? whipper snipper carby ?? Makita RST210 ??

[steptoe]

New one just out of its box, needs assembly and fueling up s- yet to find out how new one goes - like a bought one I suspect . Reading instruction booklet it mentions the operator should check the screws are tight before or after each use ! Whatever happened to the idea of fastening devices such as star/spring washers and thread locker?

Apparently the fuel filter is a felt device. Inspected mine to see it was clean as a whistle. Never been a chance for dirty fuel or stale fuel. A wise old guy I know filters all his power machines fuel through a paper dust mask as it goes in.
I only ever used ethanol free 95, Stihl synthetic? two stroke oil at 50:1 mxed in a clear bottle so could see any crap if there was any to see.

The only thing I suspect is when the trouble started, the idle speed increased noticeably, enough to spin the string line assy. According to instruction I reduced revs to suit - string line unit not spin at idle. Returning th speed screw fixed nothin'

[ajcmbrown]

I only ask because of a brand new Troybilt whipper snipper that my kids bought me for fathers day, out of the box it would start easily enough, but trying to get any revs was a matter of feathering the throttle and then if you got some revs up and tried to cut, it would just die again, obviously not tuned properly from the factory.
I took it to a mower shop for it's "Free Service" 18 months later and told them the issue I was having, picked it up later that afternoon and have never had to touch it since.
The mixture screws are not foreign to me, (raced Go Karts, rebuilt carbs etc) but these screws are so far recessed and no slots in them, just hex heads like allen keys, but no clearance around them to fit anything but a special tool for adjustments. I keep meaning to buy one of those little buggars, since my Husqvarna chainsaws use the same system to prevent "unauthorised" adjustments.
This Troybilt whipper snipper has been absolutely reliable in the 7 years that I have abused....I mean used it on my farm. My driveway is 320 metres long with anything from serrated tussock, briar or African lovegrass, and this thing just keeps on going!
The 32cc McCulloch stays in the garage.

[steptoe]

Noted. Test drive before I actually need it.

I thort Troybilt was a US only brand 7 years ago !
I use a bumpfeedless sytem for the snip cord - The Little Joey as some were calling it, The Little Juey as once sold in Bunnings - is made form tough plastic and has a screw on head to jam in 13" long cutter cord. Don't like bumpfeed ever since i sprayed my old Ryobi's with silicone spray inside.
It is a screw on adaptor.

Interesting to note the different mixture screw look Mr Brown.

Tried as I could but not get tune specs from Makita or those links found above.

This Makita has a strange rotary throttle, I guess it needs to be open a certain 'number drill' in cold, another 'number drill once choke button is set - weird in itself - cannot see how the red button steps up extra revs . Once set - something else holds throttle open more, but not it. The agent suggested it was a lift of some kind on the rotary spindle.

How is the EA81 in the trailer going ?

[ajcmbrown]

The EA in the trailer is a runner! I still cant believe how simple this thing was to set up and get running, power to + on coil, and distributor, ground to - on the coil, power to starter motor and jump wire to the starter relay, fired up without hesitation despite the carb flooding fuel everywhere.

The Troybilt came from Bummings way back then, however nobody there wanted to know about it when it would not run properly. Lucky to bump into one staff member who informed me about the free first service, and my problems were solved.
Mine still has a bump feed but I use Honda line in it since it cuts well without breaking every two minutes, it has a square cross section with four edges and is infinitely better than the rubbish that most dept stores sell.
The rotary throttle is interesting, like a rotary drum? Sounds like it could be more reliable than the butterfly valve arrangement which are prone to wear on the edges and the shaft which introduces air leaks.
I will try to get a pic of the mixture screws that I mentioned.
Tony

[steptoe]

Yeah AJ, check out the link in blue cleverly provided by Pitrack in post #13 ( I know Greg, said I had important stuff to do, in here for more important stuff ) the first link, shows a throttle cam on top bit of carby, the cylinder shapr below with a cylinder cut out on its other axis, allows air entry. Looking further to read part names, my print out was shocking....

[steptoe]

Just having a quiet chuckle to self on the prices of the indiviual parts. Would not want to make one up from new parts, tis for sure! Hundred pounds for a control lever assy, 90 pounds for the coil .....

[ajcmbrown]

I see what you mean, I have never seen a carb like that before. Looks like a good design though.
If you built that thing from the spare parts list it would cost a couple of grand......the worlds most expensive whipper snipper!
If I can manage to video the EA starting, I will post in the thread. Should be interesting though, filming and getting it started at the same time, maybe I just need to find a rest for my camera.
I hope your new machine starts and runs as it should, no reason why it shouldn't. I think I was just unlucky.
Cheers, Tony

[Subydoug]

Youl probably find that your little walbro will need a retune every few uses, especially as the weather changes. Ive used them of gas model aircraft. The last thing you want is your motor cutting out so It needs to be pretty well in tune . Next time you have it out. get a little flat blade screwdriver and have a tinker. Biggest thing with walbro carbies that people forget is the main jet AND the idle jet both supply fuel after about 1/3 throttle. What I usually do is get it running. Put it flat out and set your high speed screw just until the motor RPM peaks, Slowly back off the throttle until it starts 4 stroking, hold it at that point and adjust your low speed jet until it runs smooth again. Back to flat out and readjust the fast jet. Repeat until you get no 4 stroking in the mid range right down to idle. You may have to adjust throttle end points and maybe richen up to get it idling again, and unless some of the internal parts of the walbro are matched right for the motor, you may need to richen it up to stop it bogging down when you slam it flat out. Every motor is a little different, best to just have a tinker and see. A nice lean idle will make it very hard to start just like any carby. Id also recommend when you first start messing around with it to make large adjustments, like 1/4 turns. They will give notable changes in engine running patterns. Save the bee's dick changes until its running near perfect.

Regards

Doug

[tony]

had similar problem with the poesaw i bought. used it several times over a few months then left it standing with fuel in it then would not start, tried everything, stripped carby, cleaned etc, had plenty of spark, then in desperation put new spark plug in. could not get exatly? the same plug but got one near enough. started first pull.