Doug's EA81 Rebuild stuff.

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Wed Oct 16, 2013 9:24 pm

Toonga, Smoke is bluish white. Deffinately oil because I can smell it with the window down. Leads have been on the car as long as Ive had it. They test ok with the meter, but I have been putting off getting new ones. It was "just something else"

. They were pretty new when I got the car though. So was the rotor and cap. Id say someone was trying to fix the shocking fuel economy before they sold it.

SilverBullet, hmmm......I would say sooty more then oily. The plug isnt wet when I pull it out and it shows signs of arking at the tip. Its more of a dry black coating and with some carby cleaner and a rag I can generally clean it up. Here is a pic I took the other day with all the plugs in their respected places.

Could also be crappy valves.....maybe.
I think If I get up early and pull my finger out I should be able to get it done. I did the engine swap over the period of a weekend and that was just kicking back, little bit here, little bit there. Its when Unexpected things turn up that it takes time.

Paul, Yeah got a stoich gauge, usually got a beady eye on it most of the time. Its how I jetted my car. Here are the numbers.

Idle, around 13.5-1

Coasting with low man pressure, IE no load but high revs, around 15-1 depending on the load.

Constant load not accelerating, 14 -1

WOT 13-1

Decelerating, usually goes back to 13.5-1, but if I gently apply the slightest of throttle it will completely lean out off the gauge.

Pretty rich across the band but it runs good and with the fuel economy I got today Im happy. Paul, fuel consumption is good because I drive like a nana

. Old vortex is better but I suppose thats to be expected from EFI.

Lets just hope the Engine gods see fit to smile down apon me as I strip it down

.

Hehe just thinking now, whats the bet cyl #3 is actually OK and the others are the ones with issues

Regards

Doug

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Wed Oct 16, 2013 9:30 pm

So Doug, was that the #3 plug that was black, now been run in #1 and still came out black? If this is correct, then to me it's a dud plug or HT lead

Post by **TOONGA** » Wed Oct 16, 2013 9:49 pm

The plug from number 3 is firing intermittently or with a very weak spark. I would be looking at trying another lead and checking the dizzy cap for cracks or other problems around lead 3, before pulling the engine apart.

Unburnt fuel will smell very oily in the exhaust after it has half burnt in the cylinder.

TOONGA

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Wed Oct 16, 2013 10:01 pm

It isnt the lead or plug. Before leaving work thisarvo I took both the plug and lead from #1 and put it in #3. So if it was the lead #1's spark plug would be black. However when I pulled both plugs out when I got home, plug #1 was fine and #3 was black again. So the issue is either further up the chain, like a rotor cap, or something internally with #3 is playing up, like valves or rings.

Toonga, deffinately Oil mate. Ive smelt unburnt fuel and oil and Im gonna say with 100% confidence that its oil coming out of my pipe.

Some promising news though, Paul, I did the flush and oil change. I used Nulon brand engine flush and I put some Castrol Edge titanium 5W-30 fully synthetic into it. I went light weight to try and induce some different behaviour to gain more knowledge.......and it was on special

. I was going to wait till morning to take it for a drive but I had to go shopping. Long story short, I warmed it up, flogged the shit outa it to the shops and back and I didnt smell One whiff of oil fumes at all. I couldn’t see very well so all bets are off but tomorrow I will know. Also I noted a considerable gain in performance thru the dyno butt......Very suprising.

Needless to say if this slows the oil burning down to a crawl I owe you a big sloppy kiss

Regards

Doug

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Thu Oct 17, 2013 6:56 am

off topic - brand and part number of your plugs Doug ?

You got a pretty rich idle there - for idle, and decel should go higher numbers (lean) surely ? Is that decel foot off the pedal and your vac gauge goes high to about 20 inHg or more ?I used to get off the scale 29:1 on decels, on LPG anyway

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Thu Oct 17, 2013 9:17 am

Plugs are NGK BKR6EYA. When I went to get plugs the range was pretty limited. Engine ran fine on these so I didn't think anything of it.

Thats actually leaner then where I got following Webers Lean best idle. I did think about it recently and It might be worth swapping to straight vac signal instead of ported for the disty and red-tuning the idle. Higher ignition advance at idle will bump up the RPM allowing me to close the throttle plate and wind in the mixture screw a little more.....may tinker with that tonight.

Idle is ~21 inHg

Foot off decelerating is around 26 inHg

Pretty sure all carbies go rich on decel. That's what gives them the great decel popping and crackling in the zorst if its a bit shot or free flowing. When you think about it, The butterfly shuts so Its drawing off of the idle circuit regulating at the same ratio as idle.
If I put some throttle on, till the mani is at around 20 inHg it stops drawing as much from the idle circuit and starts flowing around the butterfly, usually when the progressive jets and accelerator pump provide fuel on take-off, so it leans out.

Well thats sort of what I thinks going on there. By basic understanding of how carbies work. EFI is freaking easy. Just a tap that turns on and off

.

Regards

Doug

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Thu Oct 17, 2013 1:54 pm

Done some running around today. Chuffed a little bit of smoke in the morning. I haven't seen any smoke for the last 10km's

. Still smells a little bit but doesn't sting the eyes. Huge improvement. Maybe synthetic oil is really better??

Il watch the level for the next few days, see what it does. Still gotta get some of that beachocilin in it

. Might go Yeagarup way Paul, suss it out for the subies

.

Regards

Doug

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Thu Oct 17, 2013 4:20 pm

Sting the yes ?? That is rich mixture or unburnt fuel ! Got that eye burn when helping a dude with his MR2 problem....

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Thu Oct 17, 2013 6:50 pm

Hehehe, nah Jonno, not as bad as rich sting. Just rank. 100% oil mate

.
Il pull the plug on cyl #3 of my old motor and see if its black two. Same leads and disty and cap and rotor button.

Regards

Doug

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Thu Oct 17, 2013 7:45 pm

Sorry fella's just realised Ive been talking crap. I was referencing the cylinders from their firing order, not their actual designated cylinder number

.

Soooo, cyl #2, (as labeled on the block) is the one thats got the black plug.

Anyway.....back to present. I pulled the plug out of my old motor from cyl #2 (fires 3rd) and this is what it looks like,

Unfortunately not black like the one out of my new motor. So this pretty much means that Cyl #2 has something wrong internally. Guess Im pulling her apart then.

Regards

Doug

Post by **TOONGA** » Thu Oct 17, 2013 8:15 pm

Have you checked the valve clearances Recently?

TOONGA

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Thu Oct 17, 2013 8:25 pm

Maybe 600 or 700km's ago. Comp test was good too.....

Doug

Post by **TOONGA** » Thu Oct 17, 2013 8:30 pm

Yeah but if the valves in cylinder 2 aren't opening to the desired specifications it could be causing the problem as could stuffed valve springs.

Easier to check them than pull the motor apart, especially if the compression is good.

TOONGA

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Thu Oct 17, 2013 8:48 pm

Fair enough, just checked them on head 2/4. 0.2mm on the intake and 0.25mm exhaust. Maybe a bit tight on the exhaust.

Sorry, cant check the spring rate tonight

Regards

Doug

Post by **TOONGA** » Thu Oct 17, 2013 9:00 pm

where did you get the figures for your clearances from?

gregorys

cold

inlet should be between 0.23mm and 0.27mm

oultlet should be between 0.33mm and 0.37mm

EA81 FSM

cold

inlet 0.25mm

outlet 0.35mm

I would check your springs and re-set all of you clearances then re time the engine before you do anything else.

TOONGA

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Thu Oct 17, 2013 9:08 pm

Subydoug wrote:Needless to say if this slows the oil burning down to a crawl I owe you a big sloppy kiss

I'll except American Honey instead

Subydoug wrote:Still gotta get some of that beachocilin in it . Might go Yeagarup way Paul, suss it out for the subies

Wait for me and the yellow beast.. we know how these 2 cars love to stick together

As for the valve clearances.. did you try what I said the other day and open them right up, so we can be 100% sure they are closing correctly? Like I said, they will make some noise but this might reduce the smell.

I still think the dose of beachocilin will work best

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Thu Oct 17, 2013 9:13 pm

Yeah from what I recall, when I first set them they were according to the FSM and thay were really noisy so I tightened them up after about 200km's. I can wind them back out no worries but Il have to do it in the morning because the motors still a bit hot at the moment.

Doug

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Thu Oct 17, 2013 9:22 pm

No worries, consider it done

.

Paul, Just now I can grab the rocker arm and rock it, so there is clearance between the valve stems and arm. That valve isnt coming any further back.

Talked to my brother earlier and I called it off. He's coming up to Perth so Il probably be out sailing if Im not tearing down the engine. I may hold off yet. It puffed out a little puff of smoke when I first took off thisarvo but other then that its been clear skies. Il watch the oil level for a few days and see what goes.

Regards

Doug

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Fri Oct 18, 2013 6:54 am

Need to reretitle the thread to Dougs EA81 rerebuild ??

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Fri Oct 18, 2013 9:17 am

No worries Doug, I've found in the past that valves can become 'sticky' if there is not enough clearance, just because there is some, doesn't mean it's enough. I don't think this is the issue with the burning oil but it might be a contributing factor. If you are pulling off the heads, can you remove the valve springs and double check the guides.

Remember you'll need to have this all done this weekend, as I'll be back next week and hopefully (and that's a really big hopefully) that busted CV shaft is fixed. As the beast is still loaded from last trip away. I might even email the CV mob and find out what's the go with it.