85 Brumby Wiring,

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Thu Jan 20, 2011 6:50 pm

A horn with just one terminal is likely to be the pos terminal connect and hope it has a metal horn body needing to be bolted to the car body. To test use a blade fuse from your battery pos to horn terminal , our standard blade fuses fit in the spade terminal female connectors.

I may have misread earlier posts on your fans. You say inside and outside. I have two elec fans between rad and engine.That's it, but sounds like you have one mounted in between radiator and grille then?

Factory fan on driver side usually has ign power to one wire and earth earths out on switch in the side of radiator, or that switch feeds a relay - forgotten
You may find shortcuts electrical has supplied batery power to fan and sucks switching earth from switch on side of radiator that is just an external round brass pin. To tinker you may find to run engine until you hear a fan cut in as you watch temp gauge just over halfway. Test light between battery pos and that pin may not work at cold or below half and work when a few mm over half of temp gauge. Personally I like a relay in all fans supply pos side, needs more wires and understanding but beats burning your subie to the ground

Aftermarket horns but not air horns with compressor then?

Have you got a little cheapy test light or multimeter to be able to test these things for power or earth connections?

Do you understand how a relay works and the connections?

numbers close to pins or diagram cast into box 85 is to earth, 87 goes to unit to be powered up, 30 comes from fuse protected power source with either power all the time, ign only power or acc power. 86 supplies 12v + power usually via a switch like horn or spotties. Subies are a bit odd in how they switch lights, maybe horns too so need to tinker and test with fuses

EAS51 · Post by **EAS51** » Fri Jan 21, 2011 12:21 pm

Correct i have a fan between the radiator and grille. The original fan (inside) has the little lug broken off of it which the 2nd yellow wire pushes into.

I think i might by just a new horn instead of tinkering with the ones i have now.

I do have a test light.

No i don't understand relays or connections.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Fri Jan 21, 2011 2:18 pm

Bookmark or favourite this website to refer to to learn a bit about relays and other 12Volt electrical stuuf.

http://www.the12volt.com/relays/page5.asp

littlewhiteute · Post by **littlewhiteute** » Fri Jan 21, 2011 4:05 pm

Disappointing to see it took 10 relays to make remote start/stop.

I did it with 4 relays in '95.

EAS51 · Post by **EAS51** » Fri Jan 21, 2011 7:52 pm

To be honest i don't want to learn wiring and electrical. If something comes with a relay it usually has destructions on how to wire it up. And with my luck i wouldn't even know how to find how to set up a relay for a fan or whatever.
I got a electrician next door he probably understands them if i ever need help :S.
After all of my electrical issues.
Now my battery decides it wants to go red (check up or something) - Lame.

Now with my electricals good. I can work on the body. The trays already brushed chassis black. Hopefully stop the rust coming through =) Although i did rust convert and prime what was there.
Can't wait to get it on the road yay.. =)

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Fri Jan 21, 2011 8:12 pm

Thats OK. It's there if you wanna learn just the basics of one relay on its own. Learning , or rather working out how a relay worked before I got my first car was something that has been handy for a few years now.

Did not mean for you to take on their massive connections of relays. That forum gave me a 4 relay answer for one that someone in here Gannon solved with just one!!

Not hard to understand and it won't be last time a relay gets in your way. Good that you have resolved and moving onto the next phase.

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Sat Jan 22, 2011 12:44 am

EAS51 wrote:Now my battery decides it wants to go red (check up or something) - Lame.

I'd make sure that some of those "relays" you removed weren't the voltage regulator

as it seems (only a possibility) your alternator is overcharging your battery?

EAS51 · Post by **EAS51** » Sat Jan 22, 2011 10:22 am

Well where would the alternator relay be ?
Shouldn't it have one in the alternator itself ?

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Sat Jan 22, 2011 12:47 pm

Some EA81 models have them built-in to the Alternator and some have them bolted to the strut tower behind the battery area. You may have it there still but may have been shorted doing the wiring removal?? it may pay to drive into your local auto sparky and get them to check it for you.

EAS51 · Post by **EAS51** » Sat Jan 22, 2011 1:27 pm

Cars not registered so can't exactly drive it anywhere. And there is a black box probably 10 cm long with 3 fuses in it. well 2 are wires and 1 is a fuse.

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Sat Jan 22, 2011 4:36 pm

Nah.. thats the fusable links so if you have pics of what you took/cut out? maybe I can see if it's in that lot?

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Jan 22, 2011 5:16 pm

if that black box is plastic and has three fusable links inside under a plastic cover and outside is a mount for a relay or something - it may be fusable ible or able? link box or something else. Maybe a pic of the alternator willl help going off on possible WGC, part number of alternator helps too

EAS51 · Post by **EAS51** » Sun Jan 23, 2011 1:37 pm

All the extras are in the bin. I got a whole new wiring loom out of a car at the wreckers everything that was on it is connected now.

Theres 2 wires from the alternator to the coilpack. red cylinder thing.
I wouldn't even know where to find a part number lol.

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Sun Jan 23, 2011 4:16 pm

Drop into Jaycar, Dick Smiths, Tandys or anything like and pick yourself up a Multimeter. You'll need to only spend around $15 but it will be the best $15 you'll ever spend. This tool will help you find power, find faults and check the output power of your Alternator.

EAS51 · Post by **EAS51** » Sun Jan 23, 2011 4:54 pm

Alright well what would the correct power outputs be for the alternator and whatever else i should check. I might just borrow one of the neighbour.

Matt · Post by **Matt** » Sun Jan 23, 2011 6:17 pm

Output of the alternator should be around 14 Volt dc.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun Jan 23, 2011 8:19 pm

measured at either the fine thread stud coming out the back or at the battery when it is running. Shouldn't go above about 14.4V through the revs.

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Mon Jan 24, 2011 12:54 am

Good idea if you get on well with your neighboor.

If the regulator is working correctly, it should work between 12 and 14 volts and if the reg is not then it will stay around 14v

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Mon Jan 24, 2011 8:27 am

or, as I found out, a flat bettery in my old dicksmiff unit, it told me 17.5 V, replaced reg and got same result. Put a new battery in multimeter and got correct 14.4V !!

openflame06 · Post by **openflame06** » Wed Feb 02, 2011 6:50 pm

There is a fuse box right behind the battery, and it has three wires going to it if any of these are loose or anything your lights wont work, ive got an '89 and similar story, fans direct wired and other strange things

Id send a photo but mine has electronic ignition so i think its a little different.