92 L series brake shudder

[drof351]

Gday, what rims are you using? Are they tight? Ive had an l series where the wheels nuts were tight but they were slightly worn on the rim and nut, made that noise. Under braking noise would go away.

[92subbie]

I'm running standard 13inch rims. They are silver in colour if that makes any difference. The nuts are tight (but not too tight) They were done up by myself and El_Freddo....

[TOONGA]

I listened to that noise and it sounded like wheel bearings

which brings the question when were they last done?

but it could be a worn hub or cv shaft as well

TOONGA

[92subbie]

To my knowledge they have never been done. They feel tight when attempting to wiggle the wheel. They car has only done 170,000km's.

How would I check for worn hub? I have done a full lock-lock test (forward and backward) and the cv's don't make any noise...

[coxy]

Look at the following areas,Worn bush in steering rack on passenger side of main rack body that can be checked by pulling rack boot back off housing and attempting to move the shaft up and down.
Remove outer CV boots and check the amount of CV grease,too little and dry causes all sorts of noises and steering,braking issues.
Always best with front wheel drive or all wheel drive to do on car disk machining to eliminate potential run out issues.

[92subbie]

Ok so today I took a look at the CVs and I think I might have finally found something. First was the drivers side which appeared to have a good clean amount of grease. Then I checked the passenger side and it appeared to have less grease and be of a dirty sort of colour. I also noticed that around the outside of the housing their appeared to be 'blue' heat marks where the balls are. You can just sort of see this in the photo.

I also took the passenger side rack boot off and attempted to move it up and down and it did seem to move but only with a fair bit of force. How do I go about fixing this one?

Thanks for all the replies and assistance

Leigh

[rubisubi]

Id be looking at the cv joints, my MY brumby used to have a bad wobble at speed and didnt have the typical cv clicking, changed the cv and was smooth as after that.

[TOONGA]

going by the grease in your passenger cv I would get the whole shaft out and clean both ends down and regrease them then put it back in and alot of your problem shoud dissapear

TOONGA

[Alex]

going by the grease in your passenger cv I would get the whole shaft out and clean both ends down and regrease them then put it back in and alot of your problem shoud dissapear

TOONGA

amen to that.

looks like old grease which has had a fair bit of heat go thru it.

whilst the shafts out change the boots, it just makes things easier for the future.


alex

[92subbie]

should i do drivers side as well? also do i clean out the old grease with kero or something?

ive never re-greased these things before...

[TOONGA]

lots of old towels or rags that lithium grease is nasty to get off

lots of petrol or kero or cheap degreaser, cheap degreaser is less flammable if you are going to pull one down you may as well do the other

have you put shafts together before?

it isn't hard but if you haven't I can scan a guide for you from my haynes

TOONGA

[92subbie]

no i havent. ive had them out but never pulled one down before. a scan would be greatly appreciated!

thankyou

[TOONGA]

here you go it is haynes so it is very comprehensive

once you've done one shaft the shortcuts will become apparent











have fun and my motto is "the more grease the more left in the joint if the boot fails"

TOONGA

[92subbie]

ok i have the driveshafts out now. at the same time i was going to pop the bearings out and re-grease them too. should i replace the bearing seals? and if so where might i get them from? i just tried Bursons and they don't stock them

[Alex]

not sure if you can get seals just by themselves...usually get them with a new wheel bearing kit.

goodluck with the boot replacement, it can be a little bit tricky first time with all the split rings etc etc but youll figure it out.

as for cleaning the grease off, i get an icecream container and chuck all the bits in it and then just douse it with the spray can type degreaser. Works well.

alex

[92subbie]

I finally got the passenger side shaft out of the bearings and gave the CV a good wobble around and it was very very stiff. Not free and smooth like the drivers side CV.

Should I just replace it?

Also I noticed that the drivers side DOJ is was a little stiff when wobbling it around on its extremes. No where near as bad as the passenger side CV but still a little stiff.

Another thing I noticed and I'm pretty sure they are supposed to do it, is the drivers side CV has a little bit of "end float". Is this normal?

Thanks so much for all your help so far but I think I'm slowly getting somewhere and learning heaps too!

Cheers

[92subbie]

Well.... After a solid days work I have installed two new driveshafts and two new sets of wheel bearings and rebooted my steering rack. The hardest part seemed to be getting the bloody bearing seals in! I spent well over two hours trying to get the inner ones to go in.... I really hope I didn't end up damaging them.

Any way took the car for a quick test drive and geez it was smoooth!!!!

Things I discovered were a cooked outer CV joint on the passenger side and a shredded (but still spun fine...) outer bearing on the drivers side.

I took my time to pack the new bearings as per instructions and done the castle nuts up to 196Nm as per spec's.

I really do hope this is the end of my front end troubles.

Also in poking around in the engine bay for so long I discovered that I have a water leak coming from the drivers side head down in the bottom corner closest to the engine bay....

[92subbie]

I would also like to add that after having my discs machined, the pedal was very spongy and went pretty low. I have since bled the brakes several times, getting air out of the system. What might cause this after having the discs machined?

Thanks heaps for all of your help so far!