Dying EJ N/A?

Get the most out of your Engine / Gearbox with these handy hints ...
User avatar
taza
General Member
Posts: 1417
Joined: Sun Dec 26, 2010 10:21 pm
Location: Perth, Australia

Post by taza » Wed Dec 14, 2011 12:27 pm

Just got a call from the mechanic, quite a few things need replacing. The timming belt, something Hydraulic (couldn't hear real well on the phone but its to do with the timing belt), water pump and a few other things. About $600-700 worth of parts. This is going to be an expensive trip to the mechanic.

He recommended that I do them but since the front end of the motor is apart labour wouldn't be much more. Plus id rather not have the timing belt let go on the sand dune or at all.

Taza

User avatar
Alex
Elder Member
Posts: 5405
Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2005 10:00 am
Location: Perth
Contact:

Post by Alex » Wed Dec 14, 2011 12:30 pm

yes its probably worth getting them things replaced.

unfortunately theyre an age related replacement and need to be done anyways.

hydraulic tensioner is probably what he said, which is what keeps the correct tension on the timing belt. Very important.

alex
my07 Outback
my13 Hyundai i45(shhhh)
my02 Gen3 Liberty limited ed.

previously
L-series wagon, LSD, EJ20turbo, 29in tyres, 'wanky wagon'
2000 gen3 outback, lifted, otherwise stock.

User avatar
niterida
General Member
Posts: 1158
Joined: Sun Apr 13, 2008 5:45 pm
Location: Geraldton WA

Post by niterida » Wed Dec 14, 2011 12:58 pm

What about the compression test ? Hope he did that first to save you money looking at other things if the engine is mcrooted.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

User avatar
taza
General Member
Posts: 1417
Joined: Sun Dec 26, 2010 10:21 pm
Location: Perth, Australia

Post by taza » Wed Dec 14, 2011 1:16 pm

niterida wrote:What about the compression test ? Hope he did that first to save you money looking at other things if the engine is mcrooted.
I think they will do that last :???: I think the engine will be alright after this. Otherwsie I will get everything else done aswell since im forking out $1400+ now. Might aswell do it all before christmas if I can too...

User avatar
TOONGA
Elder Member
Posts: 5339
Joined: Sat May 30, 2009 10:15 am
Location: Mandurah where they divided by zero
Contact:

Post by TOONGA » Wed Dec 14, 2011 3:29 pm

the compression test is one of the first things I do to a motor. one when cold and then one when hot. that way I can see what difference there is when the engine warms up.

I'm hoping it all works out for you Taza

TOONGA
Image
PJ Gone but not forgotten
JETCAR AKA the sandwedge Rusted in pieces

User avatar
alang
Junior Member
Posts: 225
Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2011 9:18 pm
Location: Newcastle NSW

Post by alang » Wed Dec 14, 2011 3:58 pm

picked up a compression tester of Ebay for $25 with postage the same in repco today was over the $100 mark. Will come in handy plus having 3 kids 3 stepsons and 1 step daughter most with cars should get used.

User avatar
El_Freddo
Master Member
Posts: 12626
Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2005 10:00 am
Location: Bridgewater Vic
Contact:

Post by El_Freddo » Wed Dec 14, 2011 4:11 pm

niterida wrote:What about the compression test ? Hope he did that first to save you money looking at other things if the engine is mcrooted.
Me too! I'm finding this mechanic frustrating!!!
taza wrote:I think they will do that last :???: I think the engine will be alright after this. Otherwsie I will get everything else done aswell since im forking out $1400+ now. Might aswell do it all before christmas if I can too...
So what is exactly being done? Water pump, yes, cam belt kit and tensioner, yes, Head Gaskets???

I don't see how the tensioner is cactus, I've reused the old one that came with the engine twice now. The engine has done about 180k km... That tensioner is still in there!
alang wrote:picked up a compression tester of Ebay for $25 with postage the same in repco today was over the $100 mark. Will come in handy plus having 3 kids 3 stepsons and 1 step daughter most with cars should get used.
If you can change/check your spark plugs you can check your compression - they're simple "az" to use!

Taza, I know I've come across as stern/hard in this thread and that's because I'm finding it frustrating - all talk and no results to show. I apologise for this, but - Do you actually know the results for each pot (cylinder)?

This is where you'll know what you're engine's doing - and what to do from there...

Cheers

Bennie
"The lounge room is not a workshop..."
Image
El Freddo's Pics - El_Freddo's youtube

User avatar
d_generate
General Member
Posts: 1529
Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 1:51 am
Location: Back in Perth and SORing it atm.

Post by d_generate » Wed Dec 14, 2011 4:29 pm

Sounds to me like all you are getting is the equivalent of a 200k service, you should be getting ALL fluids changed + the timing kit etc for around the $1,000 mark on a 2L N/A.

Shame you can't get one of these.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-2-2L-EJ2 ... 5d2f150e60
98 Libbo with V3 STI running gear. 13.0 @ 105mph with CAI & 3" Zorst:mrgreen:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TKrsF-2JS3M :twisted:
Image

User avatar
taza
General Member
Posts: 1417
Joined: Sun Dec 26, 2010 10:21 pm
Location: Perth, Australia

Post by taza » Wed Dec 14, 2011 4:48 pm

ElFreddo I am still at work! Your forgetting the time difference. I haven't seen the car since I dropped it off this morning. I am unsure of the compression test results. I haven't heard anything since 10am

The timing belt, hydraulic tensioner, water pump and all the seals, washers and gaskets are getting replaced. My mechanic said it looked worn and recommended that this other maintenance (technically 200k service) be done while the water pump was being done. The head gaskets are not getting done and the engine is still in the car.

I don't know if the compression test was done before or after or even if the car is put back together yet, will find out in a few hours when I finish work and get there.

If it is still burning mass amounts of oil I will replace what needs to be done to get that fixed as this is pretty major and costly at the moment.
As my mechanic said 'better to be safe then have the timing belt let go and kill the engine'. Plus since the timing belt was off to replace the water pump the extra labour is that much extra.

I don't have aclue on the cost except that its $600-700 for all the parts plus how ever many hours ($100 per hour). So im expecting between 1000-2000 in cost.

Taza

User avatar
El_Freddo
Master Member
Posts: 12626
Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2005 10:00 am
Location: Bridgewater Vic
Contact:

Post by El_Freddo » Wed Dec 14, 2011 4:57 pm

I'm not forgetting the time difference mate! I just thought that they would have told you that it had been done and that you may have asked for the results of each pot... If they'd called to say what needs replacing as they'd assessed it all, I'm sure they would have done a compression test - at least a good mechanic would have if you had expressed concerns about oil consumption.

Yes you're correct in saying that it was a good time to replace the water pump and belts. But IF it turns out to be a leaking head gasket or the valve stem seals in the head you have to remove all of what he's done today (except the water pump) to get the cams removed for the valve stem seals sorted - or to remove the head in the case of a head gasket...

That's what I was getting at... I hope he's got some good news for you, I would hate to have you shell out hard earned cash to fix your EJ only then to find out that the mechanic was too lazy to do a proper job on investigating the problem before he pulled it all apart.

This is why I do all of my own mechanical work, yes it can get frustrating and working around a vehicle that's off the road waiting for mechanical work is not fun sometimes. But if you look after your vehicle you can usually work your maintenance around what you're doing rather than the other way around ;) I realise though that not everyone is as mechanically minded as myself and others I know, parents who don't want you to touch anything because they've never done anything other than drop it off at the mechanic doesn't really help either...

Cheers

Bennie
"The lounge room is not a workshop..."
Image
El Freddo's Pics - El_Freddo's youtube

User avatar
taza
General Member
Posts: 1417
Joined: Sun Dec 26, 2010 10:21 pm
Location: Perth, Australia

Post by taza » Wed Dec 14, 2011 5:05 pm

El_Freddo wrote:I'm not forgetting the time difference mate! I just thought that they would have told you that it had been done and that you may have asked for the results of each pot... If they'd called to say what needs replacing as they'd assessed it all, I'm sure they would have done a compression test - at least a good mechanic would have if you had expressed concerns about oil consumption.

Yes you're correct in saying that it was a good time to replace the water pump and belts. But IF it turns out to be a leaking head gasket or the valve stem seals in the head you have to remove all of what he's done today (except the water pump) to get the cams removed for the valve stem seals sorted - or to remove the head in the case of a head gasket...

That's what I was getting at... I hope he's got some good news for you, I would hate to have you shell out hard earned cash to fix your EJ only then to find out that the mechanic was too lazy to do a proper job on investigating the problem before he pulled it all apart.

This is why I do all of my own mechanical work, yes it can get frustrating and working around a vehicle that's off the road waiting for mechanical work is not fun sometimes. But if you look after your vehicle you can usually work your maintenance around what you're doing rather than the other way around ;) I realise though that not everyone is as mechanically minded as myself and others I know, parents who don't want you to touch anything because they've never done anything other than drop it off at the mechanic doesn't really help either...

Cheers

Bennie
Thanks, im not trying to be rude either. Its just really p1ssing me off having my car keep breaking. I know sometimes its me but its always at the worst times. Im just going to fix it and if I have to fork out 2-3k for the valve stem seals to be replaced then may aswell do it. The engine should easily last another 300k if I look after her just abit better :)

If I can get someone to help show and teach me how to do more indepth maintenance and repairs then I won't bother with mechanics but for the time being and with my parents nagging its the easiest and quickest option.

They seem to be good and always do a thorough job. They actually noticed the coolant leak when there was only a small stain 25,000km ago. They ususally give me a recommendation then let me make the decision. Plus I would hate to be forking out this money for just a water pump, then be powering along the beach over christmas and new years and have the timing belt let go or the engine sieze up.

Now I won't have to do the water pump and timing until 250k compared to 200k :)

Taza

User avatar
El_Freddo
Master Member
Posts: 12626
Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2005 10:00 am
Location: Bridgewater Vic
Contact:

Post by El_Freddo » Wed Dec 14, 2011 5:09 pm

Yeah I understand what you're saying.

Maybe a good time while it keeps you happy to do some research on a conversion? Get all the parts slowly as you can afford them - find out what you need exactly in the first place, draw up a budget for each item and double it, then you should be about right ;)

Cheers

Bennie
"The lounge room is not a workshop..."
Image
El Freddo's Pics - El_Freddo's youtube

User avatar
Alex
Elder Member
Posts: 5405
Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2005 10:00 am
Location: Perth
Contact:

Post by Alex » Wed Dec 14, 2011 5:19 pm

the hydraulic tensioner is different on the newer motors Bennie, its got a built in pulley which is pushed against the belt, unlike the ej22/ej20g longer cylindrical style tensioner.

Ive always heard a tensioner should be replaced when the belt is being done, especially the ones with the built in pulley as the bearing might be carking it as should the rest of the cam wheels and stuff. (maybe not a 100km but definately at 200km)
my07 Outback
my13 Hyundai i45(shhhh)
my02 Gen3 Liberty limited ed.

previously
L-series wagon, LSD, EJ20turbo, 29in tyres, 'wanky wagon'
2000 gen3 outback, lifted, otherwise stock.

User avatar
taza
General Member
Posts: 1417
Joined: Sun Dec 26, 2010 10:21 pm
Location: Perth, Australia

Post by taza » Wed Dec 14, 2011 5:20 pm

Just got a call 30seconds ago. Compression test came back fine( will find out the details in when i pick her up). Only $1000 for the compression test, water pump, timing belt, hydraulic tensioner, gaskets, washers and seals plus abit of oil and coolant to top up. Plus labour. So I can't complain :D

Gonna go pick up the car in 40mins. Can't wait!!!

User avatar
El_Freddo
Master Member
Posts: 12626
Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2005 10:00 am
Location: Bridgewater Vic
Contact:

Post by El_Freddo » Wed Dec 14, 2011 5:24 pm

Alex wrote:the hydraulic tensioner is different on the newer motors Bennie, its got a built in pulley which is pushed against the belt, unlike the ej22/ej20g longer cylindrical style tensioner.
Hmmm... I thought they would have made the pulley part of the tensioner replaceable... Anyway...
taza wrote:Just got a call 30seconds ago. Compression test came back fine( will find out the details in when i pick her up). Only $1000 for the compression test, water pump, timing belt, hydraulic tensioner, gaskets, washers and seals plus abit of oil and coolant to top up. Plus labour. So I can't complain :D

Gonna go pick up the car in 40mins. Can't wait!!!
Gotta be stoked with that mate! I hope she goes the way you expect her to without further issues ;)

Cheers

Bennie
"The lounge room is not a workshop..."
Image
El Freddo's Pics - El_Freddo's youtube

User avatar
Alex
Elder Member
Posts: 5405
Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2005 10:00 am
Location: Perth
Contact:

Post by Alex » Wed Dec 14, 2011 5:27 pm

ahh thats good news.

i hope shes all sweet for you again mate!

alex
my07 Outback
my13 Hyundai i45(shhhh)
my02 Gen3 Liberty limited ed.

previously
L-series wagon, LSD, EJ20turbo, 29in tyres, 'wanky wagon'
2000 gen3 outback, lifted, otherwise stock.

User avatar
taza
General Member
Posts: 1417
Joined: Sun Dec 26, 2010 10:21 pm
Location: Perth, Australia

Post by taza » Wed Dec 14, 2011 5:28 pm

El_Freddo wrote:Gotta be stoked with that mate! I hope she goes the way you expect her to without further issues ;)
Yeah its a relief. Sure a 2.5 or H6 would be nice but nows not a good time with uni on the way and the holiday season. Plus I want to offroad over christmas and new years.

The 2.0l is good enough now shes had her very expensive christmas present. haha ;)

Now just gotta get mum to pull the old credit card out and ask if she will pay or atleast go halves :rolleyes:

Gonna be abit nicer on her from now on :mrgreen:

User avatar
Alex
Elder Member
Posts: 5405
Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2005 10:00 am
Location: Perth
Contact:

Post by Alex » Wed Dec 14, 2011 5:31 pm

newer model
Image

older model
Image

i definately think its worth changing the whole thing including the hydraulic part. Ive heard they dont like to be fully compressed, then released numerous times.

alex
my07 Outback
my13 Hyundai i45(shhhh)
my02 Gen3 Liberty limited ed.

previously
L-series wagon, LSD, EJ20turbo, 29in tyres, 'wanky wagon'
2000 gen3 outback, lifted, otherwise stock.

User avatar
NachaLuva
General Member
Posts: 1930
Joined: Wed Aug 31, 2011 5:05 pm
Location: SE Melbourne

Post by NachaLuva » Wed Dec 14, 2011 5:44 pm

Awesome news Taza :mrgreen:

Even though I havent been posting I've been following this thread closely.
I'm not really too sure about a lot of the things that have been talked about other than if they have the front of the engine stripped you're spot on getting other stuff like the belts done even if it isn't due yet.

That's alot of work you've had done & now i'm sure your beloved Foz will love you for it & repay you with lots of reliable kms to come.

Can't wait to hear how she is when you pick her up :mrgreen:
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Owner SubieLiftOz, lift kits for Subarus :twisted:

'97 Forester: EJ22E; 4" Custom Body Lift; JDM STi plated LSD; 20mm WRX RSB; Snorkel; Kings

User avatar
taza
General Member
Posts: 1417
Joined: Sun Dec 26, 2010 10:21 pm
Location: Perth, Australia

Post by taza » Wed Dec 14, 2011 9:11 pm

Ok picked her up... She runs great, like a new engine. Only small amount of oil burning now, nothing major :mrgreen:

As said above 200psi is really good for compression, 150psi for a 10year old car.

Mine:
235psi on Cylinder 1
225psi on Cylinder 2
230psi on Cylinder 3
230psi on Cylinder 4

Pretty much a new engine :twisted::cool:

Can't complain with the price, nothing else is wrong with the car other than the small oil burning. She could do with a few cans of SUEC but other than that shes running great. Good for another 300k+

Really happy and in perfect time before Christmas :mrgreen:

Now I can actually go offroad. Haven't been properly in over 3 months

Thanks for all the help guys. Really appreciated!!!!
Cheers
Taza

Post Reply

Return to “Engine, Gearbox and Diff”