Lift kit offset question

[El_Freddo]

G'day all,

Things look like they're starting to move with the build of my lift kit (still slowly, but its a start finally!). After speaking to Captain Obvious I'm looking at building a two inch body lift with three inch strut top lift running standard springs all round - but I am thinking of adding a set of brackets up the back for some holden air shocks that are plumbed independantly from each other for those times when I've got a load to carry.

The questions are: Being that I'm going for a two inch body lift and three inch strut lift, what is the required offset on the strut top to keep the camber at a good angle? And will it fit in the strut tower?

I realise there will be an increased angle on the CV's but I'm willing to live with that. I'm hoping to have an AWD box in there before the wedding so all four drive shafts will be carrying the load instead of just two.

If dave's still out for the count (hope his family member is recovering well), where would be the best place to get a PS two inch steering uni shaft from?

Also, I've recently read the thread about guard trimming, I'm now wondering if this is necessary to fit 27 inch tyres in the guards - I thought there wasn't any need for guard trimming with a 3 inch lift?

Cheers

Bennie

[Venom]

Jeff is doing lift kits now so he should be good for a steering extension and advice on the strut top offset. I've also got one of Dave's 3" kits sitting at home if you want to have a looksy. The same offset as a full 3" lift will give you slightly more neg camber using a 2" body lift.

It's my understanding there is no gaurd trimming when you're using 27" tyres, a 2" lift and standard offset rims. That is why i went out of my way to get those rally rims which were unfortunately bent beyond repair.

Cheers,
Rhys

[AndrewT]

There will most likely be guard trimming required, but only very minor. It's a little difficult to explain, but it's so minor you are perfectly safe to just wait and see what's needed once you actually get them onto the car.
You might need to bash the inner guard in slightly (approx where the accellerator pedal is on the other side).
Also the front lower part of the guard may need a little bit lopped off it.

Lots of factors tho, offset, brand of tyre etc which can affect things.

[Barry1956]

G'day all,

Things look like they're starting to move with the build of my lift kit (still slowly, but its a start finally!). After speaking to Captain Obvious I'm looking at building a two inch body lift with three inch strut top lift running standard springs all round ...

... where would be the best place to get a PS two inch steering uni shaft from?

...

Cheers

Bennie

Bennie,

Not meaning to hijack your thread, but a couple of questions, which might also be of interest to others:
1/. At what stage is a steering extension required?

[INDENT]- Not with a 1" strut lift but is required with a 2" strut lift?[/INDENT]
[INDENT]- No strut lift requires a steering extension, but it is required for any body lift?[/INDENT]
[INDENT]- Neither of the above, but where...[specify]?[/INDENT]

2/. Would the answer to this question be different depending on model type? e.g., between the 80s era, such as yours, and my 2005 model Outback?

3/. Is rego / insurance possible with the 3" lift? I thought both were limited to 2"?

Good luck with your latest project, I will follow it with interest, as I did your engine swap.

[El_Freddo]

No worries Barry.

The steering extention is needed on the BODY LIFT Strut lift does not move the steering rack down from the steering column's shaft.

From what I've read the lift in the VSI-8 refers to body lift... hence the 2 inch lift - either way if a cop checks it out I'm in trouble, cos they'd probabily look under the bonnet and find an engine number that's not on the rego - cos vic roads wouldn't change it without an engineers report.

Thanks Venom, I'll get in contact with Jeff as things start to move along on this end, I may beable to knock one up myself through my uncle and his welding ticket

AT, thanks for that info, I'm hoping not to do any trimming if possible around the whole arch. I realise some "massaging" of the floor will be needed. Not worried about that. Really it comes down to the CBF'd movement with the guard cutting...

Venom - those rims were Unservicable?? Bugger, they would've looked HOT! I'll also be keen to see how those buckshots (correct?) go! Shall we race with our lift installs? Or you could come over and we'll shove it all in one day on a weekend

Cheers

Bennie

[AndrewT]

dont worry too much about the guard trimming, it's a 10 minute job (20 seconds if you don't mind it looking abit bodgy)

[El_Freddo]

dont worry too much about the guard trimming, it's a 10 minute job (20 seconds if you don't mind it looking abit bodgy)

No worries, if it's got to be done - I'll have to do it. That should get some motivation going!

Cheers

Bennie

[twilightprotege]

27's and 2" lift works - that's what mine was before i went more. i have a 3" lift kit that'll be for sale soon - has offset strut tops too. pm me

[El_Freddo]

Thanks twilight. I'm keen to make my own to keep cost down and to have a go at building one myself.

So would anyone know the offset or how to work it out??

Cheers

Bennie

[twilightprotege]

when i was doing my front strut blocks, i worked it out to be about 15 or 16 degrees. however, if you have the strut top blocks higher than the lift of the subframe, you'll need more degrees, more like 18 or even 20.

my current setup has the subframe up 9cm, gearbox and radius rods up 8cm, struts up 10cm. i used 16 degree offset and the tyres now set ever so slightly out. with that setup i reckon 18 degrees would have been best.

long story short, i used rhino 3d to work out the design

i have to admit, everything but the strut lift blocks is cheap to do yourself depending on if you do everything yourself. i had my strut tops laser cut - not cheap.