
Rear wheel bearing replacement on Brumby
Rear wheel bearing replacement on Brumby
I have a 1984 Brumby and had it loaded with some bricks (not overloaded) the other day and heard what sounded like rear wheel bearing noises from both sides of the car. Is not there when unloaded. Reading the manual I have it seems a fair bit more involved than I would have thoought to replace wheel bearings. Is it a job I can do at home? According to the manual I need a press to press bearing parts out. Also does anyone know the part numbers of the bearing kits and if they are available from the likes of CBC or only through Subaru? thanks Spin.

- TOONGA
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heres what the hub looks like in exploded view off the car REMEMBER THIS IS AN 1986 WHEEL BEARING ASSEMBLY NOT A 1984 DIFFERENT BUT SIMILAR

if you have the gregorys manual thats where this picture comes from
the ring nut is a pure prick to remove there is a special tool available but I think they cost more than a wheel bearing kit
I once made one out of a 3/4 socket and some tool steel but that was before I left to live in Singapore and before all my tools dissapeared
good luck if you do it
if you need the gregorys manual tell me and i will upload it to your prefered download server
copied from
showthread.php?t=14403&page=2
look here as well
showthread.php?t=7296&
its not a difficult job and you can get the collars out with a soft metal drift instead of a press or puller
TOONGA

if you have the gregorys manual thats where this picture comes from
the ring nut is a pure prick to remove there is a special tool available but I think they cost more than a wheel bearing kit
I once made one out of a 3/4 socket and some tool steel but that was before I left to live in Singapore and before all my tools dissapeared
good luck if you do it
if you need the gregorys manual tell me and i will upload it to your prefered download server
copied from
showthread.php?t=14403&page=2
look here as well
showthread.php?t=7296&
its not a difficult job and you can get the collars out with a soft metal drift instead of a press or puller
TOONGA
- subybrumby
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I have replaced the bearings at home here. Biggest problem is the removal of the locking nut on the inside rear. It looks like the plug out of a 44 gallon drum with the inside cut out. It can be removed by coaxing it with a punch and hammer but you will probably destroy the recesses where the special tool grabs onto it. I made one out of a piece of suitable gal pipe that fits inside the hub and cut out the matching teeth for it.. It requires a fair bit of torque, but I got there and if you want to have a go, its do able. There should be some info on this site about it.
- TOONGA
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Spin not a problem I bought a bearing kit from auto one ages ago and they had it in stock CBC should have a kit coventrys should be able to supply it or even supa cheap subaru have a knack for gold plating orignal part prices with no real gain to the buyerSpin wrote:OK thanks for that. I will research the ring nut issue further before taking apart. Yeah I have the manual with that diagram thanks TOONGA, appreciate the offer.
Does anyone know if the rear bearing kit can be purchased from CBC or is it a subaru dealer item? thanks Spin.
TOONGA
same loops
Just been doing the same loop - got the bearings from CBC no worries - around $75 each and set up more as a single part rather than dual bearings with a separate spacer.
In the end I decided that I'd saved a bit of mechanic time by pulling the trailing arms out, but that the rest was too much of a stuff around without a tool for the ring nut and a bearing press. But the mechanic just tapped the ring nut out and back in anyway, so maybe I could just as easily have done it and gotten away with dropping the bearing in after a spell in the freezer. If I could reverse a couple of days I'd do it myself.
Good luck!
In the end I decided that I'd saved a bit of mechanic time by pulling the trailing arms out, but that the rest was too much of a stuff around without a tool for the ring nut and a bearing press. But the mechanic just tapped the ring nut out and back in anyway, so maybe I could just as easily have done it and gotten away with dropping the bearing in after a spell in the freezer. If I could reverse a couple of days I'd do it myself.
Good luck!
- FROG
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Genuine bearings are about $75 each
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Just bought two rear bearing kit sets today for $75 ea which included bearings, cups and seals. Subaru dealer quoted me $78 each for just the bearing. Imparts quoted me $75ea kit with all parts included. They get them from Coventrys but if you buy from Coventrys they charge more so got them from Imparts.
Im going to do what Frog did and take the assembly off and see if I can remove the nut and if it proves to be too difficult will just take the whole assembly to a mechanic to do. Spin

- subybrumby
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By the way, that nut we speak of is basically a stake nut. It will have a piece of the outer housing folded into one of the notches to lock it in. Make sure you pull that thin bit of housing out of the way before you try to dislodge the ring nut. then away you go. On reversal when you've got it all tight, get a centre punch and knock a bit of the outer thin housing back into one of the notches to prevent the ring nut from working loose. Good luck with it. Trev.
- El_Freddo
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To get that bloody nut out I made this:


Its a bit rough but made the job so much easier, and I didn't damage the nut which was the aim.
To get the casings out I used an old solid tow ball that had the shaft removed - just smack the crap out if it and the casing will come out. When I put it back in I greased the outside of the casing to avoid rust inbetween the casing and the bearing housing.
Make sure your seals are seated properly too - I've done my bearings twice due to seals that I didn't push in properly.
Cheers
Bennie


Its a bit rough but made the job so much easier, and I didn't damage the nut which was the aim.
To get the casings out I used an old solid tow ball that had the shaft removed - just smack the crap out if it and the casing will come out. When I put it back in I greased the outside of the casing to avoid rust inbetween the casing and the bearing housing.
Make sure your seals are seated properly too - I've done my bearings twice due to seals that I didn't push in properly.
Cheers
Bennie
- subybrumby
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- Fury
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I know this is an old thread, but some usefull info.
I am doing a rear right on my EJ'd Vortex, I made a tool similar to the pic's above 20mm box tube, with 2 flat bars (shaped ends) that fit that nut, but so far NO JOY...
...and yes, the outside locking tab is clear.
Anyone have any extra ideas? PLEASE
I've heated it, ( the outside of the carrier)
then froze the nut with that pressure pack freezer stuff,
soaked it with WD,
then although the tool I made was reinforced, it bent (distorted the box section) with a 1.5mtr bar...
F...aaarrrr out, this is a bi**h. (and I am assuming that it is a standard right hand thread (so undoing is anti clock wise - just incase someone may think I am tightening it)
I started taking the whole assembly off the car, but I stopped because I thinj I can get a better purchase with it still mounted, rather than in a bench vice. (it is Crossbred converted, so brakes would need to come off and a heavy sway bar etc etc...
Thanks
I am doing a rear right on my EJ'd Vortex, I made a tool similar to the pic's above 20mm box tube, with 2 flat bars (shaped ends) that fit that nut, but so far NO JOY...
...and yes, the outside locking tab is clear.
Anyone have any extra ideas? PLEASE
I've heated it, ( the outside of the carrier)
then froze the nut with that pressure pack freezer stuff,
soaked it with WD,
then although the tool I made was reinforced, it bent (distorted the box section) with a 1.5mtr bar...
F...aaarrrr out, this is a bi**h. (and I am assuming that it is a standard right hand thread (so undoing is anti clock wise - just incase someone may think I am tightening it)
I started taking the whole assembly off the car, but I stopped because I thinj I can get a better purchase with it still mounted, rather than in a bench vice. (it is Crossbred converted, so brakes would need to come off and a heavy sway bar etc etc...
Thanks
Chris 
'88 Vortex AWD turbo with "go hard" attitude -
WRX EJ20G and box , TD05 Turbo and 4.111 running gear.
5 Stud conversion (Crossbred Performance) Multi pot GT Legacy brakes and 17" rims
Plenty of plans... the plans are getting done slowly;).... getting there - NOT!

'88 Vortex AWD turbo with "go hard" attitude -
WRX EJ20G and box , TD05 Turbo and 4.111 running gear.
5 Stud conversion (Crossbred Performance) Multi pot GT Legacy brakes and 17" rims
Plenty of plans... the plans are getting done slowly;).... getting there - NOT!

wild_rx wrote:did the rear bearing on mine, that nut like they have said sucks to remove! I did it with a hammer and punch...was full of red dust and took ages to remove and also just about destroyed the nut too.
The rest was fairly easy though
Mate you have 4 slots in that brass backing nut that holds the inner rear wheel bearing in. If u look closely u probably will find that one of the four grooves has had the OUTER bearing casing bent into the groove with a cold chissel to stop it loosening up. Just get a chissel and drive it back out and u may find the brass nut will comply with your wishes. It happened with me on my Brumby, and it drove me crazy trying to remove it UNTIL I saw that bloody outer casing driven into one of the slots.