L series "stop lamp" warning light
- El_Freddo
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L series "stop lamp" warning light
G'day all,
I'm seeking information regarding the stop lamp warning light. Mine comes on from time to time, there's no issue with the tail lights - they both work and my stop lights work too.
This light is not on all the time, sometimes it's on, sometimes it's not. During a trip it won't go off after it comes on and it could be on for a couple of days when ever it's driven or for just that ride.
It's got me stumped - I've checked out my "floating" lead for the trailer plug in the rear but that checks out. No fuses have been blown either.
Any ideas?
The only thing I've read that it could be is some circuit board on the driver's rear light - but why would it be on and off rather than on all the time? This has been occurring for a few years but I've never done anything about it. Now curiosity has killed the cat plus I'd just like to clear the problem and not have to worry about it until it turns on for a real problem...
Cheers
Bennie
I'm seeking information regarding the stop lamp warning light. Mine comes on from time to time, there's no issue with the tail lights - they both work and my stop lights work too.
This light is not on all the time, sometimes it's on, sometimes it's not. During a trip it won't go off after it comes on and it could be on for a couple of days when ever it's driven or for just that ride.
It's got me stumped - I've checked out my "floating" lead for the trailer plug in the rear but that checks out. No fuses have been blown either.
Any ideas?
The only thing I've read that it could be is some circuit board on the driver's rear light - but why would it be on and off rather than on all the time? This has been occurring for a few years but I've never done anything about it. Now curiosity has killed the cat plus I'd just like to clear the problem and not have to worry about it until it turns on for a real problem...
Cheers
Bennie
Dunno Bennie,
I assume you've read the same thread on here from '06.
At a guess I'd say that the circuit board behind the tail light measures your stoplight circuit resistance and your on the border line and hence the intermittent nature.
I'm sure you've cleaned all the contacts and cleaned the circuit board with pcb cleaner.
Next is swapping out the circuit board I guess but that won't solve the mystery.
You could always just remove the warning light.
Sorry mate, I had intended to be helpful.
I assume you've read the same thread on here from '06.
At a guess I'd say that the circuit board behind the tail light measures your stoplight circuit resistance and your on the border line and hence the intermittent nature.
I'm sure you've cleaned all the contacts and cleaned the circuit board with pcb cleaner.
Next is swapping out the circuit board I guess but that won't solve the mystery.
You could always just remove the warning light.
Sorry mate, I had intended to be helpful.
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- steptoe
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One in the dash cluster or the row at the bottom ?
The one below in mine would flicker on brakes applied randomly until the brake bulb finally died. MY the same. Think it is the sensitivity of the coil doo dad in the RHS light assy only.
Handbrake and brake fluid are two other triggers for in dash cluster light
The one below in mine would flicker on brakes applied randomly until the brake bulb finally died. MY the same. Think it is the sensitivity of the coil doo dad in the RHS light assy only.
Handbrake and brake fluid are two other triggers for in dash cluster light
- littlewhiteute
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- Location: Brisbane
The circuit is calibrated for 2 x 21w stop lamps, 42 watts = 3.5 amps.
Any deviation from this will cause the failure lamp to light up.
Are the stoplamps the same brightness? Are they working when the failure lamp is on?
I'd isolate the towbar brake light wire away from the factory wiring to test for a few days.
Any deviation from this will cause the failure lamp to light up.
Are the stoplamps the same brightness? Are they working when the failure lamp is on?
I'd isolate the towbar brake light wire away from the factory wiring to test for a few days.
Regards
Gary
Gary
LOLstilson wrote: Sorry mate, I had intended to be helpful.
I've got the same thing, except it went on when a globe was burnt, replaced it and it stayed on 24/7. Recently replaced the globes with LED ones and it stopped coming on but rear lights still work. Ohh and because mine didn't have the third center light i also added a LED strip to and spliced it in the brake wire. Maybe its got the correct watts or amps now.... Anyway, ive got no idea what happened, all i know everything works and the stupid thing doesn't come on. LOL
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- El_Freddo
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Yeah that's where I found out about the circuit board on the RH tail light...stilson wrote:I assume you've read the same thread on here from '06.
Not yet, only read about it tonight...stilson wrote:I'm sure you've cleaned all the contacts and cleaned the circuit board with pcb cleaner.
Row at the bottom - the only one that says "Stop Lamp". The one on the dash is a failure light and I'd be much more concerned about that one!steptoe wrote:One in the dash cluster or the row at the bottom ?
Interesting. Both lights are the same brightness, both lights work when this light is on. These globes have not been replaced in the 7+ years that I've had Ruby Scoo.littlewhiteute wrote:The circuit is calibrated for 2 x 21w stop lamps, 42 watts = 3.5 amps.
Any deviation from this will cause the failure lamp to light up.
Are the stoplamps the same brightness? Are they working when the failure lamp is on?
I'll see how it goes. I've got a few things to work with on this onelittlewhiteute wrote:I'd isolate the towbar brake light wire away from the factory wiring to test for a few days.
Thanks fellas, I'll report back soon.
Cheers
Bennie
- steptoe
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Can be hard to check if bulb not working at time light came on in my case, coz it'd just flicker on brake apply or if stayed on bright could not get out to check lights at same time, off pdal on again and lights work OK.
Ive used flicker as a warning a bulb is about to blow, in weeks maybe and it does eventually totally stop and need replacement. Aded a third normal and third LED without upsetting the warning light to MY and L series
Owner manual warns to replace bulb as soon as warning light illuminates as it will not warn when both brake lights are toast!
Ive used flicker as a warning a bulb is about to blow, in weeks maybe and it does eventually totally stop and need replacement. Aded a third normal and third LED without upsetting the warning light to MY and L series
Owner manual warns to replace bulb as soon as warning light illuminates as it will not warn when both brake lights are toast!
- Bantum
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Calibration ...
It should be noted that the circuit rating varies between models, I have a Touring wagon (1983) where the same thing happens if you use the higher rated globe, so I went to a slightly lower 18w lamps. No more warning lamp ...littlewhiteute wrote:The circuit is calibrated for 2 x 21w stop lamps, 42 watts = 3.5 amps.
Any deviation from this will cause the failure lamp to light up.
- El_Freddo
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True that, but this has been occurring for a number of years now - and I know that both of my rear lights work as I park reversed in my mate's driveway and can see the stop lights on the garage door. Plus at night I can see the road signs light up behind me when I use my brakes - they worksteptoe wrote:Owner manual warns to replace bulb as soon as warning light illuminates as it will not warn when both brake lights are toast!
It didn't come on tonight (for the record)
Cheers
Bennie
Take both the bulbs out on both sides and check that they are the correct specs. Never had a problem for years on my brumby and then it started doing that all of a sudden. Both tail lights worked fine. Then one day 1 blew and i went to replace it and found it was the wrong wattage. Change both for piece of mind and its only a couple of bucks.