The Brumbyrunner Project

vincentvega · Post by **vincentvega** » Mon Apr 05, 2010 8:44 am

those are some great photos from ddirtcomp mate. you must be happy with that!

hyden will still be there next year.

brumbyrunner · Post by **brumbyrunner** » Tue Apr 27, 2010 11:09 pm

I was never happy with the way I mounted the dust lights. They were just knocked up at the last minute and hose clamped to the roll bar. Did the job but it's been bugging me for a while so I came up with this.

riksta · Post by **riksta** » Wed Apr 28, 2010 7:56 pm

hay that looks real neat, good looks and all, well done I like it.

Are you repainting the rollcage or just the parts that need it.

Rik.

brumbyrunner · Post by **brumbyrunner** » Wed Apr 28, 2010 8:51 pm

See how we go for time Rik, I'd like to colour code the outside section of the rollcage to blend it in with the car but I'd also like to re-paint the whole car. So much to do so little time.

Dane · Post by **Dane** » Thu Apr 29, 2010 9:13 am

IMHO, I like the black contrast of the cage, but it's your car and it always looks the goods.

riksta · Post by **riksta** » Thu Apr 29, 2010 9:42 pm

That would real nice and neat to have the rollcage colour coded with the car, class is the word that come to mind.

Hope you get all the things done that you need to have done for the next race, good luck and go and kick some Chapmen butt.

It would nice to see a Brumby at the top of the time sheets.

Rik

brumbyrunner · Post by **brumbyrunner** » Fri Apr 30, 2010 9:49 pm

Finally got around to rebuilding the rear shock towers this afternoon. I've been putting the job off because I'm planning to get myself a Tig but I'm running out of time so had to mig it all again. Maybe next time?
It's still a time consuming job when you have to notch the pipe by hand and your bender won't work on tight radius bends. Next racecar I build will be in a dedicated shed with motorsport quality bender & notcher. Oh and a guillo and a press brake and and .....

pics to follow

brumbyrunner · Post by **brumbyrunner** » Sun May 02, 2010 10:53 am

Definitely need to step up to a tig (or employ a fabricator with one).

T'subaru · Post by **T'subaru** » Sun May 02, 2010 11:32 am

brumbyrunner wrote:Definitely need to step up to a tig (or employ a fabricator with one

Dude, it looks good from my house!

brumbyrunner · Post by **brumbyrunner** » Tue May 04, 2010 10:53 pm

T'subaru wrote:Dude, it looks good from my house!

Thanks dude. I'm in a sport where the norm is unpainted tig welds so everything's on display. But I'm not the only farmer with a mig either.

The gold rollcage does look a bit

brumbyrunner · Post by **brumbyrunner** » Tue May 04, 2010 11:10 pm

With the shock mounts finished I cycled the shocks to check the CV travel. It's tight but I think they'll survive.

Point · Post by **Point** » Wed May 05, 2010 8:28 am

looking good! that's alot of travel for those poor CVs. does the diff touch the ground when it's fully compressed?

Outback bloke · Post by **Outback bloke** » Wed May 05, 2010 8:34 am

I kind of like the gold on the bars.

Are you using the MTR's this year or have you decided on some thing else?

Dane · Post by **Dane** » Wed May 05, 2010 9:43 am

I stand corrected, gold looks good too.

brumbyrunner · Post by **brumbyrunner** » Wed May 05, 2010 2:51 pm

Point wrote:looking good! that's alot of travel for those poor CVs. does the diff touch the ground when it's fully compressed?

Well it would depend on the tyre size but with 30"s it gets down to 3" at full bump.

Outback bloke wrote:I kind of like the gold on the bars.

Are you using the MTR's this year or have you decided on some thing else?

The only problem with the MTRs is that 3 of them are getting on a bit. We replaced 2 last May so they're only 1 year old but the others must be pushing 4.
I'd like to run 16" tyres but there's no point buying new rims if we're changing stud pattern.

riksta · Post by **riksta** » Wed May 05, 2010 8:15 pm

Looking real smart in the gold Stuart, that gold rollcage looks even better then I thought it would.
I like what you have done with the rear, How did you go with the front X member? and will it be as strong as the rear?

Rik.

brumbyrunner · Post by **brumbyrunner** » Wed May 05, 2010 9:26 pm

I built a stronger engine crossmember after Finke last year when the old one cracked up.

I'll eventually replace that with a new fabricated one that'll house a Howe steering rack and new, longer, wider track lower control arms that'll have full movement without binding, like the radius rod setup has now.

brumbyrunner · Post by **brumbyrunner** » Wed May 05, 2010 10:13 pm

Does anyone else have trouble seeing the second pic?

brumbyrunner wrote:

2coupedup · Post by **2coupedup** » Thu May 06, 2010 8:43 am

2nd pic is fine mate, not just talkin bout seeing it but also what i am seeing... would love that sort of travel without my crappy rear camber issues....

cheers

brumbyrunner · Post by **brumbyrunner** » Thu May 06, 2010 11:07 am

That's strange. All I see is a grey square and the code is fine.

To get that much travel without binding you have to ditch the factory camber change rear end. It's entirely possible to build a new camber change design that allows full suspension travel without binding but mine is fixed. It maintains about 3 degrees negative camber throughout the 14" of wheel travel.