L Series EA to EJ

MTB92 · Post by **MTB92** » Fri Dec 30, 2011 8:39 pm

yep, knackered CV and bent shock. everything else seems alright, but i think it is going to need a serious wheel alignment...

what a CV joint should NOT look like.

[ATTACH]3055[/ATTACH]

and the bottom of the strut is bent out...

[ATTACH]3056[/ATTACH]

and this is the hill that did the damage, looking down from the top after it happened.

i slipped into one of the ruts, which jolted the wheel sideways. i am sure some of you guys will be familiar with the hill, just west of Gorrie rd on the power lines

[ATTACH]3057[/ATTACH]

also went to get parts today, but apparently KPM had gone off to the beach, under orders of the GF. imagine that at this time of year! :P

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Fri Dec 30, 2011 8:44 pm

Shit mate, must have been a pretty full on knock!

At least it's easily repairable.

Cheers

Bennie

Post by **TOONGA** » Fri Dec 30, 2011 8:44 pm

Nice job

did you check the radius rod as well?

TOONGA

MTB92 · Post by **MTB92** » Fri Dec 30, 2011 9:25 pm

TOONGA wrote:Nice job did you check the radius rod as well?

TOONGA

they look straight. if they were bent then the wheel would sit further back in the arch wouldn't it? because it is not doing that.

i guess if it is still crooked when i put the car back down i will know something serious is up!

guyph_01 · Post by **guyph_01** » Fri Dec 30, 2011 10:05 pm

Nice, Sry KPM was closed. We ended up on the river by Shelly and jetski'd till about 30mins ago:p

Should be home tomorrow:)

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Sat Dec 31, 2011 4:38 pm

MTB92 wrote:yep, knackered CV and bent shock. everything else seems alright, but i think it is going to need a serious wheel alignment...

what a CV joint should NOT look like.

[ATTACH]3055[/ATTACH]

and the bottom of the strut is bent out...

[ATTACH]3056[/ATTACH]

and this is the hill that did the damage, looking down from the top after it happened. i slipped into one of the ruts, which jolted the wheel sideways. i am sure some of you guys will be familiar with the hill, just west of Gorrie rd on the power lines

[ATTACH]3057[/ATTACH]

also went to get parts today, but apparently KPM had gone off to the beach, under orders of the GF. imagine that at this time of year! :P

Sounds like the KPM inc is letting us down over the festive season... that will change when I get back !!

Robbie.. that is one hell of a good job on the CV joint

I'm guessing the force of a Subaru engine matched by SPEED may have had something to do with this. Climbing rocky areas is completely different to climbing sand dunes.. slow and steady wins

bet it was fun though

MTB92 · Post by **MTB92** » Sun Jan 01, 2012 7:13 pm

RSR, I was going too quick, but i think it was dropping into the rut sideways that did the damage, not pure speed. Just so i have a car again for the next few weeks it is currently running RWD with my old pogo stick shocks

Onto the EJ though, the harness is getting very close to cut down. it now starts and runs completely indipendant of the transmission. In fact, pretty much all that is left is the wiring for the rad fans

. i dont know about others that have done it, but i am finding it pretty confusing how it all ties in with the aircon.

i am thinking the easiest way to wire it in to the L series, is to use the switch from the computer to trigger a fan relay completely seperate from the aircon. i figure if the aircon is on, its going to be a warm day and the fans will be on in that case anyway. if the fans are not on because there is enough airflow then it will be enough to cool the aircon anyway (i dont know if this ever actually happens). I dont mind having to wait a few minutes for the aircon to become cold when the fans kick in from start up either.

now according to http://images.benandmichelle.net/displa ... um=7&pos=1 when the fans are on is when the radiator fan control output is 0v and off when the output is 10 to 14 volts. Does this require a 'ground switched relay' powered off the 'on' on the ignition switch?

are there other ways people have dont it that are better/easier/worth considering?

Cheers
Robbie

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Mon Jan 02, 2012 12:10 pm

Pogo sticks... LOL. I remember having some of them in my MY wagon. You'll get sea sick pretty quickly

As for the fan wiring, I'd leave all the L.series wiring in (including the a/c wiring) as this works fine. The fans switch on via the temp sensor in the radiator and the a/c wiring intercepts that and overides it when you turn the a/c on. You will need this working beforehand as it's easier to cool a hot radiator than a boiled one.

MTB92 · Post by **MTB92** » Tue Jan 03, 2012 9:57 pm

RSR 555 wrote: As for the fan wiring, I'd leave all the L.series wiring in (including the a/c wiring) as this works fine. The fans switch on via the temp sensor in the radiator and the a/c wiring intercepts that and overides it when you turn the a/c on. You will need this working beforehand as it's easier to cool a hot radiator than a boiled one.

sweet, that makes complete sense awesome!

the harness is cut down to a level i am happy with, and the lib still runs.

i now have another question, with the timing belts. The 2 camshaft pulleys have white out marks that line up with the notches on the belt cover, but the crankshaft pulley has an arrow which doesnt line up with anything at the same point. so which one am i meant to go off to replace the belt?

[ATTACH]3065[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]3066[/ATTACH]

Post by **TOONGA** » Tue Jan 03, 2012 10:51 pm

this section of the Liberty fsm deals with the timing belt

https://www.rapidshare.com/files/183069 ... _SOHC_.pdf

from page 18

TOONGA

90brumby · Post by **90brumby** » Tue Jan 03, 2012 11:00 pm

yep the cam pulleys are the right ones and then use the small notches on the crank pulley with the small notch on the oil pump and you will be all good

tristan

MTB92 · Post by **MTB92** » Tue Jan 03, 2012 11:07 pm

cheers. i did end up getting it. the mark on the crankshaft pulley was almost completely gone, but after a lot more searching with a better light it was found.

90brumby · Post by **90brumby** » Tue Jan 03, 2012 11:12 pm

yea it shows up well in that pic that you took

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Wed Jan 04, 2012 2:48 am

MTB92 wrote:[ATTACH]3066[/ATTACH]

90brumby wrote:yea it shows up well in that pic that you took

Yep.. this little notch is on one of the crankshaft timing tabs. As you have it lined up in these pics is correct. The crankshaft keyway should be facing down at 6 o'clock.

The arrows are there to line up for Top Dead Centre (TDC). If you rotate the crank (once you've installed you new belt) then all of these arrows should point up (12 o'clock) when the #1 piston is at TDC. These arrows where put on them for the EJ18 engines that came with the SPFI and Distributor.

MTB92 · Post by **MTB92** » Wed Jan 04, 2012 9:46 am

RSR 555 wrote:Yep.. this little notch is on one of the crankshaft timing tabs. As you have it lined up in these pics is correct. The crankshaft keyway should be facing down at 6 o'clock.

In the poor light in the shed i couldn't see that mark. only the flash of the camera made it visible there, and i didn't look at the photos too hard before i put them up. i knew what i was looking for, i just couldn't see it.

I took down a bright headlight and saw it.

the book makes a big deal about finding tdc before starting to do the timing belts, is that really important?

Post by **TOONGA** » Wed Jan 04, 2012 10:40 am

MTB92 wrote: the book makes a big deal about finding tdc before starting to do the timing belts, is that really important?

Everyone Ive ever seen the good doctor do, is done by aligning the 3 marks.

TOONGA

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Wed Jan 04, 2012 11:16 am

MTB92 wrote:the book makes a big deal about finding tdc before starting to do the timing belts, is that really important?

As long as you set it up the way you have it in these pics, you'll be fine. Just be 100% sure that all 3 marks are lined up before pulling the pin to the timing belt tensioner.

MTB92 · Post by **MTB92** » Fri Jan 06, 2012 8:04 pm

ok, timing belt, oil seals and water pump done. also pulled out the motor last night.

i am now trying to get the flywheel off the motor, but having never had anything to do with autos i am a bit stuck and i can't seem to find anything about it in the manual.
is the dome part meant to be left with the gear box to access the bolt on the flywheel? the only other bolts are 4 12mm bolts around the outside of the flywheel that can only be accessed from the bottom where the bell housing is open.

[ATTACH]3071[/ATTACH]

MTB92 · Post by **MTB92** » Fri Jan 06, 2012 8:35 pm

ok, scratch that

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Wed Jan 11, 2012 1:01 pm

MTB92 wrote:ok, scratch that

So you've got it off ok?

Progress going well?

Cheers

Bennie