Yeah! Another tool my Dad bought while he was still in the UK fixing his mini, still in use today They do come in handy with the 1/2" drive on it, I would have thought these days most people would just use an air impact driver though.Bantum wrote:Got one these bad boys ... ?
Comes in handy for those items that wont loosen ...
Show us yer tools
- Silverbullet
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2874
- Joined: Mon Aug 23, 2010 6:20 pm
- Location: Adelaide
Will it ever end!?
-EA81 TWIN CARB!!!!
-L series 5 speed
-Custom paint job
-2" lift
-Full custom re-wire
-L series front end
-EA81 TWIN CARB!!!!
-L series 5 speed
-Custom paint job
-2" lift
-Full custom re-wire
-L series front end
- steptoe
- Master Member
- Posts: 11582
- Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: 14 miles outside Gotham City
High school made screwdriver. With a toughened blade, think it was heat treated to straw colour and also dipped in some hardening powder that was a greyish colour from memory.The tip was just made to look right, no measure, no size to match commercial sizes and it fits a wide variety of flat blade screw heads. Wish I was allowed to make a set , or at least a philips way back in 1980
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- Bantum
- General Member
- Posts: 1923
- Joined: Sun Jul 29, 2012 4:30 pm
- Location: Northern Territory + QLD
- Contact:
More Spamers ...
Set of Metrinch :
Handy that they fit a variety of metric & inch size nuts & bolts ...
Would'nt mind getting a full socket set also ...
Handy that they fit a variety of metric & inch size nuts & bolts ...
Would'nt mind getting a full socket set also ...
- steptoe
- Master Member
- Posts: 11582
- Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: 14 miles outside Gotham City
my stud remover by Stanley came in handy on Sunday to remove the one EA82T inlet manifold bolt that just felt like it had to be the one to piddle me off. Stanley helped me get my revenge - that's it in its mouth. Is driven by half inch sockets stuff for anyone that not know. A clean rescue of the thread in the head
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Those stud removers are great, unitl you twist and the stud breaks off at the thread into the block, which mine has done on a few accaisions, out with the drill:(
Here's a very handy tool to simplify a big job.
It bolts onto the gearbox (underneath) and its leg slips into a trolley jack, with the lifting plate removed.
Makes gearbox removal/install much easier, as long as you have a good surface for the trolley jack to roll on. This one has done many gearbox in/outs.
Here's a very handy tool to simplify a big job.
It bolts onto the gearbox (underneath) and its leg slips into a trolley jack, with the lifting plate removed.
Makes gearbox removal/install much easier, as long as you have a good surface for the trolley jack to roll on. This one has done many gearbox in/outs.
L serious, still.
Ok Jonno, hard to photo properly, but this shows the idea.
Left, Spring loaded centre pin and mini hole as cutting blades - Hard to use as centre pin is not strong enough to hold it steady.
Next, P&N spot weld drill bit - Great to use, works well
Next 3, home made verisions of the P&N , work very well, have done many welds and been re-sharpened a few times. Different sizes to allow for weld size variations/penetration/doubling.
Made with bench grinder to get almost, but not quite, flat end, with a 2mm tip in the centre. Then a 1.5mm thick angle grinder cutting blade to put cutting edges on the centre tip.
Much easier to drill through only one skin, re-assembly is quicker and easier than drilling all the way through with a normal drill bit.
Left, Spring loaded centre pin and mini hole as cutting blades - Hard to use as centre pin is not strong enough to hold it steady.
Next, P&N spot weld drill bit - Great to use, works well
Next 3, home made verisions of the P&N , work very well, have done many welds and been re-sharpened a few times. Different sizes to allow for weld size variations/penetration/doubling.
Made with bench grinder to get almost, but not quite, flat end, with a 2mm tip in the centre. Then a 1.5mm thick angle grinder cutting blade to put cutting edges on the centre tip.
Much easier to drill through only one skin, re-assembly is quicker and easier than drilling all the way through with a normal drill bit.
L serious, still.
- steptoe
- Master Member
- Posts: 11582
- Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: 14 miles outside Gotham City
http://www.autobody101.com/forums/viewt ... 5&start=10
just been reading up on things spot weld parting.My current application is the top sheeet is gonna be waste, the lower sheet the much wanted halo, so one of these zero angle drill bits will do job nicely and thought is not to go looking in hardware but autobody supply joints or sites Next job will be the reverse so maybe drill from underside .....
and a handy you tube on this guy making his own zero angle drill bits
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A3Cw58U0I4Q
just been reading up on things spot weld parting.My current application is the top sheeet is gonna be waste, the lower sheet the much wanted halo, so one of these zero angle drill bits will do job nicely and thought is not to go looking in hardware but autobody supply joints or sites Next job will be the reverse so maybe drill from underside .....
and a handy you tube on this guy making his own zero angle drill bits
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A3Cw58U0I4Q
I have an old school one of those that I got from my dad, They are the ducks guts for removing studs, inparticular EA81 head studs that are stuck.steptoe wrote:my stud remover by Stanley came in handy on Sunday to remove the one EA82T inlet manifold bolt that just felt like it had to be the one to piddle me off. Stanley helped me get my revenge - that's it in its mouth. Is driven by half inch sockets stuff for anyone that not know. A clean rescue of the thread in the head
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"THE BRUMBY ! , Your not taking the Brumby I just dry cleaned the mud flaps."
Current
00 Outback with class, SOHC EJ25 auto 240,068ks
"B1" 90 Brumby with character 271,800K EA81 (But soon 5speed,103,000k EJ202)
"B2" wrecked and crushed
"B3" 89 Bush Bashing Brumby (BeeRumBee) Kept a Bucca
"B4" 89 Black Brumby (wam balam ) Kept at Kempsey
"B5" 92 Brumby (sold it)
"B6" 88 Beige Brumby
"W1" 83 wagon 308,000 AC and alot of rust repairs. (Wanda)
Brumby Trailer (Sulky)
LUV THAT BRUM !
RevMax Hobbies
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Current
00 Outback with class, SOHC EJ25 auto 240,068ks
"B1" 90 Brumby with character 271,800K EA81 (But soon 5speed,103,000k EJ202)
"B2" wrecked and crushed
"B3" 89 Bush Bashing Brumby (BeeRumBee) Kept a Bucca
"B4" 89 Black Brumby (wam balam ) Kept at Kempsey
"B5" 92 Brumby (sold it)
"B6" 88 Beige Brumby
"W1" 83 wagon 308,000 AC and alot of rust repairs. (Wanda)
Brumby Trailer (Sulky)
LUV THAT BRUM !
RevMax Hobbies
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
I had a lot of trouble undoing the crank bolt i use a socket then i put a length of steel tube over the socket handle and rest the tube on the left rail on the top side.tambox wrote:Crank nut cracker
I take off the leads so it wont fire then kick over the engine for a second instantly undone works a treat
Jan
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] !!!Subies will go anywhere
Cranking is an easy way to undo it, unless at somewhere like a self pick wreckers, cranking not possible (well not easy to do).
EJ motors need the crank nut done up very tight, or the "chewed out keyway" virus starts, then $$$$$.
This was cheap to "buy", obviously hand made and it solves the do up problem.
EJ motors need the crank nut done up very tight, or the "chewed out keyway" virus starts, then $$$$$.
This was cheap to "buy", obviously hand made and it solves the do up problem.
L serious, still.
Just rounded off a 17mm nut on a trailing arm plus my 17mm socket. Looking at some replacements....
Also a 1/2" breaker bar, extra long
Breaker Bars | Toledo
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Owner SubieLiftOz, lift kits for Subarus
'97 Forester: EJ22E; 4" Custom Body Lift; JDM STi plated LSD; 20mm WRX RSB; Snorkel; Kings
Owner SubieLiftOz, lift kits for Subarus
'97 Forester: EJ22E; 4" Custom Body Lift; JDM STi plated LSD; 20mm WRX RSB; Snorkel; Kings
- El_Freddo
- Master Member
- Posts: 12511
- Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Bridgewater Vic
- Contact:
^ Nice one Tambox!!
I knocked up this little beauty tonight to help out in a very hard to get to place:
And this is what I've needed it for:
- Scrubbing rust before it got an acid treatment This brush will be cleaned and used to scrub the acid before it get's a sealing coat of red oxide paint.
Good times. Total cost ~$11. Made a difficult job easy!
Cheers
Bennie
I knocked up this little beauty tonight to help out in a very hard to get to place:
And this is what I've needed it for:
- Scrubbing rust before it got an acid treatment This brush will be cleaned and used to scrub the acid before it get's a sealing coat of red oxide paint.
Good times. Total cost ~$11. Made a difficult job easy!
Cheers
Bennie
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