
EA82M is in the 'bay
- steptoe
- Master Member
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EA82M is in the 'bay
And that is about it so far, need to drop the exhaust from the gearbox hanger so I don't have same goof up as when EA81TC came out
thought it was clutch related catching

- steptoe
- Master Member
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- Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: 14 miles outside Gotham City
Ah POOP!!
Starting to wonder if there is a chassis rail difference between early and late MY.
When I did a clutch on my 92 Brumby, I did a test fit of the EA82 by dropping it in without mounts, but bolted to gearbox 4 spd, saw clearances of 3 and 4mm either side without any reshaping of the chassis rails, took pics to show the world via T'sunami posting them up for me.
Now, this 84 Brum with mounts is hanging , bolted up to the 5 speed and getting stuck rear of dizzy side rocker against chassis rail
and the sun is closing in on me making me crankier.
I'm about to remove engine mounts to see what I can get. Maybe I need to loosen off those engine cross member bolts and get some correction going on there.
Eight years in the planning to go EA82T and this speed bump comes along .....
just as well it is not the EA82T trying to go in just yet, just as well the EA81 is still handy - clutch wear in 150,000 odd km is minimal on the friction plate.
Nice that the clutch lined up first time so nice, where is that BFH ??
Starting to wonder if there is a chassis rail difference between early and late MY.
When I did a clutch on my 92 Brumby, I did a test fit of the EA82 by dropping it in without mounts, but bolted to gearbox 4 spd, saw clearances of 3 and 4mm either side without any reshaping of the chassis rails, took pics to show the world via T'sunami posting them up for me.
Now, this 84 Brum with mounts is hanging , bolted up to the 5 speed and getting stuck rear of dizzy side rocker against chassis rail

I'm about to remove engine mounts to see what I can get. Maybe I need to loosen off those engine cross member bolts and get some correction going on there.
Eight years in the planning to go EA82T and this speed bump comes along .....
just as well it is not the EA82T trying to go in just yet, just as well the EA81 is still handy - clutch wear in 150,000 odd km is minimal on the friction plate.
Nice that the clutch lined up first time so nice, where is that BFH ??
- El_Freddo
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That's a possibility. The "series 1" L series' floor pan is a different shape at the base of the firewall to that of the "series 2" L series.
Anything is possible - maybe they found a bit more strength or the tooling changed for what ever reason... Thinking about it maybe the MYs were made using the same chassis rail press as the L series, but they were closer together as the MYs are, that difference in shape changed that area you talk of.
It'd be interesting to chase up to see if there really is a difference between the early and late brumby's chassic rails.
Cheers
Bennie
Anything is possible - maybe they found a bit more strength or the tooling changed for what ever reason... Thinking about it maybe the MYs were made using the same chassis rail press as the L series, but they were closer together as the MYs are, that difference in shape changed that area you talk of.
It'd be interesting to chase up to see if there really is a difference between the early and late brumby's chassic rails.
Cheers
Bennie
- steptoe
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Muss be talkin' through my sweaty end..... just got mounts off and lowered her back in there - fits nice
Just think the engine mounts to mounting plate need a little elongation or will try loose mounts first to juggle in, see if I can get it in, then nip things up, or fit eng mounts to x mem first, bolt mounts to block casing. Pushed out of shed to shade more important stuff, though was doing OK outside with cheap car cover, large floor rug with sheets of kitchen foil pegged in place, breeze picking up from the west
, an erikkson juss flew over ....storm brewing. May as well go test drive my blow up valve on the gLta - really teach self a lesson in this heat if it hiccupped 
Just, if anyone reading this and gets any ideas , just filing down a flute of the dizzy side ocker cover up the back to flush with normal surface could mean a lot of difference before trying to install



Just, if anyone reading this and gets any ideas , just filing down a flute of the dizzy side ocker cover up the back to flush with normal surface could mean a lot of difference before trying to install
- Gannon
- Senior Member
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Whats the EA82M?
BTW the 4.7% sugar in milk is in the form of lactose, different to the sucrose found in table sugar.
BTW the 4.7% sugar in milk is in the form of lactose, different to the sucrose found in table sugar.
Current rides: 2016 Mitsubishi Triton GLS & 2004 Forester X
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
------------------------------------------
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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- steptoe
- Master Member
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- Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: 14 miles outside Gotham City
To quote the late Julius Sumner-Miller "I'm glad you asked"Gannon wrote:Whats the EA82M?
BTW the 4.7% sugar in milk is in the form of lactose, different to the sucrose found in table sugar.

or was that Deane Hutton ?
Well, there is the EA81 - plain jane version, the EA81S twin carb, twin port, so i suppose a pair of twins on a plain jane EA81 becomes an EA81TC - the EA82M - M is for Mongrel, bitsa this, and bitsa that

I have seen a working EA82T is a Brumby, know another older fella who had a Brumby or two, one ran EA82 in it. Never paid attention to chassis rails on the first one, only heard about the second.....
lactose, sucrose, fructose - think they all can make ya fat if no burn off the energy consumed

- steptoe
- Master Member
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- Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 10:00 am
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little bit of copy/paste
Woo HOO!
Success ! And, someone call the Guinness Book of Records, done the spline align fit nice first try second time in a row - ever !! The secret might be in wire brushing the input shaft splines, some nice red Timken wheel bearing grease and a cut off input shaft aligning tool
OK, looks like the secret is in at least a few things.
A test fit to see where the soft chassis rails are looking for a mild pummel,
second was that I separated the metal mounting plate from the engine mount rubber, worked out to elongate to the lower side of each plate to give less distance between the bottom member studs AND
bolted the babies to the block/bellhousing with about 3mm freeplay short of tight - what this did was allow the studs to naturally fall closer to each other due to gravity and the 'balance' of a free hanging engine mont/plate combo. Just lowered the donk by block'n'tackle so easy was not funny - they went in, aligned without human intervention. Pulled it out again off the engine cross member to try it again (and coz I forgot that flywheel 'inspecton' plate below between engine and gearbox
)
I now have about 5mm clearance both chassis rails - heaps ! Might also be partly due to me filing the fin/flutes down to flush with the main body of the dizzy side rocker cover, and a little off the turbo side. Also discovered I forget the water plug for the turbo side head, given she is NA at the moment. Just had a thought...I could have retained the water hose off the thermostat housing, normally to turbo- direct it to an extra coolant cooler and back to the head ! Actually water flows other way .....?
might as well use size 48 while it is there :P
Just as well this engine in out thing is sorted coz I ain't got any clutch pedal 
Woo HOO!
Success ! And, someone call the Guinness Book of Records, done the spline align fit nice first try second time in a row - ever !! The secret might be in wire brushing the input shaft splines, some nice red Timken wheel bearing grease and a cut off input shaft aligning tool

OK, looks like the secret is in at least a few things.
A test fit to see where the soft chassis rails are looking for a mild pummel,
second was that I separated the metal mounting plate from the engine mount rubber, worked out to elongate to the lower side of each plate to give less distance between the bottom member studs AND
bolted the babies to the block/bellhousing with about 3mm freeplay short of tight - what this did was allow the studs to naturally fall closer to each other due to gravity and the 'balance' of a free hanging engine mont/plate combo. Just lowered the donk by block'n'tackle so easy was not funny - they went in, aligned without human intervention. Pulled it out again off the engine cross member to try it again (and coz I forgot that flywheel 'inspecton' plate below between engine and gearbox

I now have about 5mm clearance both chassis rails - heaps ! Might also be partly due to me filing the fin/flutes down to flush with the main body of the dizzy side rocker cover, and a little off the turbo side. Also discovered I forget the water plug for the turbo side head, given she is NA at the moment. Just had a thought...I could have retained the water hose off the thermostat housing, normally to turbo- direct it to an extra coolant cooler and back to the head ! Actually water flows other way .....?
might as well use size 48 while it is there :P


- RSR 555
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- Location: ATM... stuck in Rockingham
My uncle martin has a machine.. hope that helps
You know you are getting old when the candles on your birthday cake start to cost more than the cake itself.
RSR Performance
Home of the 'MURTAYA' in Oz
Subaru Impreza WRX based Sportscar
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Disclaimer: Not my website but hyperlink here to Subaru workshop manuals
RSR Performance
Home of the 'MURTAYA' in Oz
Subaru Impreza WRX based Sportscar
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Disclaimer: Not my website but hyperlink here to Subaru workshop manuals