Run Brumby on Nulon 15-40 Diesel Engine Oil?

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Gazza01
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Run Brumby on Nulon 15-40 Diesel Engine Oil?

Post by Gazza01 » Fri Nov 29, 2013 11:43 am

I have three Vehs.Two Petrol Hilux's which I have run on 15w-40 Diesel engine oil since new and they have Way over 200000ks. I've now decided to run my Brumby on 15-40 Diesel Engine Oil. Its not an oil users on 20-50 normal oil and has compressions of 1125-1127-1123-1125 kPa on the 4 Cylinders. I checked with my manual and see the compression on later models from 81 to 87 and on is 1128 kPa. I'm gonna try the Nulon 15-40 Diesel oil. I know its a detergent oil and have heard a few fors and againsts, but mainly on the detergent issue. Any u blokes out there have any ideas for or against.

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Post by Wooster » Mon Dec 09, 2013 4:00 pm

How's she running?

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Post by M0rpH » Tue Dec 10, 2013 10:57 am

Whats a Vehs? :confused:
91 Leone wagon, body and suspension lift. Currently collecting parts for rebuild.
Currently rebuilding EA82.

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Post by M0rpH » Tue Dec 10, 2013 10:58 am

Doh!
Vehicles?
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Post by Gazza01 » Wed Dec 11, 2013 2:24 pm

Mate running really quiet, just worried that the 10-40 diesel oil might be to light or cause some unforeseen probs. I'm going to do an oil pressure test to see if it comes up to the required 50-64 psi -3.5-4.5 KG/CM2 at 2000rpm's.

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Post by Gazza01 » Sat Dec 14, 2013 10:55 am

Fitted up oil pressure gauge together with Tacho. Started engine and on idle the oil pressure gauge immediately went to 60psi and levelled out to about 50psi. The vehicle was idling at 750rpm. As the temperature gauge increased the Oil Pressure gauge slowly dropped to 29psi. I brought the Tacho up to 2000 rpm and the oil gauge went back up to 60 psi. i then went back to idle at 750 rpm and the pressure gauge slowly dropped to a low of 20 psi. At this point the temperature gauge was at half way and I brought the motor back up to 2000 rpm and the gauge registered at 55 psi, then going back to idle again the oil gauge dropped to a low of 15 psi. I'm concerned that running the motor on 15w-40 diesel oil might not be good idea. Maybe 20w-50 mineral oil. Anyone out there with any ideas.

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Post by steptoe » Sat Dec 14, 2013 6:56 pm

Give Nulon techies a call - always find them answer call quickly and know their product, and don't talk crap. I run my EA81s on non diesel 20w50 and EA82T's on 15w40 non diesel - just not also run an oil presure gauge :)

Think the oil tolerances be similar for them EA's

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Post by RSR 555 » Sun Dec 15, 2013 2:45 am

I don't understand.. why not just use the correct oil for the engine?
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Post by steptoe » Sun Dec 15, 2013 5:47 am

ummm ???someone trying to improve on things not unusual in here and he buys one oil, does all cars in his fleet ?

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Gazza01
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Post by Gazza01 » Sun Dec 15, 2013 7:14 am

Yea if I can use the one oil on all vehicles saves going out buying separate oil for just one vehicle. I think the 15-40 Diesel may be too light for the Brumby. It had way over 400000ks on clock when I bought it. Got TOP compression, but doesnt mean they did the bearings when and if they replaced the rings. When it idles at 750 rpm for about 5 mins pressure drops to 29 psi then settles down on 15 psi, but comes good to 55 psi at 2000 rpm. Still I think I'll go back to the old 20 -50 that was originally in it and do a test.

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Post by Gazza01 » Sun Dec 15, 2013 7:29 am

The problem with doing all these oil pressure tests is dependant on the belief that your oil pump is functioning correctly too. Its all a bit of guess work on a vehicle with over 400ks. I guess the first question that should be considered is how do u test your oil pump for efficiency. Could go buy 20w-50 diesel oil and test her. Ive got a bit of a fixation about alleged benefits of diesel oils. Motors just seem to last a hell of a lot longer using diesel oil and one of my petrol Toyota vans has way over 550000ks using diesel oil and never been re-ringed.

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Post by nncoolg » Sun Dec 15, 2013 8:24 am

I knew a guy who ran 'caterpillar oil' in his EA82T and swore by it, I think it was Penrite, not sure what weight though...
The trading corner : the stuff that I need ATM -
# Vortex Main Dash Surround / Bezel ANY COLOUR,
# Vortex Radio, # RHD Vortex 4speed auto digital dash,
# RH-Side parking (86+) Vortex wiper transmission,
# EA82 AWD 4EAT,
If you have them please PM me :cool:

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Post by Gazza01 » Mon Dec 16, 2013 5:45 am

Yes replaced the oil with Castrol GTX 20w.50 oil. (On Special at Auto Barn for $9.99 reduced by $17.00). Put oil pressure tester on and Tacho on. Oil pressure immediately came up to 60psi at 750 rpm idle and after about 5 mins and tempertaure at 1/4 mark it dropped back to 50 psi. Brought Tacho up to 2000 rpm and it shot up to the 60 mark. probably would have dropped back to below 50 psi on 750 rpm idle if I waited for temperature to reach half way mark. That'l do me 20w-50 from now on anything lower seens to nail biting for me.

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Post by littlewhiteute » Mon Dec 16, 2013 5:52 am

Gazza01 wrote:I have three Vehs.Two Petrol Hilux's which I have run on 15w-40 Diesel engine oil since new and they have Way over 200000ks. I've now decided to run my Brumby on 15-40 Diesel Engine Oil. Its not an oil users on 20-50 normal oil and has compressions of 1125-1127-1123-1125 kPa on the 4 Cylinders. I checked with my manual and see the compression on later models from 81 to 87 and on is 1128 kPa. I'm gonna try the Nulon 15-40 Diesel oil. I know its a detergent oil and have heard a few fors and againsts, but mainly on the detergent issue. Any u blokes out there have any ideas for or against.
I find it hard to believe you have compression pressures that even at 200000km. Let alone with that sort of accuracy.

You'll find it will become an oil burner and a leaker running an oil like that. Stay with a mineral oil of 20w50.
Regards

Gary ;)

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Post by steptoe » Mon Dec 16, 2013 8:26 pm

those sales designed to draw in the crowds for an oil that really only suits pre 1990 models are good for the likes of us. I stock up like nobodies business :) as those prices are similar to what I used to pay 30 years ago for Valvoline XLD when it was sold in Bill O'Brien Blue plastic containers !

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Post by RSR 555 » Fri Dec 20, 2013 12:30 am

Ok. I understand now but I agree with Gary.. stick to mineral if you want protection. I had a H6 Outback that had over 500,000kms on it to that had never been re-ringed but never used detergent oil in it. I guess it's how the engine is looked after and service intervals.
You know you are getting old when the candles on your birthday cake start to cost more than the cake itself.

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Post by NachaLuva » Fri Dec 20, 2013 2:57 pm

RSR 555 wrote:Ok. I understand now but I agree with Gary.. stick to mineral if you want protection. I had a H6 Outback that had over 500,000kms on it to that had never been re-ringed but never used detergent oil in it. I guess it's how the engine is looked after and service intervals.
I should be using a detergent oil for my EJ20J?
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Post by RSR 555 » Mon Dec 30, 2013 2:15 pm

NachaLuva wrote:I should be using a detergent oil for my EJ20J?
No.. sorry detergent oils are used in Diesel engines to clean out the soot left behind from such high compression.

Use only high quality/grade mineral oils in your Foz. I'd also recommend changing oils after every 5,000kms if you do lots of 4WDing or towing.
You know you are getting old when the candles on your birthday cake start to cost more than the cake itself.

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Post by NachaLuva » Tue Dec 31, 2013 12:05 am

Thanks Paul. I got some Penrite 5W40 semi-synthetic. So you dont like full synthetic?
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Post by RSR 555 » Tue Dec 31, 2013 12:02 pm

NachaLuva wrote:Thanks Paul. I got some Penrite 5W40 semi-synthetic. So you dont like full synthetic?
Semi or Fully Synthetics are great for modern engines when they are new. Subaru Oil is a synthetic blend and works but personally I use Motul Oils. I used to use BP Visco 5000 in my original RS Turbo and couldn't believe the difference it made. It was quieter and run smoother but after I've started using Motul I've never gone back. Penrite is used by a lot of different companies and all claim to have good responses, so as long as it meets the grade specs of your engine, then go for it.

Like any oils, the longer you leave them in the engine, the more damage you'll do. So the best way to protect your engine is to change it at the required intervals. IMO engines that work harder, i.e. 4WDing, Towing, hotter temp areas, etc.. really need their oil changed much earlier than listed. I recommend 5,000kms oil changes for these engines.
You know you are getting old when the candles on your birthday cake start to cost more than the cake itself.

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