How to replace front axles?

2nd Hand Yank · Post by **2nd Hand Yank** » Thu Dec 06, 2012 7:02 am

I believe one or both of my inner CV joints are buggered.
Is it easier to replace the entire axle assembly so I don't have to refit the CV's?

Gregories lists nearly 20 steps to remove the axle including disconnecting the speedo cable.
I don't see why the speedo cable needs to be disconnected for an axle swap.

Advice?

Thanks

AlpineRaven · Post by **AlpineRaven** » Thu Dec 06, 2012 10:19 am

G'day,
Based on my experience on Liberty (I dont know what you have), I dont think speedo cable needs to be disconnected.

1) Remove wheel
2) mark the bolts on the strut assembly that holds the hub to preserve the wheel cucumber.
3) Undo the long bolt at the bottom of the hub
4) undo the castle nut on the CV joint, then spray WD40 into the spline because there is chance of rust build up there
5) then the hub should be free from the strut
6) I find its easier to remove the inner (gearbox) joint
7) I use soft hammer (wooden mullet will do avoid steel head hammers) to push the CV joint out of the hub.

CV joint/shaft should be removed by now.
9) either give to drive shaft specialist to replace the boots for you, might cost you about $60-$90 or do it yourself.

10) Remove the boot straps that holds the boots in.
11) move the boots to centre of the shaft
12) theres an circlip holding the ballbearing hosing in - remove that then it'll all come free, reverse order when you put together.

Tools required: CV joint Strap tool, pliers, screw drivers, spanners (sockets) grease and something to clean up with.

Personally i would do the original shaft unless they're noisy then get another set. if you get 2nd hand ones you dont know the history. I did have change over set while I had my Liberty. My wife's Liberty rears needs doing soon.

Cheers
AP

Post by **TOONGA** » Thu Dec 06, 2012 7:20 pm

AlpineRaven wrote: 2) mark the bolts on the strut assembly that holds the hub to preserve the wheel cucumber.
AP

I presume you mean camber?

still giggling sorry..

Matt didn't you watch the day I replaced your bearings ... SIGHS

and an informative link

showthread.php?t=22796

TOONGA

AlpineRaven · Post by **AlpineRaven** » Thu Dec 06, 2012 8:06 pm

TOONGA wrote:I presume you mean camber?

still giggling sorry..

Matt didn't you watch the day I replaced your bearings ... SIGHS

and an informative link

showthread.php?t=22796

TOONGA

*red faced* oops bloody autocorrect!
Cheers
AP

2nd Hand Yank · Post by **2nd Hand Yank** » Fri Dec 07, 2012 7:37 am

TOONGA wrote:I presume you mean camber?

still giggling sorry..

Matt didn't you watch the day I replaced your bearings ... SIGHS

and an informative link

showthread.php?t=22796

TOONGA

Cucumber.

Love auto-correct.

I did a bit... thanks for the link mate.

purp · Post by **purp** » Fri Dec 07, 2012 5:59 pm

Cucumber made me laugh

The first time I did a drive shaft was with a couple of (mechanic) friends sittiing giving instructions (and drinking). It seemed incredibly complex and hard at the time. Many years later, a drive shaft is a pretty easy job.

So I guess, give it a go with whatever advice you can gather, *if* you have someone around who can talk you through it when it gets scary.

GunFactory · Post by **GunFactory** » Sat Dec 08, 2012 9:37 am

Definitely give it a go, I just did all four front boots on my wagon in the last month. Very rewarding, time consuming the first time round (and fist side) but great fun when you have got the hang of it.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sat Dec 08, 2012 6:00 pm

Where the manual says you need a press, just use a big hammer and a block of wood to soften the blow so you don't damage the threads, or use a plastic/rubber mallet.

If you need to do it on a bench - remove the hub from the caliper, control arm and the strut. Then you can remove the drive shaft from the hub on a bench - also a great way to replace your bearings

It's a simple painful process. I wish the L series had the same setup as the EJ's where the hub is pressed into the bearing, not the drive shaft. Great setup!

Cheers

Bennie

2nd Hand Yank · Post by **2nd Hand Yank** » Sun Dec 23, 2012 10:19 am

Can someone suggest a list of tools I need before I start this?

I'd rather keep my L Series in driveable condition until I think I can finish replacing at least one axle.
I'd also like to get it done over the Christmas holidays if possible.

I already have a 2 kg sledge hammer, roughly 40 cm long arm.
I also have an assortment of pliers, though no circlip pliers.
I have a 1/2 drive socket wrench, but I need a 36mm socket?

I have 2 brand new "complete assembly" axles from FROG

Will I need to remove the wheel bearings?

Would it be hard to remove them?
If so, I'm wondering if buying new ones would make installation easier,
though I put new bearings in 20,000 km ago.

Post by **TOONGA** » Sun Dec 23, 2012 11:13 am

No need to replace the bearings (who put them in?) unless you want to go through the experience yourself, it won't make removing the axles any easier unless the bearing is stuck on the axle. (remember what happened then)

Ideally you need a soft face hammer (see above brackets:) )

you only need circlip pliers if you are rebuilding the shafts.

don't forget the 6mm punch/drift to remove the roll pins on the inner cv's

I would look into getting a 36mm 3/4 inch socket, breaker bar and extension bar (25mm square tube about 4 feet long)

and good luck with it

TOONGA

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Mon Dec 24, 2012 5:48 pm

TOONGA wrote:No need to replace the bearings

Unless you want to spend more money! 20k km they'll be fine for ages yet!

TOONGA wrote:I would look into getting a 36mm 3/4 inch socket, breaker bar and extension bar (25mm square tube about 4 feet long)

I swear by my one. It's an awesome piece of kit and it travels with me when touring - I carry spare drive shafts with me, just incase!

Cheers

Bennie