Oil Pump damage or dirty oil filter
Oil Pump damage or dirty oil filter?
Hello,
when my subie runs about 1.500rmp the oil warning lamp went on, when i give some gas (about 4.000rmp) the light goes out, if the engine goes back to 1.500rmp the warning lamp went on again, and that always.
is this a damaged oil pump`?
Engine Oil is new.
when my subie runs about 1.500rmp the oil warning lamp went on, when i give some gas (about 4.000rmp) the light goes out, if the engine goes back to 1.500rmp the warning lamp went on again, and that always.
is this a damaged oil pump`?
Engine Oil is new.
2 possible situations
- Your oil pump could be worn out.
- Your engine could be worn out and have excessive clearances.
Probably best to start by replacing the oilpump. I haven't done one on a subaru before but I imagine they're pretty cheap. I know they're mounted on the outside of the engine which is really convenient(I'm a chevy guy. you have to pull the engine to change the oilpump!)
- Your oil pump could be worn out.
- Your engine could be worn out and have excessive clearances.
Probably best to start by replacing the oilpump. I haven't done one on a subaru before but I imagine they're pretty cheap. I know they're mounted on the outside of the engine which is really convenient(I'm a chevy guy. you have to pull the engine to change the oilpump!)
- steptoe
- Master Member
- Posts: 11582
- Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: 14 miles outside Gotham City
The cheapest thing to try first is replace the oil presure switch, about $10 from after market parts places. Second thing to test is the wire from switch, is it earthing out on the engine or body - disconnect from oil pressure switch to see if you geet same red light. If you ground the wire to the body or block the light should remain on.
Next cheapest is change filter. Next cheapest change oil, same grade or thicker with turbo needs kept in mind and climate.
Then there is what they call the mickey mouse oil pump body to block seal, looks like big round with two mickey mouse ears attached
Then the correct diagnostic test the oil pressure with a gauge screwed in - mechanical workshop should have one and not charge too much
Next cheapest is change filter. Next cheapest change oil, same grade or thicker with turbo needs kept in mind and climate.
Then there is what they call the mickey mouse oil pump body to block seal, looks like big round with two mickey mouse ears attached
Then the correct diagnostic test the oil pressure with a gauge screwed in - mechanical workshop should have one and not charge too much
- AlpineRaven
- Senior Member
- Posts: 3682
- Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.
I was about to say that just same what steptoe said.
Oil pump is last thing I would say because you have to remove the timing belt to access
what oil grade are you using? Since it's winter there approx 0 degrees..
Cheers
AP
Oil pump is last thing I would say because you have to remove the timing belt to access
what oil grade are you using? Since it's winter there approx 0 degrees..
Cheers
AP
Subarus that I have/had:
1995 Liberty "Rallye" - 5MT AWD, LSD - *written off 25/8/06 in towing accident.
1996 Liberty Wagon - SkiFX AWD 5MT D/R, Lifted.. Outback Sway Bar, 1.59:1 Low Gearing see thread: 1.59:1 in EJ Box Page
Sold at 385,000kms in July 2011.
2007 Liberty BP Wagon, 2.5i automatic

1995 Liberty "Rallye" - 5MT AWD, LSD - *written off 25/8/06 in towing accident.
1996 Liberty Wagon - SkiFX AWD 5MT D/R, Lifted.. Outback Sway Bar, 1.59:1 Low Gearing see thread: 1.59:1 in EJ Box Page
Sold at 385,000kms in July 2011.
2007 Liberty BP Wagon, 2.5i automatic

- bobbyjimmy
- Junior Member
- Posts: 273
- Joined: Fri Jan 04, 2008 3:54 pm
- Location: ACT
l-series EA82
I use 10W-40, the temperature at the moment is -10°C
I bought a oil pressure gauge. hope the oilpressureswitch will fit in the subie and hope it will help to find the problem.
http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie ... K:MEWNX:IT
I use 10W-40, the temperature at the moment is -10°C
I bought a oil pressure gauge. hope the oilpressureswitch will fit in the subie and hope it will help to find the problem.
http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie ... K:MEWNX:IT
- steptoe
- Master Member
- Posts: 11582
- Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: 14 miles outside Gotham City
another instrument to watch is a good idea. I should have said a screw in mechanical gauge that is just in for the duration of the test. I guess what you have bought will be yours to keep for less than what a mechanic may charge you to test your engine oil pressure. Ebay.de ! We have ebay.com.au !
Nice looking gauge and model , the blonde - (not seen them on our ebay before!) Great price and postage.The EA82T oil pumps i have looked at have both the 1/8 BSPT tapered thread hole for the il pressure switch AND the larger size for oil pressure gauge. Sometimes an adaptor is needed to suit position used.
Nice looking gauge and model , the blonde - (not seen them on our ebay before!) Great price and postage.The EA82T oil pumps i have looked at have both the 1/8 BSPT tapered thread hole for the il pressure switch AND the larger size for oil pressure gauge. Sometimes an adaptor is needed to suit position used.
- steptoe
- Master Member
- Posts: 11582
- Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: 14 miles outside Gotham City
I believe they are the same. I am yet to have removed an EA82 oil pump. I have dismantled and rebuilt EA81 oil pumps with the rebuild seals A$20, They have specificatons to check rotor clearances. I suspect EA82 specs are similar. The EA82 oil pump is timing belt drive, so you need to remove and refit timing belt covers, the belts to get at the oil pump.