EA81 Brumby-no oil to rocker

Skull · Post by **Skull** » Tue Apr 16, 2013 9:09 pm

Subydoug wrote:You should be able to remove the rocker assembly with the engine in the car. Pulling the bolts all the way thru the chassis into the wheel well allows the assembly to be lifted out. Then to get the pushrods out I did pretty much the same thing, thru the chassis.
Hope she works for ya .

Doug

I thought it a little unusual, I just went out & had a look, although I did look today & couldn't see any access so I didn't worry about it to much.

IM AN IDIOT:oops:, there are 2 rubber plugs in the wheel arch that just pop out, they have been painted white, that's why they are hard to spot.

I am going to do the other side this week, thanks for the info, should save me about 2 hours work.

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Tue Apr 16, 2013 9:28 pm

haha, yeah the rubber bungs

. If your going to do the HG's, Id also recommend getting the heads beadblasted, relapping the valves, new stem seals and maybe freeze plugs. It will be good for another 360k then

. If you do bead blast the heads do inside the ports as well. Cleans them up a treat and is the easiest way to remove carbon buildup.

Doesnt really matter if you dont do all that stuff, it just gives you some good satisfaction and its all relatively easy. All in a days work

.

Oh, and a tip for pulling out the pushrods. Before pulling them out of the block, rattle them side to side. They will come free of the lifter (you will know when they do) and you can remove them safely. Not that big of a deal as you cant physically pull the lifters into the sump. Id also recommend not adjusting your tappets untill its all bolted back up and youve started it up. That will settle everything back into order (again, peace of mind).

Regards

Doug

Regards

Doug

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Tue Apr 16, 2013 9:45 pm

Gary is a great source of detailed info and well explained - as usual, jogs my memory

So those holes are useful for something. Gosh, two things, maple syrup is about same runny as 10W40 engine oil - must be an old batch you have tasted

, the honey was thick enough to prevent oil passage through push rods ? Wonder if things improved at op temps ?

This donk sounds like a contender for Diesel spec engine oil for its extra detergent additive package . Some swear by Caterpillar oils for EA82 HVLA's, maybe just any good Diesel oil at 10W40, 20W50 , 15W40 ?

Skull · Post by **Skull** » Tue Apr 16, 2013 10:03 pm

Subydoug wrote: If your going to do the HG's, Id also recommend getting the heads beadblasted, relapping the valves, new stem seals and maybe freeze plugs. It will be good for another 360k then . If you do bead blast the heads do inside the ports as well. Cleans them up a treat and is the easiest way to remove carbon buildup.

Doug

Thanks Doug, that goes without saying, if the heads have to come off I cant see the point of reinstalling without a decent overhaul. The engine is getting a little tired.

Skull · Post by **Skull** » Tue Apr 16, 2013 10:14 pm

steptoe wrote:
So those holes are useful for something. Gosh, two things, maple syrup is about same runny as 10W40 engine oil - must be an old batch you have tasted , the honey was thick enough to prevent oil passage through push rods ? Wonder if things improved at op temps ?

This donk sounds like a contender for Diesel spec engine oil for its extra detergent additive package . Some swear by Caterpillar oils for EA82 HVLA's, maybe just any good Diesel oil at 10W40, 20W50 , 15W40 ?

Haha, yes the "maple syrup" oil was that thick, may have been a 1992 vintage maple syrup:)

Very good point regarding your oil selection, which brings up another point. When I replaced all the O rings & seals in the oil pump I did measure up all the tolerances & everything seemed good.
Although the oil light goes out immediately when it starts, I am just curious about how much oil pressure there really is. I will check that.
Any oil pump worth half a crumpet should be able to pump a jar of molasses easily:)

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Wed Apr 17, 2013 7:35 am

From memory those idiot lights trigger at about 6 psi so you could have 8 psi and light goes out !So, remove all belts, fans and carefully place finger over oil pressure switch hole ???

Skull · Post by **Skull** » Wed Apr 17, 2013 12:51 pm

steptoe wrote: So those holes are useful for something. Gosh, two things, maple syrup is about same runny as 10W40 engine oil - must be an old batch you have tasted , the honey was thick enough to prevent oil passage through push rods ? Wonder if things improved at op temps ?

Operating temperature??? that's a joke!!
Some NOODLE decided the car might go faster without the burden of carrying around the extra weight of a thermostat. Without thermostat it rarely reaches its correct operating temp. Got a replacement which I will fit tomorrow.

I am starting to think I have bought a lemon (sorry Steptoe, I mentioned foodstuff again, must have been something I ate:-D)

Borrowed a pressure gauge to check the oil pressure, thanks for the advice, but fingers are very useful for many things (communicating etc?), but not for this job. I have enough oil sprayed around the garage as it is:-D.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Wed Apr 17, 2013 3:14 pm

well, sometimes running without a thermostat is a first stage of checking to see if motor suffered any detriment after an overheat possibly caused by stuck thermostat. Mate did it to a Magna just yesterday. Had radiator replaced in the heat of the summer, copped a burst water hose near the throttle body, recently, brown stuff never cleaned up after then customer comes to him complain of overheat and steam. Cap looked newish but worn underside seal, original 244,000km bottom hose pumpng up like a lizards guts and thermostat hardly opened, and I noticed the overflow bottle was full of nice green fluid, rest of car spewed brown - overflow hose full of crud so never made use of overflow and feed back when cool.
Customer told to try it out, see how things go and come back for new thermostat if all OK.
The last mechanic on your beast may have got to same stage - then you bought it

Skull · Post by **Skull** » Wed Apr 17, 2013 8:19 pm

That scenario sounds feasible, I am well aware the radiator is just about had it. Cracked around the seams on the tanks, looks like being left out in the frost without antifreeze. Starting & running when the radiator is a block of ice is a recipe for overheating/blown hose etc. tell tale signs being both tanks appear to be bulged out slightly.

Needless to say radiator is being replaced, too far gone for a simple repair job.

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Wed Apr 17, 2013 8:49 pm

With the bulgy radiator and weird goopy oil concoction, it looks like you may have bought a half assed bodge up and sell job

Running without a thermostat is complete madness to me, they must have been trying to test something. Have you started it up since cleaning out the pushrods?

Speaking of brown stuff, when I was doing the engine swap in my ute recently I went to pull that little hose out from the bottom of the carbie; undid the hose clamp and it was completely fused on...out with the stanley knife and slice it up, heaving on this little hose it finally breaks free and swings around at the perfect angle to spray a big stream of brown muck straight in my face

I guess that was that engines last kicks of revenge for pulling out out.

Skull · Post by **Skull** » Wed Apr 17, 2013 10:40 pm

Unfortunately you may be right. I wasn't expecting it to be in perfect condition, lets face it, it is 20 years old. But everything to do with the engine & gear box seems to be bodgied up somewhere. The good point is the body, apart from the usual small dents, is fairly straight & rust free apart from a small patch near rear wheel arch. Underneath is really good, just a few rock dents. It has got a lot of new stuff on it so it does appear somebody was making an attempt to maintain it. Interior is above average from what I have seen, very original, & it does drive well, just have to pull up every 30 minutes to top up the oil & water!!

No I haven't started it yet, spent all day chasing up my $300 Snap-on torque wrench my mate borrowed 2 years ago, to tighten rocker mounting bolts, so looks like tomorrow.

As for the thermostat I totally agree, if it was removed to diagnose a problem, why was it left out. The carby relies on a heat sensor, I believe, that operates the automatic choke. With thermostat out, driving in cool weather causes the choke to close, uses heaps of juice & is revving its guts out when idling.

Sorry to hear you were slimed by some brown muck:rolleyes: not a pleasant experience I know.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Thu Apr 18, 2013 7:00 am

Many of us appreciate a good body (in more ways than one

) and know it is easier to replace/repair driveline stuff.One of my Brumbys had a little rust in a wheel arch, some in the bottom of the tail gate when I got it nearly fifteen years ago and it's still got it, just a little more. It was on gearbox and eng #2 when I got it, eng #3 did 180,000 hard km before eng#4 came along. Gearbox #3 is doin' fine as a 5 speed. The only body bits replaced in that time is window winders and door handles.

These little EA81's are tough - sort its oiling problem, don't let it get hot and may be here for many more years under your care !

Skull · Post by **Skull** » Thu Apr 18, 2013 6:59 pm

Just spent most of my day putting this thing back together & after checking I didn't have any spare parts left over...............I gave it a kick in the guts....YEEAAHH, oil (black gold, Texas tea):D:D. The blocked pushrods are not blocked anymore, it has a new thermostat, even replaced both radiator hoses (the top hose broke off in my hand anyway!)

Took it for a short test run to check for leaks & it looks good to me, just hoping the head gasket doesn't let go.
Temp gauge sits a little below half way & doesn't budge, it idles better & it may be my imagination but it seems to have more guts when you put the foot down

Going to give it a good run out of town tomorrow.
Will have to check other side & see if some of those are blocked also.
Next part I will be chasing is a new or replacement radiator.

Still have to adjust valve clearances again, I am sure I didn't get them correct on my first attempt. Is there a special tool to be had to make this job a little easier? something that fits over the little 5mm square thingy on the end of the adjusters?...I don't seem to have enough hands to get them correct.

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Thu Apr 18, 2013 8:15 pm

I think that's a 3mm square

There is a special tool for adjusting them, it holds the square with a handle for adjustment and also holds the adjuster bolt still while you tighten the locking nut.

I know they exist, for a Subaru though I don't know.

555Ron · Post by **555Ron** » Thu Apr 18, 2013 8:39 pm

There was a brand new radiator for a brumby in Sydney for $100 on gumtree. It may have been listed under Leone though but it's a good deal if you are near by...

Skull · Post by **Skull** » Thu Apr 18, 2013 9:04 pm

555Ron wrote:There was a brand new radiator for a brumby in Sydney for $100 on gumtree. It may have been listed under Leone though but it's a good deal if you are near by...

Thanks, good work, found it.
About 6 hour round trip for me to pick up. Will post for $50 which is still not bad. For around $200 I can get one & it has 2 years warranty, will have to think about that.

Skull · Post by **Skull** » Thu Apr 18, 2013 9:29 pm

Silverbullet wrote:I think that's a 3mm square There is a special tool for adjusting them, it holds the square with a handle for adjustment and also holds the adjuster bolt still while you tighten the locking nut.

I know they exist, for a Subaru though I don't know.

I measured one this morning with verniers, mine are 5mm square. I went looking for a 5mm OE spanner to use, ended up using a tiny shifter & pointy nose pliers, with the correct tool it would be easy.

I know the tool you are referring to, none of them I have found have the square spanner thingy on them, they all seem to be just slot head screwdriver. Probably very expensive if one did exist.

Skull · Post by **Skull** » Thu Apr 18, 2013 9:36 pm

steptoe wrote: These little EA81's are tough - sort its oiling problem, don't let it get hot and may be here for many more years under your care !

Thanks for the encouraging words Steptoe. I look after all my cars, when they are not in use they are locked under cover in my garage, regardless of their condition.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Fri Apr 19, 2013 5:41 pm

I once bought a spanner for my tool collection - little did I realise how few 13/16" nuts and bolts there are in the world, so...... I cut the open end off and cut my own little 5mm open end into the cut off end for my tappet adjustment. Also got a cheap Indian 12mm open end , ring and ground it thinner to work in tandem with the home made 5mm OE spanner

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Fri Apr 19, 2013 6:11 pm

My memory fails me yet again, all I know is we have a special tiny spanner especially for this job with a big tape patch over one end so it doesn't get lost...could have sworn it was 3mm though...oh well.