mpfi-ea82t??should i do it? big post sry

subelover · Post by **subelover** » Tue May 30, 2006 9:44 am

hi all ,got a 89 mpfi touring wagon and i am thinking of putting a ea82t motor in been thinkin bout it for a while and there could be a chance of grabing 1. question: cross member talked to a mate on the weekend and hes done this b4 just heated up the cross member and modified it (big hammer) to fit the turbo down pipe sounds ok. should i find a turbo cross member? and the difference in wiring i think that my car has the 4 pin ecu? correct? just need to think bout all the probs that can come up so i can be prepared. cause its already fuel injected do i just need a surge tank or is my fuel tank ok? and or all info much appreciated. cheers

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Tue May 30, 2006 11:26 am

Your fuel system will be fine as is.

If you can find a resonably priced turbo crossmember, grab it, its definitely an easier option. Otherwise there's no problem modifying one, they can still be strong enough after this.

It will run off your non-turbo loom and ECU (surprisingly) but I beleive there are some basic wiring mods required for the boost solenoid etc.

SCOOBIDOO · Post by **SCOOBIDOO** » Tue May 30, 2006 12:03 pm

i have a turbo crossmember for sale..ill need your old one back though to keep this vehicle mobile.. turbo /non turbo ecu,s are the same..you just have to tell the ecu which way you want to use it,by way of connecting or disconnecting the pin out wire to ground for turbo or not..get the diagram from this site and you will have no problems with your conversion...you ll need a crossmamber...turbo kit from a turbo ea82t and your dash should have a speed sensor inside if it is fuel injected already...i have an rx turbo tacho with boost light included...youll also need the boost discrimination vacuum valve..and the +470 inhg vacuum valve if you want to keep the boost under 7.5psi if not leave that valve off and you will get 12psi max and a round 110kw but should you use your engine in this mode make sure you have new headgaskets and you engine is very good already....i hope this helps.. p.s dont forget to use a heatsheild over your turbo or your bonnet will get nasty blister,s

:lol:cheers

subelover · Post by **subelover** » Tue May 30, 2006 3:57 pm

thanks guys think it mite b a goer hoping it wouldnt too much of a hassel. im surprised bout the ecu and wiring a bit glad. the speed sensor thing should be cool cause they are the same dashes and the boost discrimination vacuum valveis a def im not going to put the motor in to just take it out... should the boost valve and vacuum valve already be on/with he motor?? cheers for the great info guys mite go and download that wiring diagram and study it...

BEN

bluesteel · Post by **bluesteel** » Tue May 30, 2006 4:54 pm

if you need to have a look at one, or need some help with the conversion

i can probably help a bit

in hobz too so not too far

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Tue May 30, 2006 4:57 pm

OK Ben,.... I got your PM

Now...
What year model is your car?.....
If it is 85-86 will mean it is a 3 plug ecu, has a flapper style AFM, and had vaccum and boost switches. The ecu was the same for both turbo and non turbo(although the turbo ecu's had an external knock sensor) , and as scoobidoo said, grounding a wire on the ecu will tell it to run in turbo mode.
If it is 87-94 you have a 4 plug ecu, a hotwire style AFM and it has no boost or vac switches for the ecu. There are slight differences between the turbo and non turbo ecu, but both are interchangeable. The differences are that the turbo ecu has an input for a knock sensor and has a driver for the wastegate duty solenoid (WGDS), it also possiably has a more extended fuel map.

Ok, with that sorted
You have 2 choices...
1. Buy just a turbo motor and hook it upto the current ecu you have. it will run fine (a few members have done it, i think "the postie" is one of them) but you wont have knock control (the timing is retarted when pinging is detected.
2. What i am in the process of doing,.. turbo ecu and motor.
I am using the mpfi non turbo wiring loom but i am adding the wires for the knock sensor and the wgds.
The wire for the knock sensor was already part of the loom, if you use the turbo engine loom, it should be right. The wgds however needs to be added (the turbo ecu wont run without it plugged in) i am still in the process of doing it.

I hope this clears some thing up for you

Gannon

Post by **yarney** » Tue May 30, 2006 8:00 pm

Hi subelover i have the same 89 mpfi wagon and did the conversion as well
The donner engine is an 86 model so i had to swap the throttle body and afm because the plugs don't match thanks to postie for his help

You will have to make the pipe from the throttle boby to afm a bit longer and i had to swap my dissy also, that is it hope it helps.

Jan

stamp_licker · Post by **stamp_licker** » Tue May 30, 2006 8:37 pm

like jan said just swap your throttle body off the tourer to the turbo motor and you dist from tourer to turbo.to get the afm to line up grab 2 plastic pod adapters[bout $10 each] and some intake hose to stretch it out.all you're missing is fuel cut from over boost and a knock sensor.This all runs on the standard tourer loom and ecu.You can pretty much knock it over in a day.Jaffa's wag runs the same setup.If you want to change over to 4 plug turbo ecu i have one of these however i don't know if its a str8 pluggin.
Will

subanator · Post by **subanator** » Tue May 30, 2006 11:11 pm

I have basically the set up as described above, 89 tourer with 4 plug ECU with EA82T.

Can you identify the ECU by number coding found on it, if so can someone post up the series number for N/A and Turbo? I would like to know what is in mine. (Hard buying a converted car you know nothing of its history)

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Wed May 31, 2006 6:53 pm

If you take the lid off the ecu. if it has only one printed circuit board in it, chances are that it is a non turbo
If it has 2 boards, ie. one about an inch above the other (knock control board) its a turbo ecu.

stamp_licker · Post by **stamp_licker** » Wed May 31, 2006 7:40 pm

ecu code A11-000 R14 = turbo rx 4 speed auto. the other turbo ecu 4 plug ecu ends i think in 130.the n/a one i'll look tomorrow.

subelover · Post by **subelover** » Thu Jun 01, 2006 9:35 am

HI ALL, sorrybout not replying at all been in a bit of trouble i had a small accident and now i can only type with 1 hand...

here we go.....

had a reasonably big 100cmx70cm picture hanging on the wall ( pic is a 22b) and the bugger decided to fall down with me under it i moved in time but held my hand up to prevent being hit in the head.

in doing that the glass broke on my hand/fist and cut 2 tendons in half!!!
and also took a massive chunk out of my hand just got out of hopital last nite. a few stitches later and a splint to prevent movement and voila stuffed right hand. no work for 2 weeks and no basketball for the rest of the year.... bugger.

the doctors were impressed cause they havent seen what id done b4 2 in 1 go is impressive they thought. must of killed a china man or run over a black cat or spilt salt what ever i did i have bad karmer

once again very very helpful guys appreciate the response. it will be happening but prob after tax return now

cheers BEN
so mite have to put the swap on the back burner just untill ive had phisio and have movement in my hand again. oh well

bluesteel · Post by **bluesteel** » Thu Jun 01, 2006 9:45 am

8O

thats some damn bad luck alright

hope ya get better soon

stamp_licker · Post by **stamp_licker** » Thu Jun 01, 2006 3:00 pm

Thats no good.plenty of time to research now.
also n/a 4 plug ecu code AA620 A11 000 R33

subanator · Post by **subanator** » Thu Jun 01, 2006 10:08 pm

subelover, hope you have better luck with your Subie. That sounded nasty.

I might get the back off the ECU for a little look see now seeing there is a difference.

The "check valve" in the vac line, is this recommended? I cant find mine, so when it switches from vac to boost I hope it doesnt mess with the signals for correct tune? If I need to get one, what doner cars have them ? (not necessarily Subaru either for wrecking yard shopping)

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Fri Jun 02, 2006 5:18 pm

Subinator,... What check valve do you mean?

And also, if your running a 89 ecu, there is no pressure switch to tell the ecu that there is boost an vac. That was only on the 85-86 models.

Gannon

subanator · Post by **subanator** » Sat Jun 03, 2006 12:13 am

Check valve = one way valve in vac line running from intake rubber boot, to EGR solenoid.

See Download Manual EA82 Part 1, Section 2-1, page 10.
And relevant vac circuits in that section.

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Sat Jun 03, 2006 8:01 am

Looks like it is to stop positive pressure at the egr valve during boost, so you will need one.

I will check my motor and get back to ya

subanator · Post by **subanator** » Tue Jun 13, 2006 11:49 pm

the_postie wrote:Thats no good.plenty of time to research now.
also n/a 4 plug ecu code AA620 A11 000 R33

One of the same in mine, a n/a one, code on the EE-Prom is R310EU-2. Its single layer (no knock sensor board - non turbo) but has other mini boards mounted on edge to the motherboard. I believe it will run a Turbo engine ok?

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Wed Jun 14, 2006 7:15 pm

It should run it ok. It wont retard your timing if there is pinging, and i wouldn't expect 200hp out of it either.
I dont see a problem if it is run under stock conditions/general driving

I am unsure of what you mean by the mini boards,... do you mean the power transistors mounted on the edge of the board that are attached to the case via their heatsink.

I looked at my EGR setup, i have one hose going to the solenoid valve, it goes to a T piece, one goes to the throttle body and the other goes to the EGR valve

Gannon