers, Bantum ...
- Gannon
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- Location: Bowraville, Mid Nth Coast, NSW
It would be largely inefficient. Why not run the blades directly from electric motors?Bantum wrote:Hmm, my thoughts were if you had an electric operated oil pump going to blade motor ie: independent from engine - you could run one for each blade, plan is for two - is this doable ?
The problem then is that you need one hell of an alternator to run them. A 1.2hp 12v electric motor will pull over 80A, but you will need in excess of 20hp worth of electric motor to turn blades as wide as the car. Do you have a 1000A alternator handy.
Mechanical drive is the only way to do it.
As for the reduction, if you want to stick with the subaru gearbag, you want at least a 2:1 reduction between the clutch and the gearbox, more likely a 3:1
Current rides: 2016 Mitsubishi Triton GLS & 2004 Forester X
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
------------------------------------------
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
------------------------------------------
- Bantum
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- Posts: 1923
- Joined: Sun Jul 29, 2012 4:30 pm
- Location: Northern Territory + QLD
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Deck it ...
Yep - that might work ...Gannon wrote: ... Why not run the blades directly from electric motors ?
Note : 36 volt 3600 rpm, (or 1/2 HP - 2400 rpm on 24 volt, or 1/4 HP—1200 rpm on 12 volt).
More motor details here : http://www.kansaswindpower.net/GE%20Ele ... actors.htm
As for the number of blades, I was thinking two originally. But after bit of research concluded that three would be better for coverage & cleaner cut, where blade overlap is greater than many conventional decks ... eg :
Could also do the traditional belt & pulley system :
More details here : http://salesmanual.deere.com/sales/sale ... _x700.html
Yeah - sounds good, just have to find the right one ...Gannon wrote: ... You want at least a 2:1 reduction between the clutch and the gearbox, more likely a 3:1 ...
Cheers, Bantum ...
- Gannon
- Senior Member
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- Joined: Sat Nov 05, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Bowraville, Mid Nth Coast, NSW
I wasnt being serious about the electric motors, just using it as an example to show how much power would be needed to drive an electric oil pump
Current rides: 2016 Mitsubishi Triton GLS & 2004 Forester X
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
------------------------------------------
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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- Battlewagon
- Junior Member
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- Joined: Wed Apr 02, 2008 5:20 pm
- Location: Newcastle
Why not lose the weight and complexity of the gearbox altogether, go for a hydraulic pump mouted direct to the bellhousing, and mount hydraulic motors directly to the diff on the rear and wheels at the front?
No heavy gearbox, cv shafts, gearshifts to modify, and it lets you locate the engine a tad further rearward, improving stability.
Thats how some of the big commercial mowers work.
Also gives you more than enough hydraulic supply to run the blades.
You may need to mount a cooler for the hydraulic fluid.
No heavy gearbox, cv shafts, gearshifts to modify, and it lets you locate the engine a tad further rearward, improving stability.
Thats how some of the big commercial mowers work.
Also gives you more than enough hydraulic supply to run the blades.
You may need to mount a cooler for the hydraulic fluid.
- Bantum
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- Location: Northern Territory + QLD
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Video ...
Thought I'd give the video a go :
I ended up going with electric motors in the cutter for now, as it seemed the easiest to do ...
Add: I will also post this up on 3d warehouse later ...
Cheers, Bantum ...
Also gave it a bit more detail ( low res though ) ...
I ended up going with electric motors in the cutter for now, as it seemed the easiest to do ...
Add: I will also post this up on 3d warehouse later ...
Cheers, Bantum ...
- Bantum
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- Location: Northern Territory + QLD
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Fully Loaded ...
Ok - I've finally managed to get it loaded up to 3D Warehouse ...
( I did have problems with selecting editing items on their site for some reason )
So Here it is, Enjoy : Fuji Tractor ...
Cheers, Bantum ...
( I did have problems with selecting editing items on their site for some reason )
So Here it is, Enjoy : Fuji Tractor ...
Cheers, Bantum ...