What did you do to improve your soobie today

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun Apr 08, 2012 10:56 pm

It aint the LEGO some claim it is .....

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sun Apr 08, 2012 11:07 pm

steptoe wrote:It aint the LEGO some claim it is .....

WRONG mate! It's JUST like Lego, you've got to know what part to use to make it all work

I can now use the L series PS pump with the EJ reservoir as a direct bolt in replacement

I can also use the other EJ PS pump with the larger mounting pattern as I've got that bracket from the 1st PS pump

Cheers

Bennie

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Thu Apr 12, 2012 7:31 pm

I replaced the two short and small diameter coolant hoses on the ea81 manifold each side of the carbie. 20 years old I thought it better to replace the last of the hoses that were original before spending heaps on quality coolant. One goes from opposite the main exit for the coolant opposite the temp sender unit. I drain all the coolant to replace it. While small hoses were off I placed my mouth over the expansion bottle filler and blew. That resulted in the coolant running through the pipes and the engine then out the manifold at this point. So I plan soon to cut this new hoses and place a 'T' piece there with a tap to allow the air to escape when filling because a large air pocket remains in the engine when filling with coolant.

taza · Post by **taza** » Fri Apr 13, 2012 12:03 am

I finally figured out why the Foz seems so gutless compared to other Foresters..... the fuel filter hasn't been changed in about 100,000km..... the owners manual says every 45-50k km..... let just say now there is about 25% more power and no hesitation/lag.

So the maths.
Slow car + Taz = unhappy
Foz + new fuel filter = Taz very very happy

guyph_01 · Post by **guyph_01** » Fri Apr 13, 2012 1:40 am

taza wrote:I finally figured out why the Foz seems so gutless compared to other Foresters..... the fuel filter hasn't been changed in about 100,000km..... the owners manual says every 45-50k km..... let just say now there is about 25% more power and no hesitation/lag.

So the maths.
Slow car + Taz = unhappy
Foz + new fuel filter = Taz very very happy

Lol, Yeah it makes a huge difference. Plenty of my mates can't believe how much better the car drive after i convince them to do a major service replacing all filters, plugs and for some leads and gearbox oil. All of the cheap cars we get are early 90ies and who knows when those filters and oils have been last replaced:)

thunder039 · Post by **thunder039** » Fri Apr 13, 2012 9:11 am

its amazing what a good service can do!

thunder039 · Post by **thunder039** » Fri Apr 13, 2012 11:54 am

finally replaced my front strut!

so no more bent steering
also changed my gear box oil, never had it done since ive had the car so hoping it makes the gearbox feel a lot smoother

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Fri Apr 13, 2012 9:02 pm

Finally got off my bum and did something.
Sent my radiator in to Edwardstown radiators 1111 south road st Mary's. Recommended by Subaru. Walked in the door and as soon as he saw it he said "Oh an old Subaru radiator" I knew as soon as he said that I was in the right place. There going to fix it up and get a recovery style cap. I get it back Monday.
Then I took my heads block and pistons into Thomas Knight at Knight engines. 4/4 byre av somerton park. (also recommended by subaru) Next to eblen motors collision repair.
He knows what he's doing and am very happy to leave it in his hands. Should get it back in a few weeks. He is going to fix the small crack in the heads in between the valves ( apparently all subies have them) then valves and heads fixed. Then block faces checked, bores honed and new rings.

Cheers Cam

revmax · Post by **revmax** » Fri Apr 13, 2012 9:53 pm

Brumby Kid wrote:Finally got off my bum and did something.
Sent my radiator in to Edwardstown radiators 1111 south road st Mary's. Recommended by Subaru. Walked in the door and as soon as he saw it he said "Oh an old Subaru radiator" I knew as soon as he said that I was in the right place. There going to fix it up and get a recovery style cap. I get it back Monday.
Then I took my heads block and pistons into Thomas Knight at Knight engines. 4/4 byre av somerton park. (also recommended by subaru) Next to eblen motors collision repair.
He knows what he's doing and am very happy to leave it in his hands. Should get it back in a few weeks. He is going to fix the small crack in the heads in between the valves ( apparently all subies have them) then valves and heads fixed. Then block faces checked, bores honed and new rings.

Cheers Cam

NICE !!

BTW not all soobies have cracks between the valve ports.

Hey Cam get ya Cam reground while she is this far apart. Cam followers will have to be refaced as well. Its cheap power. Cost me about $120 (I think) for a regrind and followers refaced for a mega lumpy cam for aero use.
Got mine done at WADE cams, ask them for there advise on what would suit you.

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Fri Apr 13, 2012 11:10 pm

Thanks,
Thought about it but don't wanna do bearings, and the block isn't split.
But if he finds anything it may end up that way.

Cheers Cam

revmax · Post by **revmax** » Fri Apr 13, 2012 11:20 pm

fair enough

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Apr 14, 2012 8:03 am

Good advice for a younger member from another little bit older member, gone this far may as well split block and check crank and at least a linish and new bearings, and replace the rubber oval neoprene orange O ring between blocks water transfer passage. Then you can go the cam and reface lifters - about 6 bucks a lifter - 16/56 cam, you won't regret it !

B00sting · Post by **B00sting** » Sat Apr 14, 2012 4:46 pm

nearly finished the pos vortex box removal.
trying to get rear window out now without breaking it, what a pain in the ass.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun Apr 15, 2012 8:08 am

Hope I still qualify - it was yesterday

Gave a mates exhaust gas analyser a rip (its maiden voyage actually so had to assemble it for him too ) on my Brumby LPG.

Idle AFR of 13.4:1 , so leaned it off with a thumb screw to get ideal 'emissions' setting of 15.5:1 (14.7:1 for petrol) . Then a run out on the road the amazing little Impco 125 mixer achieved stoich of 15.5:1 most of the time, with occasional steps up a few points while cruising, richness on tramping it richened down to 14.2:1 and dropping to min 29.9: in backing off situations.

Pretty happy with the old Impco delivering these 'authorities desired 'emissions readings out of the box. Just as well too, been in 20,000km !

2nd Hand Yank · Post by **2nd Hand Yank** » Sun Apr 15, 2012 9:07 am

try to figure out what caused my engine failure.

I was driving along as normal when the engine suddenly felt like it had a stumbling load, akin to the A/C compressor only much heavier, for a few seconds before the motor shut itself off and the engine oil light came on. Confused, I pulled over to check the oil. The oil level was fine. I now can't restart the car. The motor will turn over, but will not fire. "Matt" happened to be nearby so after waiting a few minutes, him and another mechanic bloke had a look to see what's wrong. I'd already checked that all my leads were connected, noticed some loose wires and pushed them back on snug. Nothing. Matt reckons there was no spark coming out of the ignition coil, using an allen key to extend the ignition lead, testing for a spark on my radiator cap, then on himself to see if he gets a bit of a zap.

No, nothing. I figured something failed all of a sudden, either fuel or ignition, since it didn't run rough for long, rather just stopped.

Will keep you all updated.

I'm going to buy a new coil and fuel filter. We looked at the fuel filter and it looked pretty buggered, but that's probably not why my car stopped. Regardless, I've never changed it so it's probably due for one. (I bought the car at 305k and now I'm at 328k

)

sven '2' · Post by **sven '2'** » Sun Apr 15, 2012 9:52 am

2nd Hand Yank wrote:try to figure out what caused my engine failure.

I was driving along as normal when the engine suddenly felt like it had a stumbling load, akin to the A/C compressor only much heavier, for a few seconds before the motor shut itself off and the engine oil light came on. Confused, I pulled over to check the oil. The oil level was fine. I now can't restart the car. The motor will turn over, but will not fire. "Matt" happened to be nearby so after waiting a few minutes, him and another mechanic bloke had a look to see what's wrong. I'd already checked that all my leads were connected, noticed some loose wires and pushed them back on snug. Nothing. Matt reckons there was no spark coming out of the ignition coil, using an allen key to extend the ignition lead, testing for a spark on my radiator cap, then on himself to see if he gets a bit of a zap. No, nothing. I figured something failed all of a sudden, either fuel or ignition, since it didn't run rough for long, rather just stopped.

Will keep you all updated.

I'm going to buy a new coil and fuel filter. We looked at the fuel filter and it looked pretty buggered, but that's probably not why my car stopped. Regardless, I've never changed it so it's probably due for one. (I bought the car at 305k and now I'm at 328k )

Coil maybe...sounds like a timing belt

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun Apr 15, 2012 11:41 am

anothr for the dizzy side TB. To check pull cap off, ignition off in fourth or fifth gear and nudge car back or forward (not on a bloody incline of any sort please!!) see if dizzy rotor moves with engine crank pulley turning. Alternative just spin motor with starter in nuetral.

The dizzy side belt also drives oil pump sprocket - reason oil light comes on me thinks

themn., if we are correct search in here for a lot of posts on TBs on EA82

thunder039 · Post by **thunder039** » Sun Apr 15, 2012 11:54 am

2nd Hand Yank wrote:try to figure out what caused my engine failure.

I was driving along as normal when the engine suddenly felt like it had a stumbling load, akin to the A/C compressor only much heavier, for a few seconds before the motor shut itself off and the engine oil light came on. Confused, I pulled over to check the oil. The oil level was fine. I now can't restart the car. The motor will turn over, but will not fire. "Matt" happened to be nearby so after waiting a few minutes, him and another mechanic bloke had a look to see what's wrong. I'd already checked that all my leads were connected, noticed some loose wires and pushed them back on snug. Nothing. Matt reckons there was no spark coming out of the ignition coil, using an allen key to extend the ignition lead, testing for a spark on my radiator cap, then on himself to see if he gets a bit of a zap. No, nothing. I figured something failed all of a sudden, either fuel or ignition, since it didn't run rough for long, rather just stopped.

Will keep you all updated.

I'm going to buy a new coil and fuel filter. We looked at the fuel filter and it looked pretty buggered, but that's probably not why my car stopped. Regardless, I've never changed it so it's probably due for one. (I bought the car at 305k and now I'm at 328k )

bit of bad luck hopefully its something simple.

i changed the wipers on the brumby seeming were coming up into winter, now i might be able to see while it rains, although intermidiate wipers would be great

sjm69 · Post by **sjm69** » Sun Apr 15, 2012 2:01 pm

Washed it

2nd Hand Yank · Post by **2nd Hand Yank** » Sun Apr 15, 2012 3:15 pm

steptoe wrote:anothr for the dizzy side TB. To check pull cap off, ignition off in fourth or fifth gear and nudge car back or forward (not on a bloody incline of any sort please!!) see if dizzy rotor moves with engine crank pulley turning. Alternative just spin motor with starter in nuetral.

The dizzy side belt also drives oil pump sprocket - reason oil light comes on me thinks

themn., if we are correct search in here for a lot of posts on TBs on EA82

Interesting.

I changed the coil and while it seemed to turn the motor over harder at first, pretty soon that starter sound turned into a fast chatter sound and I noticed that the motor is not turning over as fast as it should.

Have I killed my starting motor?

I will try checking the dizzy now...