EA82 Oil pump removal ?

richard the fish · Post by **richard the fish** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 7:02 pm

I want to do the seals in the oil pump on my 93 sportswagon to see if this is the cause of the really bad tappet noise. Can anybody please tell me what I need to remove to do it. Do I need to drop the motor? Or remove the radiator? Or is there enough room to just take it out with the motor and radiator in place?

Also Anybody know a good mechanic who knows old Subies in Sydney? Close to the city as I am in the Inner West.

Cheers

The Fish

Wagonman · Post by **Wagonman** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 7:13 pm

It'll be basically like doing timing belts but pulling out the oil pump aswell. You can do it with the engine and radiator in the car. Remove fans, crank pulley, belts, timing covers/belts and thats about it..

If you have the tools theres enough info/helpful people on here to help you do it yourself if you're keen..

Wagonman.

discopotato03 · Post by **discopotato03** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 9:13 pm

My advise is to reset the belt pensioner's first which you can do by pulling the rubber plugs out of the belt covers to access the bolt heads . You wind the engine over by hand and back of the bolts enough to let the tensioner springs real in any belt slack . MAKE sure you retorque them to the factory spec because the bolts screw into the aluminium cases and strip very easily if overtightened .

Its a lot less work than you're suggesting unless you aim to change the belts/idlers/tensioners anyway .

My personal experience is that EA82s tap because the belts get slack and the valve springs make them thrash the rockers at idle .

Your call .

littlewhiteute · Post by **littlewhiteute** » Wed Jan 19, 2011 6:56 am

discopotato03 wrote:My advise is to reset the belt pensioner's first which you can do by pulling the rubber plugs out of the belt covers to access the bolt heads . You wind the engine over by hand and back of the bolts enough to let the tensioner springs real in any belt slack . MAKE sure you retorque them to the factory spec because the bolts screw into the aluminium cases and strip very easily if overtightened .

Its a lot less work than you're suggesting unless you aim to change the belts/idlers/tensioners anyway .

My personal experience is that EA82s tap because the belts get slack and the valve springs make them thrash the rockers at idle .

Your call .

That's a good point that many don't understand.

Sloppy camshaft drives (generally timing belts) will make hydraulic valvetrains rattle at low speed.

richard the fish · Post by **richard the fish** » Wed Jan 19, 2011 5:39 pm

Thanks guys,
The rattle comes and goes, seems to be no pattern thats what made me think oil pump. most of the time it is real loud then all of a sudden I get in the car and it purs like a dream. Even on long freeways runs for a couple of hours, if it is going to rattle it will just keep on rattling then maybe the next time I get in nothing?

Thanks again
The fish

littlewhiteute · Post by **littlewhiteute** » Wed Jan 19, 2011 7:13 pm

I'd be trying a product called "Llfter Free" by Nulon.

Sounds more like gummed up HLAs. (Hydraulic Lash Adjusters)

richard the fish · Post by **richard the fish** » Wed Jan 19, 2011 8:26 pm

I tried the Nulon lifter free, but a trade use only 1 and ran it for 600km then new oil and filter, still the same ?
cheers