More Grief L Series major electrics

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Tue Sep 15, 2009 1:55 pm

~Yeah , sedan dash instruments and gauges are different to Brumby and wagons, had an analogue 84 sedan in the past. I have not seen any MY MV wire diagrams other than Gregories.

~ Been looking at some L's to work out the 85, and 86 had a push in pull out hazard switch on ticker box, this is same as ours and is internal flash 'can' in the columns switch. Next model had a rocker switch on the RHS of same ticker switch, push pull is LHS of unit. Later models like late 87 had a hazard button in dash, and.somewhere hidden in the middle of this text i am admitting I am an eediot! I was looking at my lights in the boot, looking at a clear light bulb lens and thinking, that is not the indiactor lens, nor the freakin indicator bulb. As I had the bulb unit hooked up but siting in the boot, not looking at the lenses themselves. I bin looking at the reverse light bulb and wires all this time and just about to redirect the cut wires from the indicator switch loom to the mutter, mutter, reverse lights. When the light bulb in the brain lit up (musta got the surge too!) I found the real indicator bulb is all by itself in the corner with an orange lens. Quietly check these bulbs to find they are both blown, like one even has its filament fused to the glass inside!! Not unlike my brake light bulbs. Also found the front bumper lights bulbs shot also.( One screw each at the front would not come undone or out ~ another story). Replace all four original Koito bulbs with more Koito brand bulbs and whattya know, indicators work, switch stops buzzing. I worked out the second pair of wires from combo switch plug at st column is not front or rear split but the dash indicators supply . Stupid cut the 'unneccesary yesterday' wires way so short to ever use again easily, , , so hooked them back up, now got dash ticker lights too.

~Given power directly to red dash warning lights socket and got BF and SL lights. Gonna do same for LHS of dash pod. Just had to do a 25km scream home for a refill of my solder iron and pick a few tools I forgot.

~Looks like just fuel gauge to go and I can reassemble the bits and be driving again.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Wed Sep 16, 2009 2:33 pm

Good news is I am up and running again. happy to be driving this beast. realise it has much nicer ride than Brumby, better lights on low beam than a Brumby, stops better. Might as well forget the EA82T n a Brumby and stick with this save new exhaust in Brumby, engineers cert.....

If you are reading this and got a an old subie and haven't yet checked, like really checked the condition of your fusible links DO IT NOW !! If they in good nick, you're lucky. If you find them corroding away, again you are lucky. All this crap happened coz I musta jinxed myself. I did think of looking at the FLs just a few weeks before all this grief happened. Sounds like prostate check advice .

GOD · Post by **GOD** » Wed Sep 16, 2009 3:36 pm

steptoe wrote:Good news is I am up and running again. happy to be driving this beast. realise it has much nicer ride than Brumby, better lights on low beam than a Brumby, stops better. Might as well forget the EA82T n a Brumby and stick with this save new exhaust in Brumby, engineers cert.....

If you are reading this and got a an old subie and haven't yet checked, like really checked the condition of your fusible links DO IT NOW !! If they in good nick, you're lucky. If you find them corroding away, again you are lucky. All this crap happened coz I musta jinxed myself. I did think of looking at the FLs just a few weeks before all this grief happened. Sounds like prostate check advice .

Glad to hear she's going. But I'm confused - how does a corroded fusible link create an overvoltage fault?

And are the newer type FLs pictured below any better than wire? I put one in a spare slot in my car to power some accessories, and have been pondering replacing all the wire FLs with them too.

Dane.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Wed Sep 16, 2009 9:58 pm

Someone with better knowledge or sounds to be suggests the greater voltage can be created by the corroded broken FL contact and break contact. I swapped out alternator too to be on the safe side. Will get it checked out in good time. If newer are free from corrosive condition , maybe. But 23 years old, not bad service, just a pisser of a way to tell me. The easiest fix was the fuel gauge - filled it up

phillatdarwin · Post by **phillatdarwin** » Thu Sep 17, 2009 5:52 pm

it is not the greater voltage can be created by the corroded broken FL it is the fact that if it corroded it will make it hot from the corent going thro it .

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Jun 02, 2012 9:50 am

And, nearly three years later here is a picture of the culprit-

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

notice the break rather than burn out? Corrosion in a spot hidden by the rubber insulator sleeve ?

I found it stashed away in a hidey hole in the dash the other night when finally hooking up some repair wires laid out back then on repair success that took three weeks!

Had to see if I got , and kept, some ignition lights - added an inline fuse of just 2A in case, not sure what foose the loose wire I found IGN source from to tap in uses

Have had zip dash lights other than display lighting in all that time, now got brake warning, AT over temp, and charge lights

This was back in the day when i was unable to post pics in here