EA81 into trike VW automatic

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Sat Sep 17, 2011 10:16 pm

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Vent-5-Louvr ... %26ps%3D63

bout $27 each for 5 louvre. 3 louvre also available. would be great to get rid of under bonnet heat.

Nice feeling taking a punt and the result is spot on.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Sep 17, 2011 11:05 pm

Tweety you get this weeks award for progress , and where is the Tweety Yellow from ? Yellow pages? I tort I taw a puddy tat feather colour ?

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Sun Sep 18, 2011 7:55 am

Thanks steptoe.

Its safety yellow, the same as the yellow signs on the road. Its a gelcoat colour.

Beleive it or not initially I was going to order hot pink (non metallic). In the 70's Holden came out with hot pink on their Toranas. The GTR XU-1 had that colour too but very rare and with black trim it look awesome and different.

I like to be different as you can see. There was never a flat hot pink Panther trike made. But resale value worried me so changed to the yellow.

Purple is also a nice Panther colour and deep wine red.

Gotta mount that temp guage, fix the rear protection bar, rough tune and exhaust.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun Sep 18, 2011 12:20 pm

The Pink Panther was a diamond , no ? Yellow is a happy colour

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Sun Sep 18, 2011 1:58 pm

lol

Rarely have I gone to purchase items and it all comes together so well. Today I had luck on my side.

I had purchased a regular temp gauge form ebay for $16. was reluctant to hook it up on the basis that 1/ I could find an ideal spot to mount it and 2/ I had to find an actual mount for it.

With that in mind I entered Autobarn today seeking out a sender unit for my new Davies Craig thermo fan. These switches dont come in the packet and are sold seperately.

Armed with a blocking bolt from the radiator to match it up the guy initially told me he'd have to order one. Then he had an alternative. A temperature sender that has its own housing, that is installed between the radiator hose inlet (or thermostat housing) and the hose. He informed me that if I was to purchase also a thermo fan adjustable unit then that item can screw into the temperature unit housing.

The bonus was that the monitor on the dash, fitted with velcoe and easily fixed to my van electric brake unit, has a temperature guage as well as a voltage indicator.

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Sun Sep 18, 2011 4:22 pm

Won't you get no temp reading until the thermostat is open completely? If you put the temp sender inbetween thermostat and hose.

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Sun Sep 18, 2011 6:20 pm

Sort of silverbullet. Valid question. Dont know if I have all the answers.

If the engine is stone cold it reads the current atmospheric temperature. I just connected it all up.

27 degrees it read. Then as the thermostat opens it should get a rush of warm water. When it reaches a set temperature the fan goes on then 8 degrees less than that temp it goes off. (see questions below)

It has two modes, temp and voltage. The voltage is current battery voltage. This has two other settings. one is when the battery voltage drops to a point and another is a warning. Thats when the units light blue background changes to purple and flashes.

Back to the temp. I have a small hole in my thermostat...looks like it was there since new. this would trickle a little warm water pass the sender. But I have a question-

My thermostat is 88 degrees. I have set the fan to go on at 92 degrees. Means it will go off at 84 degrees- 8 degrees less. That would mean the thermostat will shut off wouldnt it?

What setting would my adisers here recommed and why please.??

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Sun Sep 18, 2011 7:11 pm

How much was it all tweety?

littlewhiteute · Post by **littlewhiteute** » Sun Sep 18, 2011 7:17 pm

I think you'll find the whole lot will work better with the sender in the engine, either inlet manifold near where the factory temp sender is, or engine side of the thermostat.

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Sun Sep 18, 2011 7:41 pm

Brumby Kid. $149 for the fan unit. $29 for the hose insert sender unit. $10 for a random 32mm hose to help connect.

Lil' white ute. I think you are right. Thats where the manufacturer has its temp sender. However this unit has two wires coming from its sender. eg it is a unique one to that unit and is smaller in diameter than the Subie temp sender. If it was compatible I'd screw it in there.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Mon Sep 19, 2011 9:45 am

I noted the 32 on the package. Subes radiators are 30mm outlets and SCA did not have 30m in stock when I 'looked' Your MR2 hoses are 32mm or you need to play with things?
Running the sender in a spot where it fits and does not leak is a bonus. It is likely to give a good indication of the hotter temps rather than the colder ones.

Never seen these fan controllers, nice and tidy. I use engine watch dog and they are about to release a new unit to control fan or anything relay so have been noting some closer temp readings on my old one. The Vortex only fan turns off at 80C metal temp, I think I have an 88 thermostat. Fan turn on temp TBA. Can't believe factory turbo one electric fan !! have removed my add on water pump clutch fan - so noisy but kept things cooler - fitted a 280mm electric unit I scored from cruizingbrumby 4 years ago, just got a fused relay and need a temp switch to manually control - maybe off the brake lght circuit to hold on while stopped?

As my unit temp sender screws on metal it is all metal temps, coz water temp senders need water to indicate temp - suddenly lose all water- steam does not always tickle the sender to tell the gauge reader.

I have found with Subaru sized thermostat not the smaller aftermarket unless you get the big aftermarket I can cruise at about 72C metal temp with just water, with coolant mix is about 75C metal temp. I set my alarm to go off at 86 or 88C metal temp - all very early I know, but in dong so I noticed a 5 degree rise one day in traffic that was not normal. Turned out I had lost 500ml coolant and head gasket was on its way out. Saved me from baked engine.

When using the magic block leak sealer instructins were to get operating about 100C for stuff to work and set. This unit allowed me to confidentally do this and momentarily saw 109C metal temp - water gauge started to hit red. Had to completely block radiator airflow to do this. How hot the metal gets at red or off the water gauge - no idea

Mid 90's Honda Civics hav an awesome fan on a radiator that is only about 400mm x 400 single row !

Smokey · Post by **Smokey** » Mon Sep 19, 2011 11:03 am

Tweety wrote:...However this unit has two wires coming from its sender. eg it is a unique one to that unit and is smaller in diameter than the Subie temp sender. If it was compatible I'd screw it in there.

I too am looking at this setup for my EA82 water temp gauge. Id like to use the original sender hole but looked at the top radiator sender adaptor too.

Doing a little searching for a adaptor for the stock location it looks like the thread is M16 1.5 pitch. My sender is a 1/8" NPT. Doing a search on that info doesn't return much so I was wondering if there is a name for the M16 1.5. i.e. some generic name that references that size thread. Have not found the answer yet.

There are a few eBay adaptors that appear to be in the UK, but $$$ and time i'd much rather something closer to home.

Below is a pc of the sender for the EA82 temp sender off the Tridon website. Note the EA81 and EA82 are listed as the same part.

EDIT: Update on this one, found a site that mentioned Deamontweaks in the UK but $27 in postage alone....then found a reference to Bursons, 2 min call and I have one on order under $10. See if it fits when I pick it up Thursday night. Happy to order anyone else one if needed/cant source locally etc.

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Mon Sep 19, 2011 6:25 pm

Firstly all I have to do in the morning is fill the radiaotr and start my trike!! All is done except for exhaust and that is booked in for 3rd October. am stoked. finally there.

Steptoe you are right about 32mm for MR2 radiator outlets, same as sender black mounting unit I purchased. so I also bought a radiator hose that was 30mm and squeezed it on the unit then onto the thermostat housing. fitted fine.

Turned ignition on and new temp/volt gauge told me my battery over last 4 weeks have gone down to 11.7 volts. on with the charger. this volt unit is handy. I like the flashing warning ability too.

Take your experience on board with cut in and out of fan temps. will lower the off to 80 and on at 88.

Radiaotr hot air will pass over top of engine. Vaporising of fuel a concern so palced a larger heater hose over the fuel hose the last section near the carbie.

I'm hoping, weather permitting and it looks grim, I'll get the engine running well enough to check for leaks etc and ride it up the nearest hill no far from here to get the timing right. then I can adjust the mixture and....well there isnt much else to check!! auto trans oil level....

FROG · Post by **FROG** » Mon Sep 19, 2011 6:58 pm

Tweety wrote:then I can adjust the mixture and....well there isnt much else to check!! auto trans oil level....

the road ahead.........................

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Mon Sep 19, 2011 8:35 pm

oh yeh frog....forgot about that...

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Tue Sep 20, 2011 8:49 am

I found AU ? Falcons a good source of heat shield from between fuel tank and exhaust, very workable and tough sandwhich of dimpled aluminium sheet - maybe shield your radiators air from carby with this stuff. I use it between turbo and gas mixer makes a hell of a difference

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Tue Sep 20, 2011 12:37 pm

steptoe wrote:I found AU ? Falcons a good source of heat shield from between fuel tank and exhaust, very workable and tough sandwhich of dimpled aluminium sheet - maybe shield your radiators air from carby with this stuff. I use it between turbo and gas mixer makes a hell of a difference

Even just some sort of shiny shroud around the front of the air filter between it and the radiator would probably make a difference.

Looking good! I bet you're itching to fire her up!

Cheers

Bennie

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Tue Sep 20, 2011 2:55 pm

thanks for the shield ideas.

Well I fired it up eventually and went for my first ride. wOW. even on the primary throat it went really good BUT....

there had to be a few issues.

It was ahrd to start. I had spark. I took off the top of the 32/36 carby and checked and cleaned jets. the ones at the side accessible form outside are 50's. The ones inside at top are 160 and the other unreadable. the lower ones are 135 and 140.

I found that the engine starts ok when its left for a while. If it cuts out it wont restart.

When I gun the throttle it feels like at the point when the second throat is about to open that it dies totally until I back off the thottle.

Got it idling well, revs well (not second throat), bare in mind guys that wouldnt have a clue where the timing is. my timing light died.

Apart from that there were no leaks, no white smoke out the exhaust etc. there is a bit of black smoke on start up.

update:

my timing light worked after all so checked it and found it was heaps advanced, around 20 degrees or more. so got that right (little over a quarter inch form centre of block halves), redid the mixture, fixed a bad lead on the thermo fan and now cuts in/out as it should 88/80 degrees. went for a ride (couldnt help myself). Seconfd throay still has motor dying as soon as it wants to cut in on the throttle.

Tacho must be out. 2100 rpm at 100kph.....cant be right. was 3200 with the VW engine. so if it is out at 100kph then idle would be out too. mmm gotta study some gearing figures.

when idling at operating temp I can move the second throat and the engine revs up as long as the primary throat isnt also moved.

That might give you gurus a clue wha tthe problem is. My guess....from a novice...is that when the second throat wants to cut in the air or fuel is in excess......but what would I know??

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Tue Sep 20, 2011 7:46 pm

also fellas....how come the Subie engine runs the opposite way to the VW? the subie engine at the crank pully runs clockwise and the VW anti clockwise,,,

and what would cause the tacho to be out reading 1000 rpm less?

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Wed Sep 21, 2011 9:23 am

Aha, proof the Japanese did not copy the Germans - spins the other way !!

Does that mean you got three speed reverse one speed forwards?

Tacho reads off coil ? Dunno what is wrong.....

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EA81 into trike VW automatic

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