4x4 coupe conversion + extras

Matatak · Post by **Matatak** » Mon Jul 07, 2008 9:44 pm

Struts hitting on the Strut Towers...thats only with the Lift Kit in there though.

What size is your Lift Kit? it shouldnt be creating Negative Camber.

2coupedup · Post by **2coupedup** » Tue Jul 08, 2008 12:54 pm

Alex wrote:ba***njesus! what a tank! looks sweet.

perhaps ps rack is on the way oout? does it have ps?

alex

nah no p/s i think i bent the column when i took out the lift kit

2coupedup · Post by **2coupedup** » Tue Jul 08, 2008 12:57 pm

Matatak wrote:Struts hitting on the Strut Towers...thats only with the Lift Kit in there though.

What size is your Lift Kit? it shouldnt be creating Negative Camber.

NO lift except the lift blocks on top of the strut tops... it was 2" lift b4 i removed it... i have L arms....

but all sweet now... have a couple of degrees negative camber...

NEED 3" LONGER FRONT STRUTS/SHOCKS SO I CAN REMOVE STRUT LIFT BLOCKS AND LEVEL HER OUT.... HOW/WHERE CAN I GET SOME??????

2coupedup · Post by **2coupedup** » Sun Jul 13, 2008 3:01 pm

got myself some rubber mud flaps and 60mm wheel arch flares... gotta tidy the wheel arches b4 i can install them...

2coupedup · Post by **2coupedup** » Mon Jul 28, 2008 12:59 pm

had a wheel alignment done (fixed tight steering aswell) got the tyre shop to even up castor... or not even touch it, because when i had a fiddle and adjusted it myself (with a ruler to measure) i apparently got it "spot on" within 0.5mm of each other... then headed off to the beach to test out the 27"x8.5" muddies i had fitted to 14"x6" sunnies... all went extra well at 15psi, but extra tuff to steer with no P/S lol...

DOES ANYONE KNOW THE SAFE MINIMUM PSI FOR KUMHO KL 71'S???

BRUMBI · Post by **BRUMBI** » Mon Jul 28, 2008 5:51 pm

ive ran my kumho M/Ts at 7psi easy, its more that you have to let the pressure to get them to bag

2coupedup · Post by **2coupedup** » Wed Jul 30, 2008 1:51 pm

thanks... shall give it a try next time and see what difference it makes... i really wanna have a go at road pressure and see how they go on the beach too...

2coupedup · Post by **2coupedup** » Wed Sep 03, 2008 8:08 am

OOOOUCH.... driving along in 3rd at bout 3000rpm then "!!!!!BANG!!!!! clunk clunk clunk clunk clunk clunk......" (very loudly) there goes my gearbox, think a bearing or snapped gearset or something...
i have a spare box but not sure if it has the same ratio for my diff.....

how can i tell whats what????

Ben · Post by **Ben** » Wed Sep 03, 2008 6:01 pm

Mate that 76 sedan of yours is unbelievable. I'd love an old school subie like that! What's it like with the auto?

You may have blown a CV joint, 2" strut tops is a LOT of angle for CV's to be under for any length of time...

2coupedup · Post by **2coupedup** » Thu Sep 04, 2008 2:27 pm

Ben wrote:Mate that 76 sedan of yours is unbelievable. I'd love an old school subie like that! What's it like with the auto?

You may have blown a CV joint, 2" strut tops is a LOT of angle for CV's to be under for any length of time...

it wont even go into gear, and when not in gear still rattles to all shithouse...

old subie i pretty good with ea71 and auto... but gonna build a ea81 with bigger ports etc and 5sp manual in it later...

2coupedup · Post by **2coupedup** » Sun Sep 28, 2008 8:34 pm

ok so i finally finished swapping the boxes and replacing the inner cv boots...

but interestingly i just grabbed a 69000km ej20+loom+ecu+coil packs+airbox+exhaust manifold at a bargin price of 700 plus about 100 in fuel to get down to sussex inlet and back...

so now i'm harrassing my dad to "borrow" some 12mm ally plate from his work hehehe... then sort out my spare flywheel and get it machined/lightened and buy a nice clutch kit...

2coupedup · Post by **2coupedup** » Fri Nov 07, 2008 3:01 pm

seem to have found out why i got the motor n bits for so cheap....

the engine and engine loom are ej20 (bugeye series)...

BUT the ECU and ecu loom are early liberty 4 plug ej22...

i think i can get away with it, i have most of the wires marked but i cant find a decent ej22 4plug pinout anywhere, like just what comes off the ecu so i know what i can get rid off....

so many wires goiing everywhere and i'm sure i wont need most of them....

anyone got a good pinout for ej22???

thanks a heap

stamp_licker · Post by **stamp_licker** » Fri Nov 07, 2008 3:59 pm

have alook on subarino webshots page three of the ej22 conversion has the pinouts.
Here's the link http://community.webshots.com/user/subarino

2coupedup · Post by **2coupedup** » Sat Nov 08, 2008 10:36 am

kewl thanks... got all the wires marked out from the ecu plugs now...

but there is 1 that isnt on any diagrams... a blue wire on plug b58 pin 8 that goes to the plug with the air flow sensor wires...

anyone got any ideas???

2coupedup · Post by **2coupedup** » Sat Nov 08, 2008 4:47 pm

here is a mini simplified pinout i stuck ontop of my ecu while i sorted out the tangled mess

2coupedup · Post by **2coupedup** » Mon Apr 05, 2010 5:56 pm

well been a while...

gold coupe suffered from cancer, chopped it up, all the custom bits came out, workin on getting them into my silver coupe...

not overly happy with the wheel moving so far forward with the L-arm conversion, extra angle on cv's etc...(see pics in previous posts)

so started making some custom/modified adjustable ones...
this was the plan... and have them built to this stage already (pics to come)

anybody done or seen anything similar???

Matt · Post by **Matt** » Mon Apr 05, 2010 9:48 pm

Someone has, i can't remember who know, but they said they keep bending the thread on the custom one. I would just either go the L series arms and modify the couple of things you need to do (I have this done to my ute and love it!!!) or look at a K-mac or similiar weld in camber kit.

brumbyrunner · Post by **brumbyrunner** » Mon Apr 05, 2010 11:30 pm

Interesting.

1> What's the radius rod you're referring to?
2> Where are you measuring the distance of 320 & 370mm on the factory trailing arms? The front is obviously the centre of the pivot point but the rear?
3> Does your strengthened, thickened sidewall trailing arm still retain the ability to twist as the wheel changes camber?

2coupedup · Post by **2coupedup** » Tue Apr 06, 2010 9:22 am

"matt", if i was only worried about camber than yes good choice... but its more the extra clearance available from longer arms...

The main point of this mod was to allow 2" taller front struts/shocks with longer controll ams and a tad of good castor and camber, but not have to cut the guard so far forward

(previously i had no lift kit in but had the 2" strut top spacers in and this allowed the body to stay at lifted height but pulled the engine/gearbox crossmembers up to the body, still with better camber than stock 2"lift and more clearance, downfall - havin to cut a good 270mm odd off the front gurad)

cheers

maxxair · Post by **maxxair** » Tue Apr 06, 2010 11:15 am

heres how NOT to do it, not really helpfull though. Sorry to hear about the coupe, but looking forward to seeing MKII rise from the rubble.

The AUSubaru.com.au Forums

4x4 coupe conversion + extras

KL 71's on the beach...

Big Bang....!!!!!

aaarrrhhhhhgg CR@P... i have wire-phobia

Time for an Update???