L series ea82t surging

ajames · Post by **ajames** » Tue Jun 25, 2013 10:53 pm

I meant to reply before - I don't think I have one - I don't have a cat and couldn't see a O2 wire...

nncoolg · Post by **nncoolg** » Wed Jun 26, 2013 5:20 pm

There was some that had the o2 sensor in the up pipe, well...header, but just below the turbo.

ajames · Post by **ajames** » Wed Jun 26, 2013 6:05 pm

Ah cool, I'll see if I can have a better look over the weekend

ajames · Post by **ajames** » Thu Jul 04, 2013 9:45 pm

Found the O2 sensor - under the turbo... wiring's fine

I tightened the accelerator cable and first thoughts are that its better - the TPS seems fine and within spec.

Next issue is that I can't rev harder than about 5 grand - I think its time to get a vac/boost gauge and a timing light!
compression is fine but somethings still not right with the power delivery

nncoolg · Post by **nncoolg** » Fri Jul 05, 2013 8:37 pm

ajames wrote:Found the O2 sensor - under the turbo... wiring's fine

... try unplugging it

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Fri Jul 05, 2013 10:10 pm

reason behind nn-so-coolg's

suggestion is the ECU should go to an expected open loop mode and not be looking for a signal from the O2 sensor as guidance, and use other internal mapping for an average performance

ajames · Post by **ajames** » Fri Jul 05, 2013 10:23 pm

Haha thanks for the explanation... I'll give it a go.

I tried unplugging the vac advance tube from the dizzy since that's how it was when I got it - still won't rev over 5500 but the turbo seems stronger, I'm wondering if the knock sensor or dizzy might be bung

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sun Jul 07, 2013 12:54 pm

ajames wrote:I tried unplugging the vac advance tube from the dizzy since that's how it was when I got it - still won't rev over 5500 but the turbo seems stronger, I'm wondering if the knock sensor or dizzy might be bung

Dunno about the dizzy - make sure any counter levers are still doing what they should do.

If the knock sensor wasn't working you should be able to check to see if it's within spec and if it's really dodgy the ECU should give you a stored code at the very least!

Cheers

Bennie

ajames · Post by **ajames** » Sun Jul 07, 2013 3:53 pm

Well........

If it wasn't the knock sensor before, it is now!!! I noticed a couple of wires had been melted by something at the back of the motor so decided to cut & crimp on new connectors - I couldn't get the connector off easily but managed to break it IN HALF! I still can't get the connector off even with it removed from the car so now I'm looking for a new one (with connector) if anyone could help me out with one.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Mon Jul 08, 2013 7:57 am

it is the knock sensor now....do you still have the vac advance disconnected ?

The vac advance on the dizzy for the three plug and the turbo Cordia run not just vac advance but also boost retard. I know aaaaalllll about this as mine had a hole in it, so its only function in life was to allow boost pressure LPG vapours flow on through int the cavity inside the dizzy guts, ignite from the spark jump, blow a litle air out the dizzy cap gasket or breather hole allow spark to misfire and blow my LPG air ducting and clamps out onto the road behind me - crippling any further motion until I walked back and gathered up the bits. It allowed two psi boost before it did this. My spare #1 also had a hole a little smaller and allowed me to get to 4 or 5 psi before it was starting to smeeze, a third one was also hopeless. New from Japan fixed it !

ajames · Post by **ajames** » Mon Jul 08, 2013 8:03 am

Haha good times - yeah its still off at the moment, I'm trying to get a new knock sensor or get one off another car that'll fit or even fix the fuxed one

Mitchhsj · Post by **Mitchhsj** » Mon Jul 08, 2013 6:11 pm

all verry intresting.. so my surging was bad through the rev range, it would pull strong then serge-strong-serge and so on when it was strong it was good so i removed the pvr valve altogether and plated it and plugged the bypass pipe that comes from the crank case so now the surging has improved heaps but i have lost 1-2 psi boost. witch is noticeable and the car will start better sometimes.. instead of crap all the time but its still not rite can still feel it jerky through the power, and for a few days there the trottle was staying on and you would rev it quick to drop it back down from 4000rpm to 1000.tps?? anyway my next thing is i have got a bosh 044 fuel pump and 4m of 3/8 fuel line.. would i need a 3/8 return aswell ?

Mitchhsj · Post by **Mitchhsj** » Mon Jul 08, 2013 6:14 pm

oh yea.. my motor was replaced and brand new casing were put on and it doesn't have a knock senior.. and it kinda sounds like a need one now? could have been apart of the problem.. also going to get the injectors serviced and tested

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Tue Jul 09, 2013 7:47 am

Mitch , ya lost boost just by doing that ?. Wonder if you blocked off the fast idle control device air feed to the inlet manifold off the top of the thermostat housing Brittle hose becomes an air / boost leak. I run without, used a rare spares water cap from SCA

Mitchhsj · Post by **Mitchhsj** » Tue Jul 09, 2013 4:49 pm

so the hose that runs in and out of that module onto of the thermostat housing black that off at both ends? do i disconnect the senior wire too. my friend has a sorry gt and he says it has the same sort of think, must be a subaru thing and he has disconnected it..
yes i thought it was strange to have loss of boost

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Wed Jul 10, 2013 8:12 am

Is well worth checking its condition - it is an air bypass for faster idle at cold if it seals correctly. By now they get old , hard, crusty, brittle and may be leaking air. A new hose would be best if it is stuffed. It is hard to get at to see it all over.half inch heater hose may be good replacement to at least try. It may be harder to drive while cold if you block it off. Maybe not in bli bli

Mitchhsj · Post by **Mitchhsj** » Wed Jul 10, 2013 8:53 am

ok great thanks mate..ill try that thinking thats why the idle was creeping up a bit..

ajames · Post by **ajames** » Tue Jul 23, 2013 7:01 pm

Ok, the knock sensor's fixed (replaced), now I can get it timed properly. I think I might change all the vac hoses too as a few of them have been dodgy and I'm keen to get a vac/boost gauge to check that side of things out too

ajames · Post by **ajames** » Wed Jul 24, 2013 8:58 pm

Seems I got some power back by changing the knock sensor

Haven't noticed the surging either - I like this...

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Wed Jul 24, 2013 9:56 pm

ajames wrote:Seems I got some power back by changing the knock sensor

Haven't noticed the surging either - I like this...

That would have been a given if the old one was tested and checked out as toast!

I hope that solves it, but I've got my doubts that it's just a knock sensor that caused the surging issues.

Enjoy the ride now

Cheers

Bennie