EA82 crankshaft front oil seal

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Sat Jun 09, 2012 10:46 am

After recently changing the timing belts/tensioners, oil pump seals, camshaft seals, water pump and gasket and front crankshaft seal on the L series all was OK...for a while

Due to the front CV's clicking even in a straight line (but only under power) was under the car last night and noticed an oil drip directly under the oil pump. this is where it had been leakin before when the LH timing belt broke.
The leak is nowhere near as bad as it was before I changed everything nor was it there when all the new stuff was installed. there car has now done about 530ks since the new installs.
I am thinking it may be the crankshaft front seal again but cant see why this might be. the new seal went in square and the crankshaft did not appear to have any wear grooves/marks.
When I took the old crankshaft seal out it was sitting a bit below being flush with the front of the engine and was not rubbing on the rear of the LH timing belt pulley. This how I installed the new seal.
I seem to recall the new seal went in quite easily which I did not really expect (not much resistance) but thinking about this now when it did go in I dont recall any shoulder for the seal to sit on and so stop it going back into the engine. Does anyone recall if there is a shoulder for the outer lip of the seal to bed on or does anyone have an EA82 pulled apart to take a look and tell me what is down in the bore where the seal sits and the crankshaft pulley comes out.

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Sat Jun 09, 2012 11:12 am

I'm sure the manual says how far to put the seal in but I always just put them in so you can see the tappered lip of the block. Sorry no pics to show.

I make sure the outer surface area of the seal is clean and dry (both seal and block) then I use a small dab of Threebond to hold it in. I also use a good splash of PBR Rubber Grease on the inside of the seal to ensure the seal doesn't get hot and stick to the crank.

I also recommend genuine seals only. I have used aftermarket ones a few times when I first started on Subies, only to have the customers come back with leaks, so from then on it's genuine only and I've never had one come back.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Jun 09, 2012 11:31 am

Me too for the just see the chamfer when seal is seated. Have popped an EA81 rear in too far when I did my 5 speed conversion - time out to go git anothery

I used to also seal the seal to body with goo but lately stopped - factory didn't

Not the oil pressure switch ? Tridon TPS006 or was it TPS008 ???

Another for genuine seals, and did you lube its inner edge ?

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Sat Jun 09, 2012 11:54 am

I did lube the seal with engine oil as it was slid over the crankshaft and the lip didnt deform, it felt good going on.
Sorry but I am trying to picture -
"so you can see the tappered lip of the block"
Do you mean the outer face of the block ?
Can the new seal get pushed back enough to go into the engine.
I am kicking myself now to not have paid more attention to the depth of the bore around the crankshaft, its general construction and if there was a lip/shoulder down in the bore.
I am wondering if the seal has worked its way out somehow and maybe even rubbing on the rear of the LH belt pulley ?

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Jun 09, 2012 12:13 pm

,

Surely I am worth more money

Went out in the nice sunny rays, wrstled with the belt pulley or rather the corrosion within, so you can see how the makers fit them, then inside in pic #2 you can see a drain hole, the dirty ring marks left behind by the seal in place - you may block it if pushed in too far, but doubt it. Oil pump seals are below crank seal and the pics I supplied are up right way

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Uploaded with ImageShack.us

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Jun 09, 2012 12:25 pm

Don't kick yourself - imagine if u had paid some gifted individual to do it for you and got same result - rather you paid the owner of the workshop $100 an hour, who in turn employed, insured, sick leaved, holiday paid and tolerated his worker on about $18 an hour.

I too have a stuff up, think it was using gas thread tape to seal the threads of a difficult master cylinder bleed nipples, finall got good pedal, no air bubbles, now seem to have brake fluid wicking out along thread tape

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Sat Jun 09, 2012 1:03 pm

steptoe.
Absolutely brilliant, thanks for that.
At least I can say I put it in the correct distance.
There still doesnt seem to be a lip/shoulder to allow the seal to be set in square ?
I did it by lining up the face of the seal with the inner champher of the bore putting the seal below the face of the block about 1mm. My logic here was for the face on the seal to not rub on the back of the LH belt pulley.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Jun 09, 2012 2:30 pm

Oh, you need the tool we all have been hiding from you

Ask your dealer for a price and availablity on front crankshaft oil sealinstaller part # 499567000

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Sat Jun 09, 2012 3:06 pm

OK..I see what it looks like (Fuji L series factory manual)
I can see it but how does it work.
I can see you hit it with a hammer (section 2-3 page 50 Fig 93).
Is the only purpose of this tool to ensure the seal is aligned correctly or does it also set the seal to the correct depth and maybe do something else ?

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Jun 09, 2012 3:09 pm

Dunno, never seen one, done 'em all by hand eye co-rodination - my EA81 rear uis a god example, so is my typos

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Sat Jun 09, 2012 3:23 pm

Here it is

http://www.costplustools.com/Kent-Moore ... 10634.html

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Jun 09, 2012 6:36 pm

Nice find, does the pic help answer your question on its tasks performed?

I got a little excited on that site and looked up the 499987200 to no found - EA82 head bolt access jigger. NLA Subaru either

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Sun Jun 10, 2012 2:00 pm

steptoe (or anyone available)
Are you still able to measure the depth of the chamfer from the face of the block to the inner edge of the chamfer.
A straight edge like a 6" rule across the blocks face and measure with another rule would do. I just dont want to cover the oil drain that sits behind the seal.
What I am trying to do is find out the measurement from the face of the block to the face of the oil seal.
I will then make a tool with a flange to sit on the blocks face, a spigot sticking out (with the dimention is am asking for to set the depth) and a locating bush to go over the crankshaft and the key.
I have the old seal so I can get the inner diametor (ID) to find the crankshaft outer diameter (OD) and with this I can get the OD of the seal to set the OD of the spigot. All I need is to know how far from the block to the seal face to set the depth.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun Jun 10, 2012 6:28 pm

1.0 mm chamfer step
7.60mm from front face to start of drain hole that goes until 11.40mm from front face

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Mon Jun 11, 2012 9:12 am

steptoe
Sorry, I am being a pain in the posteria again. If I want a snug fit on the crankshaft I really suppose I cant go off the ID of the seal as this could differ depending on the seal and its wear/how much it flexes to fit over the crank etc
Any chance at all of measuring the diameter of the crank where the seal goes over it ?.
Thanks in anticipation.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Mon Jun 11, 2012 10:11 am

crank OD looks like 38mm, don't want a snug fit to get stuck on crank and there is a ...man, name of thing zipped right from brain ....KEYWAY! to think of too

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Mon Jun 11, 2012 10:57 am

Thanks steptoe thats all I need for now I think.
I am not worried about the keyway as I can cut this oversize on a Broaching machine or a shaper.
The keyway in the tool just needs to be big enough to clear the key in the shaft.
You have given me the most important dimensions being the crankshaft diameter and the distance from the block face to the seal face.
I can easily go 38.5mm or even 39mm on the ID of the tool and it will still locate pretty evenly. See how I go when I get time.
Thanks again.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Mon Jun 11, 2012 11:15 am

No worries, go with 39 just in case of error

Lucky bugger with access to the machinery ...

Sorta wished I was a cashed up vulture circling when my old high school closed down ...metalwork room machinery...and all those asbestos topped workbenches