The 04 Outback thread.......
- brumbyrunner
- General Member
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You know...........that blue wagon of yours is great just the way it is. It's almost too nice to cut up.
Have you considered looking around for a manual Lib with either high kms, blown engine or light damage and putting a manual H6 in that?
You'd probably have to sell the blue one but I bet it would sell well. Someone like Grant needs a car like it for more enjoyable trips.
Have you considered looking around for a manual Lib with either high kms, blown engine or light damage and putting a manual H6 in that?
You'd probably have to sell the blue one but I bet it would sell well. Someone like Grant needs a car like it for more enjoyable trips.
Settlement Creek Racing
I have some experience with the superchargers in the link, not good one's either. One of the cars pictured in the gallery may or may not have gone through 3 or 4 engines at the hands of the kit. It also may have had next to no power, made more noise than tolerable and been generally crap.
The kit pictured in the opening page does look much improved however.
Centrifugal blowers are rubbish for offroad use anyway, full boost at redline is hardly the thing of dreams.
A better setup would be an Eaton M90(or similiar) setup something like the pic on the first page. A pair of turbo 3 layer head gaskets and/or a set of EJ257 cast pistons(should be plenty lying around) and 6 psi boost would be pretty torquey. The beauty of your gen 4 is it is back to airflow meter and you can tune the std ecu with open source software yourself. Add some fuel and remove some timing on boost and it could potentially be very reliable and perform quite well.
As for H6, you would either have to do a complete transplant as suggested or you could also use an aftermarket ecu to control the engine as link and vipec are both configured for the EZ30R triggering now. You can still get EZ30R's for ~$2k and an ECU is $2500 for a Link G4 extreem or Vipec V88(same thing). Then add a grand for tuning.
I can vouch for a manual H6 being an extremely torquey package(nothing like when mated to an auto). Mine would idle up a cliff if it had a 1.5:1 low range box in it.
If you are ever coming past Noosaville drop in and take it for a drive Brett.
The kit pictured in the opening page does look much improved however.
Centrifugal blowers are rubbish for offroad use anyway, full boost at redline is hardly the thing of dreams.
A better setup would be an Eaton M90(or similiar) setup something like the pic on the first page. A pair of turbo 3 layer head gaskets and/or a set of EJ257 cast pistons(should be plenty lying around) and 6 psi boost would be pretty torquey. The beauty of your gen 4 is it is back to airflow meter and you can tune the std ecu with open source software yourself. Add some fuel and remove some timing on boost and it could potentially be very reliable and perform quite well.
As for H6, you would either have to do a complete transplant as suggested or you could also use an aftermarket ecu to control the engine as link and vipec are both configured for the EZ30R triggering now. You can still get EZ30R's for ~$2k and an ECU is $2500 for a Link G4 extreem or Vipec V88(same thing). Then add a grand for tuning.
I can vouch for a manual H6 being an extremely torquey package(nothing like when mated to an auto). Mine would idle up a cliff if it had a 1.5:1 low range box in it.
If you are ever coming past Noosaville drop in and take it for a drive Brett.
Cheer. Al.
hi guys
i ran my small vac truck today for the first time about 2 hrs continuious.it runs a souterbuilt undustrial blower. i just love the sound.the only thing its a bit to loud .but its an industrial one flows about 450 cfm with about 1/2 total vacuum @ 3000rpm the big truck one flows 1000 cfm with total vacuum @ 2500 rpm these blowers are for vacuum .but are th same setup and verry heavy dutty i sold the big mutha i had it flowed 3000 cfm heh bolt that to ya scuby
all jokes aside id say blow it lol
id like to know who made the bits for that one in the vid i put up that looks as sweet as it sounds .i like the way it sits in the engine bay to me any ways
dibs
i ran my small vac truck today for the first time about 2 hrs continuious.it runs a souterbuilt undustrial blower. i just love the sound.the only thing its a bit to loud .but its an industrial one flows about 450 cfm with about 1/2 total vacuum @ 3000rpm the big truck one flows 1000 cfm with total vacuum @ 2500 rpm these blowers are for vacuum .but are th same setup and verry heavy dutty i sold the big mutha i had it flowed 3000 cfm heh bolt that to ya scuby
all jokes aside id say blow it lol
id like to know who made the bits for that one in the vid i put up that looks as sweet as it sounds .i like the way it sits in the engine bay to me any ways
dibs
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
- Outback bloke
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I think I have gotten over the supercharger thing already. For this car any way. I have been looking at the eaton range and have decided to put it in the too hard for now basket. Back to thinking a 6 again.
Maybe one of these. 3.6 litre
Otherwise, any one know of a late model 6 with computer and loom? If not I may end up going after market as Al has suggested.
Maybe one of these. 3.6 litre
Otherwise, any one know of a late model 6 with computer and loom? If not I may end up going after market as Al has suggested.
- brumbyrunner
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- vincentvega
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- Outback bloke
- Senior Member
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- Joined: Fri Sep 30, 2005 10:00 am
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- Outback bloke
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I have contacted the bloke selling that motor to get some more info on it (and others). The answers will govern the next step. Good thing is I have the official go ahead from my missus to do a transplant.
If this motor doesn't pan out I will be looking for a Stat write off H6 with low k's to savenge the engine and other bits form.
I also have a few manual boxes here I am thinking about combining to put in there too. Thinking of putting the 4.444 diff centre in the 4.111 box.
If this motor doesn't pan out I will be looking for a Stat write off H6 with low k's to savenge the engine and other bits form.
I also have a few manual boxes here I am thinking about combining to put in there too. Thinking of putting the 4.444 diff centre in the 4.111 box.
- vincentvega
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I didnt have much to do with tuning the thing, but as far as product quality and documentation goes it was top notch. wiring it in was a breeze compared to trying to follow subaru wiring diagrams!
I ran the auto off a gen2 TT TCU so the autronic had nothing to do with that.
I ran the auto off a gen2 TT TCU so the autronic had nothing to do with that.

brumbyrunner wrote:And just to clarify the real 4WD thing, Subarus are an unreal 4WD.
- Outback bloke
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dule bats?
where do u put the 2nd battery, because i want to put a duel battery system into my 97 outback, but cant think of any where to put the 2nd battery, except for the boot?, but i dont wanna have to put it there!
- Outback bloke
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The dual battery (150AH deep cycle) is under the back where the spare normally goes. It is in there with the dual pumps and tank.
That hole is no good for a spare any more due to the tyre size. If I am doing local trips and think I will need a spare it will just go in the back for now. I will possibly have a spare on the back bumper in the future. If not it will just go on the trailer when tripping.
That hole is no good for a spare any more due to the tyre size. If I am doing local trips and think I will need a spare it will just go in the back for now. I will possibly have a spare on the back bumper in the future. If not it will just go on the trailer when tripping.
Your favourite subaru wreckers have a complete stat written EZ30 07 liberty. They wanted $10k for the whole thing but it is a 6MT so that should account for half of that.
Be aware that there is "apparently" potential problems using the late model engines in conversions. Problems relate to the body control module and immobiliser system and the electronic throttle not working because of lack of abs/vdc units. The yanks have had a go at it and not succeeded. This is why I used an earlier engine in my car(the ecu still uses a conventional immobiliser setup).
Personally I think it will be more effective to get an aftermarket ecu and a cheap test engine if you want to go down the EZ30R path. It's less outlay and less work overall than converting using a writeoff so will be cheaper. There are no manual H6 outbacks so you will always be battling harness mismatches if you get a liberty donor car.
It'd also perform a lot better because you give no fark for euro 4 emissions compliance and can tune the engine without this in mind.
Be aware that there is "apparently" potential problems using the late model engines in conversions. Problems relate to the body control module and immobiliser system and the electronic throttle not working because of lack of abs/vdc units. The yanks have had a go at it and not succeeded. This is why I used an earlier engine in my car(the ecu still uses a conventional immobiliser setup).
Personally I think it will be more effective to get an aftermarket ecu and a cheap test engine if you want to go down the EZ30R path. It's less outlay and less work overall than converting using a writeoff so will be cheaper. There are no manual H6 outbacks so you will always be battling harness mismatches if you get a liberty donor car.
It'd also perform a lot better because you give no fark for euro 4 emissions compliance and can tune the engine without this in mind.
Cheer. Al.
- Outback bloke
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Front camber and rear toe with your lift.
G'day to the 'Bloke',
Love this car, are you still running it and did you find a solution to your wheel alignment issues?
I have similar suspension mods to yours and have a table of alignment results in post #1 of my thread. showthread.php?t=17968
I'd be interested to find out if you have similar issues to me.
* Am thinking of fitting Whiteline rear adjustable camber bushes to improve the toe. What do you think?
* What, if anything, did you do to adjust the front camber, apart from adjusting the top bolt of the steering knuckle (I think)? In particular, do you know of any adjustable top hats (as per the Impressa) that are available?
Love this car, are you still running it and did you find a solution to your wheel alignment issues?
I have similar suspension mods to yours and have a table of alignment results in post #1 of my thread. showthread.php?t=17968
I'd be interested to find out if you have similar issues to me.
* Am thinking of fitting Whiteline rear adjustable camber bushes to improve the toe. What do you think?
* What, if anything, did you do to adjust the front camber, apart from adjusting the top bolt of the steering knuckle (I think)? In particular, do you know of any adjustable top hats (as per the Impressa) that are available?