L series paint

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Thu Jan 05, 2012 7:26 pm

I hope it is not 2 pack.
I just wanted things to be simple.
Yesterday I bought a spray tine of Holts DSH70 and this looks pretty close.
Going back to the dreaded 2 pack can I assume it needs a special primer too ?

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Thu Jan 05, 2012 7:43 pm

It wouldnt surprise me if it is acrylic & the solvent in the primer is dissolving it.

I think you need some advice from a paint shop or at least someone more knowledgeable than me!

Bungers · Post by **Bungers** » Thu Jan 05, 2012 8:11 pm

What do you mean dreaded 2pac?

2Pac is the only paint you should put on your car. Go to any autobody shop and they all use 2pac.

By the way 2pac paint system is where you add a catalyst (hardener) to the paint.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Thu Jan 05, 2012 10:04 pm

Hey Cliff,

once you're done with the roof (and possibly the whole body) of your L series, would you be so kind as to come and re-paint Ruby Scoo? I'm sure you would have mastered the art of spray painting by the time you get around to RScoo

Cheers

Bennie

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Fri Jan 06, 2012 4:40 am

El Freddo
I already have had a gut full of painting and I havent really started yet.
I wont know till the sun comes up (note - time is currently 0535hrs) but the Holts DSH70 is looking pretty close to a match. This arvo I will give the area I have done a bit of a cut back and see how things go. Unfortunatle, (Murphys Law) we have 3 car spares places in Muswellbrook, Auto 1, Bullseye and Repco. Auto 1 is where I have been getting all my stuff so far, Bullseye is on holidays and Repco does not sell paint. This means I have to go to Singleton which is about 40 minutes away to Supercheap and I am not able to do this at the moment (work is getting in the way) This and the fact the rubber seal that goes around the gear and 4WD sticks under the centre console has fallen apart means I may not get any more paint till next week.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Fri Jan 06, 2012 7:12 am

more memories come flooding back - we had similar problem trying to paint another old Japanese car with Holts/Duplicolour paint systems and things bubbling up. I think it was resolved with a hammertone epoxy finish

which is of no help to you, sorry, but yeah, it is just when you are proud of your neating sanding prep, feel you are getting a nasty little job done and "MURPHY" you have found yorself further up the creek!

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Sat Jan 07, 2012 12:37 pm

After much researching the issue of the original paint bubbling/pealing back where the paint has been prepped/feathured when new primer/paint is applied is actually quite common but always frustrating and quite confusing.
What appears I now have to do is find some paint isolator which is what is formulated to prevent solvent attack on an existing paint film. This is usually used when going from one paint type to another acrylic to 2K for example but I now have to agree that a chemical reaction is my issue between the primer in particualar and not quite as bad with the new paint top coat.
It comes in a 400g spray pack or 1L tin or bigger. It can be sprayed on or brushed.
Due to Muswellbrooks pavement being rolled up at 12 midday of a weekend (all the shops shut except Big W/Coles/Franklins etc) and I couldnt get out to Auto 1 in time as I have only now worked out what I need and it is past 12 has anyone come across this product ?
The is aparently an Iso-free (lest nasty version) and it may be made by Motospray/Hichem.

alang · Post by **alang** » Sat Jan 07, 2012 1:11 pm

holt make one for plastic bumpers it stops the paint pealing of when bumped or hit with a high pressure car wash. they should make one for painted surfaces as well

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Sat Jan 07, 2012 1:34 pm

Thanks alang
I think REPCO have this one as I called them during the week asking for primer. I was told the only one they had was for plastic so if all else fails I may try this.
We should be going to Cessnock tomorrow so if this happens I would like to swing via Maitland, go to Bunnings and see of they have an electric polishing machine (I need one now for all the polishing I look like doing) as I have a $100.00 gift voucher. On the way back from Cessnock a stop at Supercheap at Singleton will be in order as Auto 1 in Muswellbrook only had the one tin of Holts DSH70 white which is the closest I have been able to find for my paint colour. This for Subaru paint codes 054 or 057 (cant remember which). I will also pick up a tin of their type of primer to see how this goes.

alang · Post by **alang** » Sat Jan 07, 2012 2:13 pm

Cliff have a look at this site they have videos and you can email them your problem as well.
they are Sydney based
have free painting classes
on line shop can supply all the gear you need.
V.G Autopaints & Tools

http://wwwvgautopaints.rtrk.com.au/?sci ... kw=1509760

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Sat Jan 07, 2012 2:41 pm

alang
Thanks very much for the info I have e mailed them for their thoughts.
See how it all goes and I will let everyone know the results.

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Sat Jan 07, 2012 2:47 pm

Very glad its been solved.

Bloody solvents, have had probs like that during my fibreglassing years

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Sun Feb 05, 2012 10:14 am

Resurrecting this post briefly to say the problem certaily is the reaction of the new paint/undercoat/primer/spray primer filler (everything) with the original paint.
The solution is most certainly a product called Motospray, spray on spot repair Isolator from Auto 1.
It comes out yellow. You prep the area first all as for normal painting (feather edges etc), mask off and use wax/grease remover, spray on the isolator in light coats (as normal with spray paints) follow the tins instructions for dry time between coats and when dry sand all as normal for primers/spray fillers.
Basically I am using it instead of a primer.
Wax/grease remove again and start applying paint colour in light coats (must be light coats. Tried a heavy coat and wound up stuffing it), drying between coats as normal. Continue till enough colour has been applied and let final coat dry.
This is the stage I am at right now this morning. I will leave the final coat to dry for a day or so and cut back to (hopefully) a shiny new surface.
All this from a chip the size of the 50 cent piece to about 8 to 10 % of the roof needing to be painted.
Steep learning curve but hopefully this will help someone else from going through the same problem.

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Sun Sep 02, 2012 11:49 am

If anyone is still interested in my saga re L series paint, I recently covered my roof with 7 or 8 different Subaru, white paints that looked close. I layed them on in stripes about 100m wide x about 300mm long. At first I thought the Subaru paint code 57 or 057 Ceramic white (Powerplus PJ2095) was the go but not the case, then the code 54 Polar white (Holts DSH70) but still not close enough. Then when the roof looked a sick sort of psychedelic experiment along comes paint code 230 Aspen white (Holts DSSB01) which is so damn close I will go with it.
Of course Auto1 only have 1 can so I will have to order more in or find the next nearest Holts supplier.
Note - never, ever, ever, assume (it makes an ass out of u and me) that any paint code (for example) 230 Aspen white in Holts, Powerplus or any other brand will give you the same colour. IT WONT !!!!
Been there and done that, they are different. I had to cut back 1/2 a roof on an LX Torana when I came out the next morning and saw the difference. Not happy.
Anyway, I will see how the DSSB01 goes over the next couple of weeks or so as I get more and apply it.