Hi all,
I have an MY04 Outback, 2.5 Manual. Recently it's started making a rhythmic clunking noise when turning at low speed (most obvious when parking, U-turns etc). It's a solid clunk that I can feel through the steering wheel.
Some other important things are:
1) It only happens when the car is warm i.e. been driving over half an hour or so.
2) The clunking speeds up as the car's speed increases. It does not happen when the car is stationary.
3) It does not happen when the car is on a hoist - it has to be under load
My local service guy thinks it's either driveshafts/CV or the center diff / viscous coupling. Looking through the forums people seem to be evenly divided. My problem is I don't want to spend $600 replacing the driveshafts just to find it was the viscous coupling (maybe another $1500?).
Does anyone know of a good way to test for each possible problem so one can be ruled out? I hope you can help!
Thanks,
Steve
Clunking noise when turning - Diff or driveshafts?
I am very unfamiliar with Outbacks, but I would have thought that a worn CV joint would make noise regardless of temperature. And I would also think that if it were the CV joint, there would be motion in the joints if you were to give them a tug. But like I said, unfamiliar with Outbacks, just going by own experience.
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ScubyRoo
- Junior Member
- Posts: 584
- Joined: Thu Oct 09, 2008 2:55 pm
- Location: Templestowe, Vic (When in Aus)
Is one direction worse than the other?
is it louder when at the steering is at full lock compared to half way?
is there any thick, black super sticky grease on the firewall or engine block near the inner CV joint? Anything on the wheel hub? Split CV boots let the grease escape and less grease equals hotter CV joints, hotter CV joints equals increased wear... Any 'hot grease/oil' smell when you stop after a decent drive? Sometimes that CV grease can get onto the exhaust and it stinks...
Another option is to have someone outside the car listening carefully to try and pinpoint where the sound is coming from. Drive a tight circle in a parking lot with the bonnet up so you can hear if anything is coming from the gear box (I've actually ridden on quater panels with my head in the engine bay before trying to identify where that damn ticking sound was coming from!).
If it is a centre diff then you should feel like the sound is coming more from next to your seat than the engine bay (CVs).
Would we hear a shagged centre diff more under heavy acceleration around corners as it works with the difference between front and rear wheel travel?
Good luck!
is it louder when at the steering is at full lock compared to half way?
is there any thick, black super sticky grease on the firewall or engine block near the inner CV joint? Anything on the wheel hub? Split CV boots let the grease escape and less grease equals hotter CV joints, hotter CV joints equals increased wear... Any 'hot grease/oil' smell when you stop after a decent drive? Sometimes that CV grease can get onto the exhaust and it stinks...
Another option is to have someone outside the car listening carefully to try and pinpoint where the sound is coming from. Drive a tight circle in a parking lot with the bonnet up so you can hear if anything is coming from the gear box (I've actually ridden on quater panels with my head in the engine bay before trying to identify where that damn ticking sound was coming from!).
If it is a centre diff then you should feel like the sound is coming more from next to your seat than the engine bay (CVs).
Would we hear a shagged centre diff more under heavy acceleration around corners as it works with the difference between front and rear wheel travel?
Good luck!
The Green Machine is up for sale 
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AlpineRaven
- Senior Member
- Posts: 3682
- Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.
it wouldn't be centre diff..
Could be the unijoints, CV joints or somewhere else..
I was gonna say - but since yours is Gen 4, if it was Gen 3 or 2, you could get 1 drive shaft from a wrecker and swap it over left and right till clicking goes...
Sure the engine mounts are ok?
Is the fluid levels up in power steering?
Is there any specific speed that the clicking comes/goes away? Same goes with revs... (different gears in same speed etc)
Cheers
AP
Could be the unijoints, CV joints or somewhere else..
I was gonna say - but since yours is Gen 4, if it was Gen 3 or 2, you could get 1 drive shaft from a wrecker and swap it over left and right till clicking goes...
Sure the engine mounts are ok?
Is the fluid levels up in power steering?
Is there any specific speed that the clicking comes/goes away? Same goes with revs... (different gears in same speed etc)
Cheers
AP
Subarus that I have/had:
1995 Liberty "Rallye" - 5MT AWD, LSD - *written off 25/8/06 in towing accident.
1996 Liberty Wagon - SkiFX AWD 5MT D/R, Lifted.. Outback Sway Bar, 1.59:1 Low Gearing see thread: 1.59:1 in EJ Box Page
Sold at 385,000kms in July 2011.
2007 Liberty BP Wagon, 2.5i automatic
1995 Liberty "Rallye" - 5MT AWD, LSD - *written off 25/8/06 in towing accident.
1996 Liberty Wagon - SkiFX AWD 5MT D/R, Lifted.. Outback Sway Bar, 1.59:1 Low Gearing see thread: 1.59:1 in EJ Box Page
Sold at 385,000kms in July 2011.
2007 Liberty BP Wagon, 2.5i automatic
ScubyRoo - it's equally bad turning left or right. I'll have to check tomorrow if it gets louder the more you turn the wheel. No grease visible... I'll try to have a real good listen for the source of the noise tomorrow too.
AlpineRaven - will check engine mounts and fluid levels. Re speed and revs, it's only noticeable at low speed when turning fairly sharply - I'll do some experimenting at different speeds and revs and let you know.
Cheers for the assistance, hopefully will be solved soon!
Any other tips or ideas also appreciated!!
Steve
AlpineRaven - will check engine mounts and fluid levels. Re speed and revs, it's only noticeable at low speed when turning fairly sharply - I'll do some experimenting at different speeds and revs and let you know.
Cheers for the assistance, hopefully will be solved soon!
Any other tips or ideas also appreciated!!
Steve
Viscous coupling
Hi jamiesda,
Yes, it turned out to be the viscous coupling - part of the centre diff. It's apparently quite common (just Google subaru viscous coupling!).
My Outback was written off 2 months ago when hit by a semi, I then bought a 2002 model with 150k on the clock and guess what? Same problem. Luckily it was covered by the dealer warranty. I got the parts from sbaru.com.au and with labour it cost about $1600 all up.
Manual Suby owners - make sure your tyres are rotated regularly and have the same wear all-round - uneven diameters will cause your viscous coupling to overheat, the fluid then breaks down and it's stuffed. Handbrake turns don't help either
Yes, it turned out to be the viscous coupling - part of the centre diff. It's apparently quite common (just Google subaru viscous coupling!).
My Outback was written off 2 months ago when hit by a semi, I then bought a 2002 model with 150k on the clock and guess what? Same problem. Luckily it was covered by the dealer warranty. I got the parts from sbaru.com.au and with labour it cost about $1600 all up.
Manual Suby owners - make sure your tyres are rotated regularly and have the same wear all-round - uneven diameters will cause your viscous coupling to overheat, the fluid then breaks down and it's stuffed. Handbrake turns don't help either