ej22 converted vortex
Replacing the crank angle sensor (i think thats it, the one under the alternator) fixed engine performance problems for me, wasnt stuttering or anything but.
Im thinking your problem sounds like either fuel or air intake.
Have you done a compression test on each cylinder?
Im thinking your problem sounds like either fuel or air intake.
Have you done a compression test on each cylinder?
MY03 Outback JDM Turbo Conversion
Taza: "Is this phone quad cam?"
Taza: "Is this phone quad cam?"
well i can recomend anyone running a obdI ej22 car should make this cable, faults are so easy to see in real time and stored codes. plus you can clear faults with the press of a button!
im going to comp test it and i really need to run the scan tool as its driving (need a friend to drive, not safe to do two things at once)
might end up with a dohc ej25 run by ej22 wiring ecu after all..... time will tell
im going to comp test it and i really need to run the scan tool as its driving (need a friend to drive, not safe to do two things at once)
might end up with a dohc ej25 run by ej22 wiring ecu after all..... time will tell


ok, well i fired it up with the scan tool connected again to day.
it starts fine and idles nicely untill you bring the revs up and hold them constant anywhere above 2000rpm. the the idle air control valve shows a fault and on releseing the pedal it drops to normal idle and the fault code goes out.
another thing i noticed, because i switched in a known auto ecu just to see what the scan tool read;
my ecu from a manual car said its a 90-91 4eat ecu- showed auto off in menu
and my known auto said its a 92 auto ecu- showed auto on in menu
so i guess there is more than the wiring to tell the ecu what it is.
it starts fine and idles nicely untill you bring the revs up and hold them constant anywhere above 2000rpm. the the idle air control valve shows a fault and on releseing the pedal it drops to normal idle and the fault code goes out.
another thing i noticed, because i switched in a known auto ecu just to see what the scan tool read;
my ecu from a manual car said its a 90-91 4eat ecu- showed auto off in menu
and my known auto said its a 92 auto ecu- showed auto on in menu
so i guess there is more than the wiring to tell the ecu what it is.

been a busy rainny day here in adelaide, poked around some more....
tryed 2 iacv electrical tops (the base moves freely) - no differant
tryed 2 o2 sensors (the spare i had was worse than the one in there!) - no differant
tryed 2 tps sensors - no differant
i then disconnected the tps and it would hold at any rpm with no problems, well other than high rpm on start up and i dont think its very wise to drive around with out the tps connected?
what could cause the iacv to fault, even though the problem isnt the iacv?
.....still need to comp test it, but it feels real strong
tryed 2 iacv electrical tops (the base moves freely) - no differant
tryed 2 o2 sensors (the spare i had was worse than the one in there!) - no differant
tryed 2 tps sensors - no differant
i then disconnected the tps and it would hold at any rpm with no problems, well other than high rpm on start up and i dont think its very wise to drive around with out the tps connected?
what could cause the iacv to fault, even though the problem isnt the iacv?
.....still need to comp test it, but it feels real strong

- steptoe
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it is a bit like the EA82 mpfi diagnostic reason - "solenoid is sticked to open, or sticked to shut" where I have replaced solenoids with working ones - work with a battery hooked up and suck blow check thing happening fixed code. Can you disconnect IACV electrically and get an improvement in running and reporting, or fisiclly block it off as a diagnostic measure ?
- El_Freddo
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Well I'll be, that's pretty good! What's the program you've got there and where can I get a copy - and what does it plug in with?? probably won't work on a mac thoughshuffbag wrote:its actually a video bennie, click it and have a look

You don't want to remove the solenoid as this will change it's settings - I don't think a lot of people know how to adjust the IACV settings.shuffbag wrote:i have un pluged the tps and it will hold revs but not the iacv, i have however tryed removing the iacv solenoid but leaving it conected to the loom. holding the iacv shut with no change from memory.
Two things I'm thinking it could be: 1st: The IACV is sticky, remove it and clean as they crude up with crap from what I've read, Venom did it with his EJ or EZ, can't remember which one - but you'll need a new gasket for it as it usually shags out as you remove it, I think there's also a coolant passage associated with the IACV too, so be aware of coolant loss.
2nd: A dirty TPS - what *could* be happening is the TPS contact tabs are dirty as are the slide contacts, this could be resulting in the contact area building heat and creating the issue. Remove the TPS, drill the two brass coloured tabs on the back of it, remove the cover and clean the contact points with some sort of cleaner solvent that doesn't leave any residue. Replace cover (it should click on), re-install TPS, set it where it needs to be then put a cable tie around it to make sure the cover isn't lost, I've lost one before from this...
The only other thing I can think it might be, and it's a long shot is that little device that's got 5 to 7 wires going to/from it that used to mount on the EJ's firewall prior to conversion - where is this located? I'm not sure if it's got any thing to do with it but I thought I'd ask.
Cheers
Bennie
i think your talking about the ignighter? i know i have a second one around...
iacv moves free and fine, i've also tryed 2 tps's but i might open my spare and clean it. i have maf cleaner that should do the trick.
im going to replace all vac lines in case its getting unmetered air in there.
it is a b10 scan tool, not sure if it will work with a mac. build the cord and buy a real old laptop (can get them for $50, dont need much battery life for this)
i made the simple cable and it works fine check this link.
http://www.surrealmirage.com/vrg3/b10scan/
iacv moves free and fine, i've also tryed 2 tps's but i might open my spare and clean it. i have maf cleaner that should do the trick.
im going to replace all vac lines in case its getting unmetered air in there.
it is a b10 scan tool, not sure if it will work with a mac. build the cord and buy a real old laptop (can get them for $50, dont need much battery life for this)
i made the simple cable and it works fine check this link.
http://www.surrealmirage.com/vrg3/b10scan/
