Noisy lifters EA82

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Tue Jan 24, 2012 3:47 pm

In my case I added some oil. It was low. It has been leaking out from under the engine where the oil pump goes onto the engine.
Unfortunately, I received the respective gaskets from Frog and then noted from the manual that I have to pull the pump off with the timing belts so I dont intend to do that at the moment and will have to put up with the oil leaking out.
Only issue some of it is dripping on the exhaust while really stinks.
I am guessing in a month or two I will change the timing belts and so will do the belts, water pump and the oil pump. The car has done about 308,000ks so replacing all this is worth while. I may in the mean time make up something to guide any leaking oil down under the sump guard just to stop the oil occasionally dripping on the exhaust and stinking things out.

stempy07 · Post by **stempy07** » Tue Jan 24, 2012 8:12 pm

as i near pulled my hair out fixing the dreaded tick, new timing belts, mickey mouse seals, AND main oil pump seal is no big deal job, its all accessible with radiator out, BUT if all fails and still have the diesel acoustics, automatic transmission fluid is the answer, i had a EA81 1985 which i regret selling to update to EA82, the old girl had over 500,000 with NO tick, TIP ::: when replacing mickey mouse oil seal on pump, use 90 grade oil on seal when inserting into pump, it is very easy for the seal to [ slip ] out of [ groove ] when installing it onto motor, my EA82's o' ring was distorted when i removed it, whether it was installed wrong or [ sucked in ] as some have mentioned i don't know. LUV my subys so i can only tell you what worked for me.

discopotato03 · Post by **discopotato03** » Tue Jan 24, 2012 8:50 pm

I think there may be something in the use of diesel oil and some of the Subi and Mitsy punters OS are getting into things like Shell Rotella T6 5W40 supposed synthetic . There is one source of this in Australia , GL lubricants in Sydney . I bough 5 1 US gal bottles of this and atm is in the wifes Pulsar for evaluation , she hasn't come at me with the rolling pin yet so must be alright ...
I'll run the ATF idea past Coxy and see what he reckons .

A .

PS No1 product for cracked heads is "Cargo Metalic Seal up" . Drain coolant and flush cooling system with straight fresh water . Drain that and pour a bottle of this in and refill the cooling system .
I kid you not I've seen this stuff turn a car puffing steam out of its exhaust into a normal car again . Every EA82 owner shout carry 10L of water and a bottle of this stuff everywhere . Has the Coxy seal of aproval as well .

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Wed Jan 25, 2012 2:41 am

stempy07 wrote:yes i changed the front shaft seal on the pump as well, it was a car that was sitting for 2 years in paddock, i nearly gave up on it and contemplated selling it to a wrecker, glad i didn't, if they start to rattle again i would give it another 500 mil; of ATF, the motor has done over 320,000, still doesn't use oil, or should i say hasn't for 3 to 4000 klms;, it sounded like a loud diesel when i got it.

You'll have no worries then.. this front seal is 75% of the problem with them making noise. If left for too long it kills them, so if yours are quiet now, then all is sweet.. Glad you didn't sell it to a wrecker

LONG LIVE THE L.SERIES

stempy07 · Post by **stempy07** » Wed Jan 25, 2012 11:17 am

A .

PS No1 product for cracked heads is "Cargo Metalic Seal up" . Drain coolant and flush cooling system with straight fresh water . Drain that and pour a bottle of this in and refill the cooling system .
I kid you not I've seen this stuff turn a car puffing steam out of its exhaust into a normal car again . Every EA82 owner shout carry 10L of water and a bottle of this stuff everywhere . Has the Coxy seal of aproval as well .[/QUOTE]

i used seal up in my old EA81 85 suby for 3 years, used 2 lots over that period, sure beat pulling of heads, i have some in glove box and swear by it

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Thu Jan 26, 2012 10:46 am

This Cargo metalic Seal up is nothing like the old Bars Leaks is it. ?
Others may have better luck than me but back in the very early 80's I had a Datsun 200B SX and put a tin of Bars leaks in the radiator as (dont recall exactly) some sort of water leak. Worst thing I could ever have done.
It stopped water leaking out or into where it was not supposed to go but it blocked the entire radiator. My father and I had to take the radiator tanks off and with thin wire unblock every tube.
Never ever again.

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Thu Jan 26, 2012 12:09 pm

Cliff R wrote:Worst thing I could ever have done.
It stopped water leaking out or into where it was not supposed to go but it blocked the entire radiator. My father and I had to take the radiator tanks off and with thin wire unblock every tube.
Never ever again.

Yep thats why many people never use that type of product. Anything that can stop leaks in either water or oil can also block things up

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Thu Jan 26, 2012 12:18 pm

Yeah, if your gonna use it, make sure that the water in the rad is well above the fins.

discopotato03 · Post by **discopotato03** » Thu Jan 26, 2012 11:33 pm

I had that experience many years ago with Chemi Weld and swore I'd never do it again either . I think the secret is to do this with the engine totally COLD which is easy with an aluminium block/heads EA81/82 . If you know how to flush them properly its easy - undo the return heater hose to the engine and stick your garden hose in there . I think it also helps if you can get this stuff into the engine rather than the radiator so down the heater hose and into the engine it can go . Actually with an MY or L you should be able to tip it into the rad because its filler is on the cold side of a cross flow rad so its next stop would be into the engine when the thermostat opens .
I believe what it does is coagulate around internal exhaust gas leaks so not just when exposed to clean air .
Anyway I've seen it work too many times with no ill effects so I wouldn't hesitate to use it . $10 odd and 1/2 an hours stuff around is how much better than pulling heads off and all that goes with it .

N' besides , I trust my "Guru" .

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Tue Jan 31, 2012 8:57 pm

OK it has been a long day. Our new apprentices have started on day 1 of 4 for their induction process.
Forgive the following I am rambling.
Bollocks !!!!
Ticking (hammering) is back again so today put a bottle of Nulon Lifter free and tune up in the engine. Supposed to work in about 500 ks. The oil level is on the high mark.
I know, I know, I know, fix the thing by putting the new oil pump gasket kit into the car.
I just do not have the time right now so will have to rely on headphones to drown the noise out.
OK its not that bad, its only one or two lifters at the most but seriously the car is trying to tell me to fix it and I am going "lah, lah, lah" (with fingers in ears). May as well do an ostridge and stick my head in the sand.
REPCO guy when the receipt for the Nulon wouldnt print out and I said dont worry about it (receipt) said back to me "you cant bring it back (Nulon) when you put it into the engine".
Good bloke, always helpful we both had a chuckle. Made me feel better.
I will let you know how it goes.

discopotato03 · Post by **discopotato03** » Wed Feb 01, 2012 9:07 am

For piece of mind and with access to a hoist I'd stick it up in the air and reset the cam belt tensioners . The middle belt cover has a couple of rubber bungs over the tensioners bolt heads . Remove these and wind the engine over a little via the crank pulley bolt head and simply back off each pair of tensioner bolts allowing them to take up on the slack side of each belt and then retorque them .
I find EA82s are more likely to make valve train noise if there is any slack in their belts so for 10 minutes work its worth a shot .

As I mentioned there is a growing following of diesel engine oil though I don't know about for tired engines with worn crank seals . Mine was rebuilt though the 314K old one it replaced was only noisy with slack belts or if it had not been driven for a week . I tend to think that diesel oils have some sort of anti gumming additive in them and clagged up rocker pivots/buckets/followers etc get sticky and allow wider clearances and tapping noises .

Also your call but I always try to use genuine Japanese front and rear crank seals even if they are expensive because they are made to a standard and not a price . Being hard and expensive to get at its worth it in the end .

A .

stempy07 · Post by **stempy07** » Wed Feb 01, 2012 1:53 pm

i tried nulon, did work for 200klms, my previous comments are worth a look, ATF's the go.

littlewhiteute · Post by **littlewhiteute** » Wed Feb 01, 2012 8:31 pm

Seen many engines with noisy HLAs, not just Subaru.

Majority of cases are sloppy timing belts, the cams rock back and forth while the engine is running.

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Thu Feb 02, 2012 5:10 pm

As of right now with about 100ks travelled all quiet with the Nulon.
See how things go.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Thu Feb 02, 2012 7:47 pm

Cliff R wrote:As of right now with about 100ks travelled all quiet with the Nulon.
See how things go.

Well that's got to clear the idea of loose cam belts...

Cheers

Bennie

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Sat Feb 04, 2012 3:41 pm

I found loose timing belts on the EA82 just produces a null knocking sound in the dizzy.

stempy07 · Post by **stempy07** » Tue Feb 07, 2012 8:17 pm

ITS BACK , just done 4800 [ maybe read my previous posts ], and am back to square one, after oil pump refit etc etc, i am convinced now that the motor is not taking in air, [ cant spell airating ] i am sure it is a design fault with the EA82s in the oil galleys in the lifter area, [ too small ], after many klms and oil changes these galleys gunk up, i just dumped 1 litre of ATF into it and it fixed the rattles in 20 klms, i am now going to drive to 10000 and do oil change, this has NOT caused any performance drop of [ ie clean behind rings etc ,] or any loss of compression, for what its worth $$$ why not ?:)

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Tue Feb 07, 2012 8:40 pm

stempy07 wrote:ITS BACK , just done 4800

It'll be back... it's random! They'll do what they like

But best of luck with the additive and future oil changes!

Cheers

Bennie

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Wed Feb 08, 2012 4:58 am

How were the clearances in the pump? are you getting good pressure?

Also if the rattle was going on for too long then there more than likely have damaged the lifters and rockers.

I would try flushing out the oil system with an engine flush product. Then try some thicker oil.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Wed Feb 08, 2012 7:39 am

ATF is not an engine oil or manual gearbox oil, but some people used it in manual boxes. It is a hydraulic fluid and can be washed away with water. You've mixed it with mineral oil? So its had a chance to be mixed under heat and pressure, does it look any different on the dip stick from hot to cold? Got a dickstick to test complete depth when cold like a wire coat hanger to the sump bottom to see if it settles at the bottom? I guess oil additives are not always oil like and I know a guy who sent off a Diesel fuel add for lab testing and came back saying it was basicly kero

$20 for 750ml and nice label and packaging!

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Noisy lifters EA82

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