Considering engine swap in the Brum

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Sun Feb 24, 2013 9:31 pm

Sorry Sam, I wasn't doubting you. Just make sure it is totally clean before putting back together.

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Mon Feb 25, 2013 4:28 pm

Hehe don't sweat it, your words of wisdom are always appreciated

Pretty much decided on my plan of action today on the drive home. No point in uhm-ing and arr-ing for the rest of eternity. I'll be putting my other engine in and I'll start ordering parts to fix the Brum this week things like carbie kit, g/box mounts, front drive shafts etc. Meanwhile I'll probably tear down my old worn out gearbox for it's input shaft as a handy clutch aligning tool. That will make the engine install alot quicker because I spend half the time trying to get the clutch aligned.

What has been decided as the best drive shafts for these? Not ebay ones obviously, I think I remember someone talking about Repco ones being pretty good?

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Mon Feb 25, 2013 6:18 pm

Save the time for tearing the box down to get the input shaft out, I got mine with an angel grinder in no time flat

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Tue Feb 26, 2013 6:33 pm

steptoe wrote:Save the time for tearing the box down to get the input shaft out, I got mine with an angel grinder in no time flat

Or if you've got enough grunt you can pull the bloody thing out, there's a thin metal plate that gives the resistance. By doing it this way you'll have plenty of meat to hold on to

Cheers

Bennie

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Tue Feb 26, 2013 7:00 pm

I haven't looked properly but I assumed you couldn't get the cutting wheel down very far because of the bell housing and things getting in the way...and Bennie do you mean tie the tailshaft end to a tree and the input shaft to the tow bar of the Brumby? That sounds fun

G/box mounts are on their way...no suggestions on which CV axles to buy?

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Tue Feb 26, 2013 8:12 pm

Silverbullet wrote: do you mean tie the tailshaft end to a tree and the input shaft to the tow bar of the Brumby?

Nah, you should be able to remove the bolts holding it in then free it up enough to get a pinch/jimmy bar in there to do the rest of the work for you

Cheers

Bennie

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Wed Feb 27, 2013 7:10 am

Bolts holding what ? in there ? The input shafts are held in by a bearing and stuff and it is the last to come out of the box on a dismantle which makes replacing the front seal quite a job - the first step in my book is buy an L Series for all its bits and follow Jules's advice on the rest

Someone here managed to get input shaft out first somehow but broke the bearing in the process

Use a more worn down cutting disc to get a better angle on it Sam

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Wed Feb 27, 2013 7:19 pm

steptoe wrote:Bolts holding what ? in there ? The input shafts are held in by a bearing

And the bearing is in a housing that is held in by three bolts (from memory).

Lever this housing out and you've got the perfect full length clutch alignment tool.

Cheers

Bennie

tambox · Post by **tambox** » Wed Feb 27, 2013 7:48 pm

If you loosen all the front casing bolts, by a couple of turns, you can drive a screwdriver between the casings at the bellhousing. Take out the three i/p bearing bolts first.
Then the i/p shaft just about falls out.

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Sat Mar 23, 2013 1:04 pm

Now I've got the carbie done I'm looking at the emissions system on the Brum to see what I have to do. Had a good look at the ECS canister lines and what they do and I think I have it sussed (crude drawing below

) Fuel vapor comes from the fuel tank and the carbie into the canister. When the engine is running there is vacuum going to the canister which opens a valve, letting all the vapor directly into the inlet manifold to be burnt. There is also some funky stuff going on with the fuel filter which I don't understand;

There is fuel in line from the tank/pump and the out line to the carb. But there is also a small hose running from the top of the filter (no liquid, so I assume vapor) which runs alongside the fuel line to the carbie and joins it right before it goes into the carbie. Also, at the filter end there is another hose coming off of it which goes into the middle of the firewall

I think I'll just replace my rebuilt carbies fuel line with this T piece type connector and leave it as is.

Next thing is the vapor line from the carbie to the canister. My rebuild carbie doesn't have this either so can I just blank off that hose on the canister? Then it will still be getting vapor from the tank. Then my other engine there is 1 spare vacuum port for the vapor to possibly go into but it is on one side of the manifold not in the middle like on the Brum, will this matter? I guess it means all vapor would be burnt on one side of the engine only.

That's all the problems I think I might encounter using the ECS canister on a non-ECS canister engine. Removing it all together believe it or not would be alot more problematic.

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Thu Mar 28, 2013 7:15 pm

Alrighty, everything is sorted and the engine swap is this weekend...tomorrow to be exact. I've got all the gaskets, oil, filter and coolant and the borrowed engine hoist sitting in the drive. The project car has been pushed forward into the garden so the Brum is on the flat and level. I'm going to go with my idea on the ECS canister of only having the fuel tank vapor going to it since the carbie doesn't have an outlet for it. And then just swap the fuel line connector from the Brum carbie onto the new one (it has that weird thin line going to the top of the fuel filter) And because the other engine is points I'm swapping the coil out. While I'm at it I'll also put my new gearbox mounts in and I've got all new exhaust gaskets to stop that pesky leak.

What else...oh yeah I'm putting the radiator from the old wagon in as well because the Brumby one looks pretty bad, and it gets too hot for my liking even on a mild day. So up early tomorrow and I'll be under the hood with the radio on hopefully done in time to go to a good Friday barbie later in the day...maybe

I'll spend the whole day being extra careful to avoid any easter weekend mishaps like 2 years ago which left me taking a bus to work for a few days

Rodeo4jake · Post by **Rodeo4jake** » Thu Mar 28, 2013 9:43 pm

Good luck with it all, sounds like you've got all bases covered.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Fri Mar 29, 2013 7:05 am

That was two years ago ?? Time flies !! Been telling self I need to do my mongrel EA82 into my Brumby this long weekend ...not so sure now we are so close and into it. I might just finish it off so it looks more like a complete runner first - like bolt the inlet man on, install dizzy in correct position, check exhaust studs and threads are good ..... so no race for us Sam !

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Fri Mar 29, 2013 6:00 pm

Well I've just come in for my first break since 10:30 AM...got a lot done and oh boy did I find some things that shouldn't be

Let's just say I think I totally made the right decision in swapping the whole engine out instead of chasing individual issues on the gutless slow poke. Overall it looks like a very sad tired engine in need of retirement or rebuild (not by me!) The clutch was in an interesting state (had to bash it with a big hammer to get the pressure plate out of the flywheel) followed by a BIG pile of black dust, and black dust caked all around inside the flywheel. Clutch disk was nearly gone so lucky I had a near new one in the shed. One of the engine mounts wasn't even bolted onto the engine and both gearbox mounts are shot to pieces...maybe part of my vibration issue?

there's also the state of the PCV/breather hoses and also the carbie, I could go on but that's enough lol.

Certainly not as quick as I was hoping because of lots of little unforseen problems, but right now I've got the other engine bolted up and new gearbox mounts in. The input shaft I hacked off the old gearbox with an angle grinder is worth it's weight in gold...seriously the engine just popped in first try with next to no persuasion. Next will be the inlet/carb and then exhaust, then sorting out the one wiring difference and the ECS canister.

All going well I should have it fired up tomorrow some time

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Fri Mar 29, 2013 8:14 pm

Which engine did you swap in Sam?
What are you doing with the old engine?

Cheers Cam

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Fri Mar 29, 2013 8:46 pm

The engine out of the wagon, not the twin port. It's a much better engine since it would have beaten the Brumby when still in the 1300kg car! Should go well in the 900kg ute.

As for what to do with it, not sure. It will probably hang around for a while before I decide to either throw it away or take it apart and store it.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Fri Mar 29, 2013 8:57 pm

Sam, got a hair net for vistors and friends ? Germ mask too ?

1300kg ? Not the Silverbullet surely ?
JF2AM5 4sp 4WD dr wagon 1010 kg ,the auto just 40kg more

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Sat Mar 30, 2013 2:44 pm

Oh really? I must have my gross and tare weights mixed up again...well it will still go 100% better than the old engine

And there weren't any visitors, just me and I made damn sure there was no rags anywhere to be seen when bolting up the carbie this time lol

According to the dash clock I disconnected the battery at 10:15 AM yesterday, and just re-connected it at about 2:30 PM with absolutely everything connected up

Full of oil and coolant, all the emissions lines sorted although I'm a bit worried I've got too many things running of the same 4mm vacuum line.

Question time! Now I've swapped back to points I have no idea how the coil and ballast resistor get wired up, I took a best guess and there is no spark. So there are 4 thin wires coming out of the wiring loom, do these go 2 on the negative side and 2 on the positive? Which two? And what about the ballast resistor? Is one end connected to the negative and one end to the positive? That would mean 3 wires each on positive and negative. The wires coming out of the loom are:
Black
Black with white stripe and brown spots
Yellow with brown spots
Black with red stripe.

Then there's one wire going from the resistor to the positive terminal which was still on the coil from last time. And of course the yellow and black wires that were from the electronic dizzy no longer exist.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Mar 30, 2013 3:01 pm

aw POO NO! the power positive goes through the resistor to reduce its voltage on the other side for the coil !

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Mar 30, 2013 3:11 pm

Sam, before connecting these wires maybe test them to see what is in them, see if they change from one thing to another between IGN OFF, ACC, ON etc