Engine stalls when clutch pressed in
Engine stalls when clutch pressed in
Hey guys,
Any ideas on this one? When I am cruising along and come to a stop sign, give way sign etc, I press the clutch in and the car stalls. Before I left home it was idling fine but after driving for about 30mins it wouldn't even idle. I had to pulse the accelerator to keep it alive.
I'll check my timing when I get home to make sure it hasn't changed, but just wondered if any one had any initial thoughts?
Cheers,
James
Any ideas on this one? When I am cruising along and come to a stop sign, give way sign etc, I press the clutch in and the car stalls. Before I left home it was idling fine but after driving for about 30mins it wouldn't even idle. I had to pulse the accelerator to keep it alive.
I'll check my timing when I get home to make sure it hasn't changed, but just wondered if any one had any initial thoughts?
Cheers,
James
- RSR 555
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Sounds like it could be timing.. the good thing (and there really isn't many times I say that about the EA82) is that you can remove the L&R outer covers and with the engine on the middle of those 3 little flywheel marks, you should be able to see the Camshaft Timing Marks at 6 & 12 o'clock
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- RSR 555
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Sorry hit enter too soon...
If the timing marks are out, then it could be the adjusters weren't tight enough. Just think as you've had the front stuff off recently
If the timing marks are out, then it could be the adjusters weren't tight enough. Just think as you've had the front stuff off recently
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- RSR 555
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I was thinking belt tension, as from memory they required retensioning... after been 'run in' as to speak.
Must be sure not to tighten the bolts too much, as Jonno said, cause them to strip.
Must be sure not to tighten the bolts too much, as Jonno said, cause them to strip.
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Okay more help needed. Re tightened the belt. All good until I realised it had slipped a few teeth and the alignment of the cams was out.
So I removed the belt again to re position cam to the right orientation...but...I can't spin the cam around. I'm afraid if I put too much pressure on the little bolts on the cam pully to spin it I will snap them off. Help!
So I removed the belt again to re position cam to the right orientation...but...I can't spin the cam around. I'm afraid if I put too much pressure on the little bolts on the cam pully to spin it I will snap them off. Help!
- RSR 555
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Sorry James, had to sleep at some time 
Ok, so the belts are correct (and now retensioned), I'd look at ignition timing and also for any hoses that might be off, mainly looking for ones around the inlet manifold.
Is the car idling lower than normal?

Ok, so the belts are correct (and now retensioned), I'd look at ignition timing and also for any hoses that might be off, mainly looking for ones around the inlet manifold.
Is the car idling lower than normal?
You know you are getting old when the candles on your birthday cake start to cost more than the cake itself.
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- steptoe
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This is your engine just rebuilt and running sweet ain't it ? New belts are to be set tighter than than older reused belts. Sometimes have heard new belts that I thought must be close to overtight have this new noise never heard before - never seen 'em fail though.
Factory and gregories have a belt tension spec that most do not have measure tol or bother with. I have mostly felt that the spring of the tensioner gets a nice tension on the belt and no more is needed other than a little help from hand , once those tensioner bolts are tight - the spring does no tensioning - just waits there for a retension 40,000km later when you can't get at both tensioners other than through those plug holes in the covers - so need to rely on feel and those springs doing their job.
Must be a carby setting like throttle cable lock nuts left loose from previous overtension setting ?
Factory and gregories have a belt tension spec that most do not have measure tol or bother with. I have mostly felt that the spring of the tensioner gets a nice tension on the belt and no more is needed other than a little help from hand , once those tensioner bolts are tight - the spring does no tensioning - just waits there for a retension 40,000km later when you can't get at both tensioners other than through those plug holes in the covers - so need to rely on feel and those springs doing their job.
Must be a carby setting like throttle cable lock nuts left loose from previous overtension setting ?
So all the hoses are connected.
It would have to be either fuel or spark causing this problem right? I am leaning more towards fuel as the engine runs fine when you rev it up. Perhaps float level or something like that? Weird thing is the carby came straight off the old engine onto the new one. Nothing fiddled with except the idle screw.
Sorry guys, i'm thinking out loud more than anything.
It would have to be either fuel or spark causing this problem right? I am leaning more towards fuel as the engine runs fine when you rev it up. Perhaps float level or something like that? Weird thing is the carby came straight off the old engine onto the new one. Nothing fiddled with except the idle screw.
Sorry guys, i'm thinking out loud more than anything.
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Did the carby stay upright whilst it was off the engine?
I found that they are very temperamental if they fall over or get turned upside down.
I found that they are very temperamental if they fall over or get turned upside down.
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- RSR 555
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It could mean that the float level is stuck and/or the ball in the accelerator pump has dislodged, stopping fuel getting pumped in.jims wrote:It was turned upside down, yeah. While I was cleaning it up. What could this mean?
Have you got another carby to try?
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