Coolant and oil leak in 92 liberty

freddo · Post by **freddo** » Thu Nov 11, 2010 5:50 pm

planning on replacing waterpump on monday, day off...
So picked up some parts today.
Went to Subie and got a waterpump, gaskets and thermostat.
at repco i picked up some coolant, radiator flush/cleaner, and some copper loctite for the gaskets.

any more parts needed/recommended?

just to run through it again here are the steps i can see myself doing...
1. drain radiator

2. take off cooling fan, take off access belts and tensioner

3. pull a couple of leads out of coil pack, and get that pesky crankshaft bolt undone. good ole starter motor kick method...

4. painstakingly lever off the outer camshaft pulley, then take off timing belt covers.

5. mark timing belt where marks on crankshaft and camshaft lie, doesnt need to be in tdc, ie. whereever the engine happens to be sitting when i get to timing belt??

6. unscrew tensioner, take off belt, take off 2 idlers that are in the way of waterpump.

7. take off waterpump, make sure no traces of last gasket are on the block.

8. whack the new thermostat in the new waterpump. put on old thermostat housing, with new gasket and loctite.

9. chuck the waterpump into place (gasket and loctite again), tighten all screws in order to similar tightness.

10. idler pulleys back on, belt lined up, doublecheck correct number of teeth between crankshaft and idler pulley marks.

11. plastic covers back on, squeeze crankshaft pulley back on, probably whack a screwdriver down that special spot to stop engine turning, so i can get crankshaft bolt tight enough again.

12. access belts back on

13. flush/clean radiator, flush again with h20, fill up with coolant and pray like hell it starts

Any additions?

heres some questions for ye...
1. engine can be sitting wherever it is for me to mark and take off belt (ie no TDC)

2. any ideas for keeping the engine still while i tighten main crankshaft bolt (its an auto...sigh..)

3. when's the earliest i can fire her up? main thing i'm worried about is getting the timing right again..

what do you recon?

AlpineRaven · Post by **AlpineRaven** » Thu Nov 11, 2010 7:04 pm

freddo wrote:planning on replacing waterpump on monday, day off...
So picked up some parts today.
Went to Subie and got a waterpump, gaskets and thermostat.
at repco i picked up some coolant, radiator flush/cleaner, and some copper loctite for the gaskets.

any more parts needed/recommended?

just to run through it again here are the steps i can see myself doing...
1. drain radiator

2. take off cooling fan, take off access belts and tensioner

3. pull a couple of leads out of coil pack, and get that pesky crankshaft bolt undone. good ole starter motor kick method...

4. painstakingly lever off the outer camshaft pulley, then take off timing belt covers.

5. mark timing belt where marks on crankshaft and camshaft lie, doesnt need to be in tdc, ie. whereever the engine happens to be sitting when i get to timing belt??

6. unscrew tensioner, take off belt, take off 2 idlers that are in the way of waterpump.

7. take off waterpump, make sure no traces of last gasket are on the block.

8. whack the new thermostat in the new waterpump. put on old thermostat housing, with new gasket and loctite.

9. chuck the waterpump into place (gasket and loctite again), tighten all screws in order to similar tightness.

10. idler pulleys back on, belt lined up, doublecheck correct number of teeth between crankshaft and idler pulley marks.

11. plastic covers back on, squeeze crankshaft pulley back on, probably whack a screwdriver down that special spot to stop engine turning, so i can get crankshaft bolt tight enough again.

12. access belts back on

13. flush/clean radiator, flush again with h20, fill up with coolant and pray like hell it starts

Any additions?

heres some questions for ye...
1. engine can be sitting wherever it is for me to mark and take off belt (ie no TDC)

2. any ideas for keeping the engine still while i tighten main crankshaft bolt (its an auto...sigh..)

3. when's the earliest i can fire her up? main thing i'm worried about is getting the timing right again..

what do you recon?

1) You dont need to take the fans off, if your gonna change the coolant, take the radiator out - that way it prevents accidental damage to the core and while its out give it a good flush.

2) you dont need to take the tension leads off - no need.

3) Un-doing the crankshaft's bolt is a tricky place - due no rattle gun - there is a way of removing it, but re-install the bolt is tricky again.

4) you can start the engine once the timing belt is secured and safe to start up as long you line everything up, that is the earliest - but dont run for too long due no water.

Otherwise above is all good.

Cheers
AP

freddo · Post by **freddo** » Sat Nov 13, 2010 4:08 pm

cheers mate,

so anyone have any ideas on how to tighten crankshaft bolt without a rattle gun? or is the screwdriver trick the go?

AlpineRaven · Post by **AlpineRaven** » Sat Nov 13, 2010 8:45 pm

freddo wrote:cheers mate,

so anyone have any ideas on how to tighten crankshaft bolt without a rattle gun? or is the screwdriver trick the go?

Hmm good question - first thing came in my mind was a breaker bar and an heavy hammer at the end to give it a good wack - but it doesnt sound good for the engine, Ive done that sort of thing with other things but not on engine (i've done it before with CV joint's nut)....

Rattle Gun is very handy, and I know not everyone has it. (I have an air and electric/battery rattle guns)
Cheers
AP

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Sat Nov 13, 2010 10:09 pm

freddo wrote:cheers mate,

so anyone have any ideas on how to tighten crankshaft bolt without a rattle gun? or is the screwdriver trick the go?

I use and recommend this bar and a little loctite

http://www.onlinetoolshop.com.au/produc ... Wrench/474