Doug's EA81 Rebuild stuff.

Post by **TOONGA** » Wed Feb 27, 2013 7:03 pm

Sorry about the silicone Doug, I ajusted the tappets just befere I decided to go to an EJ motor and with that in mind, I wasn't going to spend any more money on gaskets.

TOONGA

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Wed Feb 27, 2013 9:28 pm

555Ron wrote:they are a different breed of engine, the gudgeon pins are a different size so to the best of my knowledge it hasn't been done. Gregory's states max oversize bore is 0.5mm but I stripped one that had done a lot of work with 1mm oversize bores.

You can run ea71 pistons for a higher compression. Ram performance engines make pistons and other goodies for the ea81. Some say the ea82 spfi will give higher compression but my engine builder looked into it and disagreed but I can't quite work it out. Perhaps the aftermarket piston manufacturers do not include a different design for spfi vs carb where as Subaru did. Not sure, just a theory.

I'm guessing someone has piped in and suggested a weber upgrade by now? Worth looking into if you want some more power from your engine. If you search ea81 rebuild you will find my thread which has a link to Idasho's thread over at USB with lots of good pictures of his ea81 rebuild.

Knew I shouldnt have asked that question

.

EJ piston gudgeon pins are bigger. Distance from gudgeon to crown is the same. Even If I were to go to ej22 or ej25 pistons the capasity of the engine only goes up to a 2lt (~1985cc with 22 and ~2050 with 22) Not worth it as It would struggle to breath. Would deffinately need to get it re-nickel plated after boring it out that much.

Going to shave the heads to increase the CR. Not going overboard, should end up around 9.5-1.

Already running a weber, upgraded exhaust and even a supercharger at the moment. current motor is a bit tired at 365k so its time for a freshie

.

Toonga, pretty sure Paul got you off the hook, not your motor

.

Not much progress tonight, pulled the valves out and started cleaning up the heads. There's a shite ton of carbon in this motor. Probably buring oil, though the valve stem seals looked pretty good. Gotta get them pistons out.

Valve seats look good.

Havent even looked at the valves yet, mating surface was pretty thin , but it did go all the way around.

My valve sorting system. Sometime, being a single valve engine has its benifits

.

Will finish cleaning the other head after Ive had some chow.

Regards

Doug

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Wed Feb 27, 2013 10:09 pm

Looks like a good old Aussie made Fischer box.

While you got bits apart, feel free to use my fool proof label method using coloured zip ties

red on one, two blue, three green, four gets yellow

the memory game is one and red 3 letters, two and blue rhyme, three and green both got double e, word yellow has most number of letters so goes on 4

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Wed Feb 27, 2013 10:24 pm

steptoe wrote:Looks like a good old Aussie made Fischer box.

While you got bits apart, feel free to use my fool proof label method using coloured zip ties

red on one, two blue, three green, four gets yellow

the memory game is one and red 3 letters, two and blue rhyme, three and green both got double e, word yellow has most number of letters so goes on 4

Thats a pretty good way of doing it. Mine is from left to right, 1-2-3-4.
Top row is intake, bottom is exhaust. Also double as little degreaser compartments. If I cannot remember that when I go to reassemble it, il just look here

.

Regards

Doug

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Wed Feb 27, 2013 11:22 pm

Just a few more quick photos.

This is how I clean valves quickly.

Has pretty good results with just steel wool. Deffinately going to hit these with some fine sandpaper.

Now the interesting one

This is an intake valve seat. See where the sealing was happening? well thats on the edge of a large ridge. All the rest of the seat on the intake side is about a mm thinner. Looking at the head I havent cleaned yet that area was filled up with carbon. Hmmm, choices, choices, choices.....do I pull out the seats and put new ones in, or do I just cut these ones down? What do you guys think. Both options are easily doable.....Im thinking just cut these ones. Will have to cut them anyway to restore the valve geometry after decking the heads....but are these worn too much.

Thats enough for tonight, time for some beauty rest.

Regards

Doug

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Thu Feb 28, 2013 7:53 am

guides too then ? Is it K line time ?

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Thu Feb 28, 2013 8:49 am

Unsure Steptoe, havent looked at the guides. Will do tonight when everything is clean.

Regards

Doug

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Fri Mar 01, 2013 12:32 am

Well Steptoe, deffinately feel a little bit of wear in the guides. Will have to turn up some new ones. New valves and seats I think. Makes it real easy to put a good radius valve cut in the heads though

. Might pick up some new valves and springs too, just for the hell of it. None of the old valves are bent.

I also for the first time noticed that the heads are identical

. Right down to the numbers on the casts and the accessories mounting points. Paul, Both these heads have the three bolts for the power steering support. Is this normal? I cannot remember from my old motor....

Both cleaned on the inside for a good look. Will do the outside and rocker side with a bigger compressor.

These valve seats really confuse me though. Its almost like they were cut this way. I cannot for the life of me see how they would wear like this. I also think these valves stand a bit proud out of the ports. What do you guys think?

Still didnt split the case yet. Im a bit fussy when it comes to engine parts around the joint. I like to inspect and clean and organise what Ive already pulled off first before making more

.

Wont post up any more till I have the case halves apart.

Regards

Doug

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Sat Mar 02, 2013 12:50 am

Well, I know I said I wouldnt post any more till I split the block.....I guess I lied

.

Finished cleaning the little pieces like the pushrods, rocker covers, rockers, valves. Removed and cleaned the head studs. Also removed the bell housing, oil pump (oil pump has a cracked part on it), water pump and the oil filler.

Tried your dynabolt trick Paul, worked but I need a bigger bolt. I trashed this one doing it up. Still, got one piston out on worries. Rings look pretty ordinary. deffinately got some miles on the clock.

Will measure the bore tomorrow. See how out of round it is.
Crank big end doesnt "feel" bad but holding judgment untill I get a bo peep at the bearings.

All bagged and tagged, ready for the trip to the shop.

Had enough for tonight though. I didnt have a 14mm hex drive, so Il grab one in the morning form somewhere to do the front pistons. Also grab some more dynabolts, may grab a few sizes, do some testing, find out what works the best. Then its off to the workshop to deck the heads, make some new valve guides and seats and put them in the heads, recut the valves and maybe some other miscellaneous stuff involving things like this,

Regards

Doug

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Mar 02, 2013 8:00 am

cold start injector for a choke ?

Post by **TOONGA** » Sat Mar 02, 2013 9:26 am

ah injector madness, will be interesting to see where you go with this

TOONGA

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Sat Mar 02, 2013 10:34 am

Subydoug wrote:This is an intake valve seat. See where the sealing was happening? well thats on the edge of a large ridge. All the rest of the seat on the intake side is about a mm thinner. Looking at the head I havent cleaned yet that area was filled up with carbon. Hmmm, choices, choices, choices.....do I pull out the seats and put new ones in, or do I just cut these ones down? What do you guys think. Both options are easily doable.....Im thinking just cut these ones. Will have to cut them anyway to restore the valve geometry after decking the heads....but are these worn too much.

The valve seat and valves will have 2 cut angles as standard. I wouldn't replace the seats, just lap the valves, then if they don't look good, then I'd have them grinded.

Subydoug wrote:Well Steptoe, deffinately feel a little bit of wear in the guides. Will have to turn up some new ones. New valves and seats I think. Makes it real easy to put a good radius valve cut in the heads though . Might pick up some new valves and springs too, just for the hell of it. None of the old valves are bent.

I wouldn't think you'd need new valves but the valve guides may need to be K-Lined (this really depends on the movement). Some new springs would only help if you're planning on going forced induction, otherwise the standard are fine.

Subydoug wrote:I also for the first time noticed that the heads are identical . Right down to the numbers on the casts and the accessories mounting points. Paul, Both these heads have the three bolts for the power steering support. Is this normal? I cannot remember from my old motor

Yeah Doug, another good thing Subaru do with their engines. Both are identical

Subydoug wrote:These valve seats really confuse me though. Its almost like they were cut this way. I cannot for the life of me see how they would wear like this. I also think these valves stand a bit proud out of the ports. What do you guys think?

They look correct to me

Subydoug wrote:Tried your dynabolt trick Paul, worked but I need a bigger bolt. I trashed this one doing it up. Still, got one piston out on worries. Rings look pretty ordinary. deffinately got some miles on the clock.

No worries.. I'd go through a couple of bolts every couple of engines.

Looks like you've been bitten by the EA81 bug.. just can't help yourself to work on it.. it's like a drug

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Sat Mar 02, 2013 10:35 am

Yeah, my ea81 is probably going to be efi Steptoe. More on that later.

Regards

Doug

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Sat Mar 02, 2013 10:52 am

RSR 555 wrote:The valve seat and valves will have 2 cut angles as standard. I wouldn't replace the seats, just lap the valves, then if they don't look good, then I'd have them grinded.

I wouldn't think you'd need new valves but the valve guides may need to be K-Lined (this really depends on the movement). Some new springs would only help if you're planning on going forced induction, otherwise the standard are fine.

Yeah Doug, another good thing Subaru do with their engines. Both are identical

They look correct to me

No worries.. I'd go through a couple of bolts every couple of engines.

Looks like you've been bitten by the EA81 bug.. just can't help yourself to work on it.. it's like a drug

There's no way a lapping is going to fix this. Hopefully this picture illustrates the problem better. My other heads didnt have this.

Valve guides passed the pop test with flying colors, I think they would be ok. I wouldnt k-line them, just cut some whole new ones and press them in, but Id only do that if Im also doing the valve seats, which Im probably going to

.

Id go new valves and springs just because I can

. Then she'd be good for another 300k.

Yeah, ea81 bug has always got me. They are simple, small, light and rugged. Perfect engine for someone who just wants to finish work, sit down in the shed and have a tinker

.

Regards

Doug

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Sat Mar 02, 2013 11:12 am

They look like they have been cut/machined by a shop. I would use them, as long as after you lap them, the face of the valve looks correct and not half/half.. if you know what I mean?

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Mar 02, 2013 11:21 am

Subydoug wrote:
Yeah, ea81 bug has always got me. They are simple, small, light and rugged. Perfect engine for someone who just wants to finish work, sit down in the shed and have a tinker .

Regards

Doug

My thoughts exactly and why, one day, would love to whack an EA82T exhaust & "accessories" on one with my twin carb manifold, and in doing so feed my oil pressure switch off take from the pump up to nearer the 'accessory', mod a rocker cover to take an oil drain tube, extra cooling hoses ......LPG of course

Post by **TOONGA** » Sat Mar 02, 2013 7:48 pm

I just went and looked at the turbo EA81 heads I have in the garage

YOUR HEADS ABOVE RSR'S BELOW

notice anything?

I will give you a hint you can use your existing cam.

TOONGA

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Sat Mar 02, 2013 9:05 pm

Oh really??? They didnt use the better heads??? Thats crazy! What were they thinking?? That'd need a good custom port job to be any good I think.

Tell you what, Il finish this motor off, Then When I pull the old motor, I can stick those on it with a nice sized turbo, and Paul can stick it in his Hatch

. (hint Hint Paul

).

In other news, got about 90kms out of Perth today when....

(Ea81 sounds mean without exhaust

)

kept on driving praying no to see a man of the law. Made it the next 110kms incident free, pulled off the headers, fired up the cobra oxy and shabam!

Good for now, but these headers are pretty crap so I might get some new ones made up some time next week.

Highly recommend the Henrob 2000 oxy hand piece. Welds absolutely beautifully.

Anyhow, back to motors I suppose.....

Regards

Doug

Post by **TOONGA** » Sat Mar 02, 2013 9:21 pm

Doug get a complete 2 inch system made, you won't regret it at all.

I did some research on the Henrob 2000 nice little torch when I win lotto I will add that to the list of toys Im buying.

TOONGA

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Sat Mar 02, 2013 9:51 pm

Current pipe is already around 1 3/4". Gotta be carefull going too big. 2" seems to be the general consensus (or scrap it all and make up a turbo manifold

).

Yeah, the henrob is pretty expensive, but Ive used a few different types of oxy's and the cobra is hands down the best one. Can weld aluminium as well, cuts steel plate. But you absolutely HAVE to have the gas pressures right. If theyre not right you might as well use some crappy piece.

Regards

Doug