Well XT6s were sold new in the States so they have a few spares from wrecked cars floating around . I tried a while back to get some of them to remove the CV and DOJ's and freight them over here for me but it seemed they didn't want to bother or get their hands dirty .
I think if you went up 3" and wanted to have longer control arms made up or modified std ones like I have then Lib shafts are probably fine .
An L probably has up to 2 degrees of positive camber at std ride height and I dread to think what it is raised 3 inches . The Rally fabricators who did mine quoted a Datsun 1600 as needing ~ 10mm per degree length increase to alter static camber angles .
Making the broad assumption that L's are similar to go from possibly 3+ positive to neutral or 1/2 deg nagatibe may need a 35mm plus extending so the Lib shaft could be Ok .
Don't quote me but I think mine are 15mm a side longer than std but my car sits a little lower than std at the front and its larger anti roll bars back and front keep it a LOT more level than the tiny std ones did so plunge depth is less of an issue for me .
Your call but neutral or 0 camber would be desirable particularly with big wide boots and best efforts to drag caser out of the negative into the positive region .
Actually thinking about it you may also run into problems with the radius rod trying to twist the control arm because its bolted across the top of it . So as the suspension rises and falls the radius rod scribes an arc tristing the control arm and over time chopping out the rubber bush .
I wouldn't EVER use urethane bushes in L control arms because they don't deform the same as rubber ones can and often overload components because of it . Had the factory had ideas of longer wheel travel in these cars I reckon they would have used larger diameter rubber bushes in a denser rubber to give a bit more compliance without necessarily a lot of lateral movement .
A .
EOI -> Custom 'L' Sreies front control arms
[quote="discopotato03"]Datsun 1600 as needing ~ 10mm per degree length increase to alter static camber angles .QUOTE]
datsun 1200 are the same, redrill the engine cradel 20 mm inwards to give 2 degrees camber each which is about what you want.
as for using urathane bushes for offroad not many people do, you need the defrmation and what not, for onroad and the rally wagon it will all be urathane more control over whats happening.
what about a custom middle shaft?
do a VW baja trick and spread the CVs further apart with a custom longer middle shaft and shorter outers, it changes the angles the cvs have to go through and would make them longer
datsun 1200 are the same, redrill the engine cradel 20 mm inwards to give 2 degrees camber each which is about what you want.
as for using urathane bushes for offroad not many people do, you need the defrmation and what not, for onroad and the rally wagon it will all be urathane more control over whats happening.
what about a custom middle shaft?
do a VW baja trick and spread the CVs further apart with a custom longer middle shaft and shorter outers, it changes the angles the cvs have to go through and would make them longer
if im needed for anything [email protected] and ill try and get back to you.
pickstock racing fabrication
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GETDIRTYCLOTHING
track day classics and customs
pickstock racing fabrication
pickstock racing photography
GETDIRTYCLOTHING
track day classics and customs
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El_Freddo
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ADR approval is not what I'm seeking - All I want/need in the long run is the approval of an engineer to tick it off the list...
Disco as you've said about the radius rod casting an arc thus twisting the control arm's bush this is correct - but it wouldn't be any more than the standard setup would through the same amount of upward or downward travel. There may be a little more pull backwards due to the "effectively" shorter radius rods as well.
I'm not sure that I'll be needed liberty drive shafts - that sounds a little extreme for what I'm after, but will keep this in mind if shafts start popping
NB: 3 inch body lift - but with 2 inch blocks on the radius rod plate, so the radius rod mount has come down from the body with the rest of the suspension/engine crossmember, just not the whole 3 inches...
Cheers
Bennie
Disco as you've said about the radius rod casting an arc thus twisting the control arm's bush this is correct - but it wouldn't be any more than the standard setup would through the same amount of upward or downward travel. There may be a little more pull backwards due to the "effectively" shorter radius rods as well.
I'm not sure that I'll be needed liberty drive shafts - that sounds a little extreme for what I'm after, but will keep this in mind if shafts start popping
NB: 3 inch body lift - but with 2 inch blocks on the radius rod plate, so the radius rod mount has come down from the body with the rest of the suspension/engine crossmember, just not the whole 3 inches...
Cheers
Bennie
