Price on a 89' touring wagon

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SmokeyBbear
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Price on a 89' touring wagon

Post by SmokeyBbear » Wed Jun 22, 2011 1:01 am

Hey guys
Been in abit of a pickle with my car and well its come to a point in time where I got to deside whether to fix my car or to buy something else as I don't have alot of money at the moment
But the question is what I would get for my touring wagon if it was running or in its current start so was just hoping for some ball park figures
I believe it is something fairly minor to fix as there is no spark in the engine
Other than that they body is abit rough but has things like a bullbar and driving lights
Was thinking of $600 no running in its current state but don't know if that is over pricing it or not
But running I was hoping to get around $1000 to $1200 for it
Just want some opinions of what kind of my money people would pay for it
Any imput would be great

Cheers, Aaron

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SmokeyBbear
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Post by SmokeyBbear » Wed Jun 22, 2011 1:04 am

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Battlewagon
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Post by Battlewagon » Wed Jun 22, 2011 6:10 am

Is it the fuel injected EA82, or the Carby one?

Also depends on your location. If you're in Bourke for example, you won't get what you would if you were in Sydney.

I picked mine up with a great body but busted motor for $500

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SmokeyBbear
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Post by SmokeyBbear » Wed Jun 22, 2011 12:13 pm

Its fuel injected and im in Adelaide not far from the CBD....motor is fine I really do think its just a electrical problem but im not very cluely with these motors so it is limited what I can do and I really don't want to book it in to a repair only to find that I lose money getting it fixed
Anyway that is good with these motors should be able to suss it out fairly easily

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Alex
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Post by Alex » Wed Jun 22, 2011 12:56 pm

fix it up and you should get up near 2k for it

its DEFINATELY worth more than 1000bux

alex
my07 Outback
my13 Hyundai i45(shhhh)
my02 Gen3 Liberty limited ed.

previously
L-series wagon, LSD, EJ20turbo, 29in tyres, 'wanky wagon'
2000 gen3 outback, lifted, otherwise stock.

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SmokeyBbear
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Post by SmokeyBbear » Wed Jun 22, 2011 1:31 pm

Cheers mate, while I don't think I will get 2k for it from what I have seen on car sales and cars guide I mite ask $1600 for it...in which case it proberly would be worth fixing....quotes so far are $250 for a diagnosis and $320 approx for a diagnosis
Cheers for your time to post

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Venom
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Post by Venom » Wed Jun 22, 2011 2:14 pm

There's so many dirt cheap gen1 libertys selling on Ebay and Gumtree (well, over this way anyway) thats i think it's making selling the older models very difficult. There's 2 Gen1's on ebay right now for 500-700, a Gen2 for $950... with those kinds of prices it doesn't seem worth selling an MY or L series in that kind of market.

I say keep your car, fix it up and enjoy it.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

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SmokeyBbear
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Post by SmokeyBbear » Wed Jun 22, 2011 7:13 pm

Umm not sure what gen it is, all I know is it is a 89'.....as soon as it is fixed I will be putting it up for sale as I want to upgrade
I haven't been on ebay to look but most of the L series I have seen on car sales and gumtree in adelaide that are in the same condition as mine seem to go between $1400 and $2400 so when it comes time to see it I will be putting it up for $1700 knowing that people will want to haggle me down, all I want it the money back I have spent on it like the stereo, bullbar and lights and other stuff I have fixed up on it

Cheers,Aaron

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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Thu Jun 23, 2011 12:18 am

The L series is completely different to a Liberty generation 1 or generation 2! That's why Venom said it would be hard to sell your L on the current market as its "inferior" to the liberty simply by age and in some aspects design...

One thing before you go about selling is trying to fix it without having someone look at it for you which = dollars out of your pocket.

Try finding the two black plugs above the driver's feet area - you will have to remove a kick panel which isn't hard to do with a phillips head screw driver... Connect these two plugs, turn the ignition to the "ON" position then read the codes the "check engine" light produces. If the check engine light doesn't work then check the globe's condition - replace if blown.

What the flashes mean: The long pause is by 10 so 2 long pauses = 20. after this there will be short pulses. So for example 3 long and 1 short = code 31. This can then be deciphered with the code page in the haynes manual or by a search on here - I'm sure it's been posted before about the codes.

This will then tell you which sensors are dodgy that will either need cleaning/adjusting or replacing. Once you have these sorted it should be a goer for a very long time. yes it might cost some money but in the long run you're going to have an engine that will last you a long time if its been serviced regularly.

Any other info you can give us will help out in us helping you ;)

Cheers

Bennie
"The lounge room is not a workshop..."
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SmokeyBbear
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Post by SmokeyBbear » Fri Jun 24, 2011 5:10 am

Cheers for that mate, you I thought that the later libertys would kick the price for the L series down abit but still seems to be a market for them....when I was looking for one when I bought this they seemed to get snapped up pretty quick lol
Its at a auto electrican now so what ever is wrong with it they will find it....just got tired of stuffing around with it
One good thing bout the car though is the previous owner had it for 9 years and came with a series history that showed that they did maintain it lol
Either way I reakon I will try and get rid of it and upgrade to a pajero
Thank you for your time to help me out
Hopefully it will be running soon......first weekend that its running im taking it up to the drive on beach and go couch surfing lol

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