Touring Wagon - Will not start

GunFactory · Post by **GunFactory** » Tue Feb 19, 2013 12:07 pm

I will try and get some pictures tonight, when the liquid came out it was more like seep, I noticed that it was a bit wet after going at it with carbie cleaner and it was definitely coming from the inside rather than overspray or dribbling from the top. Although from memory it wasn't right at the bottom of the carbie... Ill have to clarify though.

Yesterday I tried on four separate occasions to start the car with 'start you bastard' and had no luck. although I had no one else around to crank while i sprayed just gave it quick squirts then turned it over.

Thanks again to everyone for the input, this forum never ceases to amaze me.

I'll be back after further investigation!

Cheers,

Eli

GunFactory · Post by **GunFactory** » Tue Feb 19, 2013 8:36 pm

Hey,

So here are some before and after shots - spray this time was 'start you bastard' rather than carbie cleaner.

[ATTACH]3942[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]3943[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]3944[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]3945[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]3946[/ATTACH]

Looked like the liquid came from the protrusion with the red center to me, it got wet before the rest.

GunFactory · Post by **GunFactory** » Tue Feb 19, 2013 8:43 pm

More from the other side of the carbie

[ATTACH]3947[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]3948[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]3949[/ATTACH]

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Tue Feb 19, 2013 11:36 pm

Looks like the fluid is coming out of the throttle shaft, both main and secondary. May be time for a carby rebuild? I had mine fully rebuilt and tuned by a carby specialist and really wished I'd done it years before hand.

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Wed Feb 20, 2013 12:05 am

If your interested, il be selling my weber in maybe a few weeks. You should just be able to bolt it up and go. Your stock carby looks considerably better then mine did. No gutter bolts in site!

Regards

Doug

GunFactory · Post by **GunFactory** » Wed Feb 20, 2013 11:16 am

Subydoug wrote:If your interested, il be selling my weber in maybe a few weeks. You should just be able to bolt it up and go. Your stock carby looks considerably better then mine did. No gutter bolts in site!

Regards

Doug

Send me a PM with your asking price Doug, Is it a big improvement with the webber?

GunFactory · Post by **GunFactory** » Wed Feb 20, 2013 11:20 am

RSR 555 wrote:Looks like the fluid is coming out of the throttle shaft, both main and secondary. May be time for a carby rebuild? I had mine fully rebuilt and tuned by a carby specialist and really wished I'd done it years before hand.

Hmmm Think this could lead to a stalling problem haha, I feel like it happens most on Hot days also or when coming from highway speed to stop start traffic.

The car will be visiting the mechanic this arvo, I quickly exausted my own knowledge and patience - and I think the Battery!

When tried the spark test on the leads post distributor there was no spark. Then tried the coil lead again and no spark. (despite there being a spark a few hours earlier from the coil lead)

Car sounds laboured when turning over now, loss of charge or starter motor. Bahhhh...

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Wed Feb 20, 2013 11:58 am

I cannot really tell you because my old carby was completely shot. Drivability is very nice with the weber, and it holds AF ratios really well. I dont even use a choke anymore

. Wont have it off my car for a few weeks at the least. You can also have the manifold with it if you like.

No spark...hmmmm, you may have some dirty points or something along those lines. If you look into the distributor, there is a little contactor that looks a little bit like a relay. as the sharft rotates, the pads connect and disconnect. Those pads need to be clean and they need a dampening cap to stop arking (little cylinder thing on the outside of the distributor, connected to the wire going into the distributor). I cant remember how much they need to open from memory....something just under a mm I think. What you can do to save your poor old starter motor is get your coil lead, put it against some metal somewhere, then turn your ignition on and gently open and close the pads inside the distributor with a screwdriver. If it sparks when you do that, but not when you crank the car, then it needs adjusting. If no spark still its probably something dead.

Regards

Doug

GunFactory · Post by **GunFactory** » Wed Feb 20, 2013 1:24 pm

NRMA came, No point gap while cranking. Heading down to mechanic to get adjusted and ignition timing back in order.

Anyone ever known them to come undone? New points installed less than a week ago, could they be loose then come out?

Thanks again everyone.

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Wed Feb 20, 2013 2:27 pm

GunFactory wrote:Car sounds laboured when turning over now, loss of charge or starter motor. Bahhhh...

Probably low volts/amps left in the battery after all the cranking. Just give it a charge for a day and see how it holds up.

GunFactory wrote:NRMA came, No point gap while cranking. Heading down to mechanic to get adjusted and ignition timing back in order.

No gap on the points.. great.. glad problem is found.

GunFactory wrote:Anyone ever known them to come undone? New points installed less than a week ago, could they be loose then come out?

It's a possibility but highly unlikely. I would get the mechanic to check the wear/play in the dizzy shaft. I would suspect that due to age, the bushes have probably worn.

The other thing is the points need a small spot of lubricating grease. A dob of grease on the dizzy lobs will reduce the amount of wear on the points, in turn reduces the need for constant adjusting.

It may even be time to change to electronic dizzy

GunFactory · Post by **GunFactory** » Wed Feb 20, 2013 2:42 pm

All sorted, I now know how the hell the points work haha. Mechanic showed me how to test that there is a spark at the points as well as reseting the timing.

Found out that there is an Identical red wagon (manual) getting around Wollongong, the girl who owns it has been seeing the same mechanic, he said he would let me know if she was looking to sell - straighter body than mine, but Engine has a few issues. Want that bonnet!

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Wed Feb 20, 2013 6:19 pm

Can points come loose? I would believe it on my old dizzy; the two phillips head screws that hold the points down were nicely rounded out with barely enough left to tighten them down. Even then I never had a problem though.

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Wed Feb 20, 2013 8:00 pm

Great to hear you got it sorted.

GunFactory · Post by **GunFactory** » Wed Feb 20, 2013 8:04 pm

Silverbullet wrote:Can points come loose? I would believe it on my old dizzy; the two phillips head screws that hold the points down were nicely rounded out with barely enough left to tighten them down. Even then I never had a problem though.

Yeah mechanic seemed doubtful, said he had only seen it a handfull of times, Car ran beautifully after they went in.. for about 400km then.. haha.

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Thu Feb 21, 2013 12:12 am

Did he check the shaft play?

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Thu Feb 21, 2013 7:07 am

Glad someone listened to me back at post #10

Did mechanic tell you that Kettering got his name on this sort of ignition system ? If you set the timing and points gap to spec, and somehow, wear or loose screw the points gap decreases your timing goes out retards, gets closer to TDC, performance can be a bit lacking just before she won't start on you again . Post #10 eh?

GunFactory · Post by **GunFactory** » Thu Feb 21, 2013 7:29 am

steptoe wrote: Glad someone listened to me back at post #10
Did mechanic tell you that Kettering got his name on this sort of ignition system ? If you set the timing and points gap to spec, and somehow, wear or loose screw the points gap decreases your timing goes out retards, gets closer to TDC, performance can be a bit lacking just before she won't start on you again . Post #10 eh?

On the money Steptoe!

Appologies, I really had no idea what the points were and how they worked prior to this..

Thanks!

Battlewagon · Post by **Battlewagon** » Thu Feb 21, 2013 11:00 am

I always pulled the standard phillips screws out and flung them, in favour of allen screws.
Much less likely to drop into the guts of the dissy, and easier to tighten/undo.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Thu Feb 21, 2013 8:51 pm

I've not had points issues since owning my L series! My old '78 CRYSLER Lancer had points and I'd usually snap the spring steel on the points before they were due for replacement

Not fun being stuck without spark! I always had an old set in the glovebox just in case

Sounds like it's time for an electronic dizzy - and from another post I've read previously tonight there's apparently one going cheap after the forum member purchased it from fleabay only to find he already had an electronic dizzy!

Cheers

Bennie

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Fri Feb 22, 2013 10:49 am

Battlewagon wrote:I always pulled the standard phillips screws out and flung them, in favour of allen screws.
Much less likely to drop into the guts of the dissy, and easier to tighten/undo.

That's a brilliant idea

The AUSubaru.com.au Forums

Touring Wagon - Will not start

Pics