replacing cv joints sos

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parko24
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replacing cv joints sos

Post by parko24 » Sat Jun 09, 2012 3:23 pm

gday, iv been tinkering with my lseries for a while now and have taken up all of the maintainance with stuff all idea. im presently replacing the driver side cv and i cannot get the shaft out due to this 1 pain in the backside lock pin pictured, ive tried yelling and spitting at it but nothing seems to work, can any one please give me a clue.
cheers parko
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Cliff R
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Post by Cliff R » Sat Jun 09, 2012 3:30 pm

It is called a Seloc pin or a Roll pin.
I get mine out by using a pin punch just a bit smaller than the pin itself and hammering it out.
If you dont have a pin punch set a piece or round bar or a long bolt with the same idea, eg, a bit smaller than the pin.
I have found that one side of the pin may be slightly below the surface of the CV coupling surface so I usually hammer from this side as I can get a good "line up" with the punch and it does not skip off too much
The pin is like a semi tube with a slit down one side that springs in as the pin is instertedhttp://www.boltfast.co.za/product.php?p ... ame=&cat=2.

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MTB92
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Post by MTB92 » Sat Jun 09, 2012 3:38 pm

what ever you do, dont use something that could slip into the pin. I have done this on my first cv change and ended up having to grind the cup flat! If you do, the more you belt it the more it will open the pin and make it harder to get out. :mad:
Cutting the end off a screw driver usually works well.

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Cliff R
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Post by Cliff R » Sat Jun 09, 2012 3:46 pm

Yes, something jammed inside the pin is a real pain and when I have managed to do this I have had to turn the CV over and hammer something small down inside the pin to knock whatever I have jammed inside the pin in the first place. This does not always work either as the pin is usually full of crap of some sort.

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Brad_Stacey
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Post by Brad_Stacey » Sat Jun 09, 2012 3:54 pm

Yeah, don't use anything too small, a 6mm punch is recommended.
Two 1/2inch extensions on top of the punch makes it easy to swing the hammer.

Also when you put it back together it only goes one way.
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parko24
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Post by parko24 » Sat Jun 09, 2012 5:17 pm

cheers for the help, i ended up fashioning a tool to do the job out of a set of terrible screw drivers. gotta stop being so gentle with it and bash it a bit more it seems.
side note i need a lift kit! dont suppose theres any lseries enthusiasts that know where to find them?

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steptoe
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Post by steptoe » Sat Jun 09, 2012 6:32 pm

Shees , don't ask me, I still have a diff in the yard that has swallowed up my pin punch stamped SUBARU !
You'll notice the CVs other nd called a double offset joint has a dimple, recess on one side, not the other, think it is to help ID which way pin goes in, bit of a guide anyway. When reassemble you need to match up the splines so the hole with the valley through its centre, needs the mountain in the centre of the stub - if you get my drift....

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Cliff R
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Post by Cliff R » Sat Jun 09, 2012 10:22 pm

Yes again.
When you put the joint back on the spline it will certainly go on in a heap of different positions but only one where the pin will line up and go back in.

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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Sat Jun 09, 2012 10:45 pm

From memory it's a 6.5mm pin punch that you need. I'm like steptoe and have a broken screw driver shaft that's a perfect fit for the job.

Once you've got the perfect fit or a pin punch for the job, hammer away! Once they start to move they should come out easily ;)

Cheers

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purp
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Post by purp » Sun Jun 10, 2012 7:38 am

I've got a tent peg that was exactly the right diameter. It has been used for many a driveshaft over the last ten years.

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steptoe
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Post by steptoe » Sun Jun 10, 2012 8:53 am

Hmmm, got a bag of tent pegs on accidental 'loan ' :)

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scoobymine
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Post by scoobymine » Mon Jun 11, 2012 12:10 pm

Blunt drill bit turned upside down does it for me. And you can get the perfect size.

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alang
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Post by alang » Mon Jun 11, 2012 12:25 pm

sounds good that's my next job on the brumby, driver side has rip in inner boot and lower ball joints are knackered. so once i fix the water problem up on stands and check the boots and shafts. the ball joints i purchased have grease nipples on the bottom will they fit up inside the hub with them on just asking haven't done this type before

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Cliff R
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Post by Cliff R » Mon Jun 11, 2012 2:32 pm

Ball joints on the grease nipples.
Good stuff just like the old days.
Where did you get them from ?
I probably will need some for the MY wagon in the near future as everything is the original 1982 gear.

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alang
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Post by alang » Mon Jun 11, 2012 3:06 pm


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Cliff R
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Post by Cliff R » Mon Jun 11, 2012 3:13 pm

alang
The pics do not show grease nipples but a good find.

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alang
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Post by alang » Mon Jun 11, 2012 3:27 pm

i know but they are the same ones i purchased and had them in the box loose in a plastic bag

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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Tue Jun 12, 2012 12:08 am

alang wrote:the ball joints i purchased have grease nipples on the bottom will they fit up inside the hub with them on just asking haven't done this type before
How does this work since it would be in the strut? You still have to pull it out to grease it up, or is it a grease before install and forget?

I've not had an issue with lack of grease in ball joints, what does them in for me is a tear or tiny hole in the rubber boot that's meant to keep the dust and crap out. Once you've got dirt in there they wear out really quick.

Cheers

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parko24
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Post by parko24 » Wed Jun 13, 2012 11:58 am

got rhough the getting it out part took a thousand calls to find somewhere that had the lock pins, now i dont wanna seem to stupo but is there a trick to putting them in? i fear iv already stuffed.

pic, the offset joint i went to put the pin in what i originally thought was the correct way it got stuck so i tried the other way hoping itll work and or push the first pin out.
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stewbaru
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Post by stewbaru » Wed Jun 13, 2012 12:19 pm

I'd say your one spline out, you will have to get one of those pins out with pliers or something then put a pin punch through to knock the other one out, try not to get it stuck as well. Take the cup off then get a torch and make sure that the holes are lined up perfectly before you put the pin through again.

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